JGSP28DEN2WW General Electric Range - Instructions

Could not have been simpler. Burner head dropped into place and was held in place by gravity. Not possible for part to go in incorrectly.

I called Sears Repair to do the work. Glad I did because there's a lot more than just unscrewing screws...had to use the Dremel because the manufacture stripped one of the screws in assembly that was attached to the ignition part that connects to the burner...

I opened oven and pushed oven rack inside.

Easily glide in.

remove two bolts in on sensor and slip thru back un plug and reverse to put in

Ordered by phone parts & very pleased with all of transaction.

Instead of trying to remove ignitor while mounted to burner, I removed burner/ignitor assembly by detaching it from the oven frame and pulling the ignitor/burner assembly out so connector cleared the access hole. Disconnected and removed whole assembly. Then had easy access to the mounting screws. Removed screws by first spraying threads with WD 40 and waiting. Screws were oxidized so they were damaged when backing them out, as were the threaded mounting holes in the burner ignitor bracket. The screws are not sheet metal as noted in other posts, but rather are 10-32 machine screws. I chased the ignitor mounting bracket threads, then remounted the ignitor with 10-32, 3/8's, cap head, stainless bolts with a stainless star washer (available at any ACE hardware or other similar store) -- that way you don't have to tighten up so tight (just snug them up) -- unless you expect an earthquake every other week. The stainless screws helps retard the corrosion brought on by high heat and any moisture that settles on the bolt threads as the system cools and with subsequent starts.

Directtions were by diagram only, no written instructions. Drawing was small and difficult to follow but the repair itself was easy.

Pull stove forward to access back. Remove center metal panel, 6 screws with 1/4" nut driver. Disconnect igniter connector. Measure resistance, it should be less than 1 ohm. Obtain new igniter. Test new igniter, 0.30 ohms. Remove oven door, see care and cleaning section of owner's manual. Remove burner cover, 2 screws with 1/4" nut driver. Remove two screws holding igniter. Aside: This is the second igniter to be replaced in this stove. The last one was exactly two years ago. Both times a screw snapped. With a small 5" vise grip the leading edge of the screw could be walked out. This time the two screws were replaced with 6-32 x 3/8" hex socket cap screws, split lock washer s under the screw head, and hex nuts holding the igniter in place. Note: All hardware was stainless steel. The burner cover was replaced. Oven door remounted. Igniter connected. Broiler turned on, it ignited. Center metal panel replaced. Stove moved into its nook.

Removed oven door. Removed 2 screws from heat sensor on rear upper wall of oven. Pulled unit out to access rear of unit. Removed six screws on shield on back of unit. Dis connected heat sensor wire and pulled old sensor through from inside of oven. Feed wire of new sensor through from inside and plug in. Everything in reverse. I also had the gas(propane) company come out and check the pressure coming out of the "low pres." regulator. It was low, they changed the regulator.

Disconnect the range from the mains. Open the door. Remove the single screw holding the temperature sensor - this is located on the back wall on center and is screwed to the broiler mounting plate. Remove the four screws holding the boiler element and allow it to hang down on the wire; this exposes a space to feed the wire through later. Now move to the back of the range and remove the six screws that hold the central cover plate. Now push the insulation to up out of the way and you can disconnect the temperature sensor, pull it out through front, insert the new one and connect it. Reassemble in the reverse order. Mine worked perfectly!

This was and always will be an easy fix, all I have to do is get my ice pick and pick the broken rubber part stuck in the hole if it does not break clean and fall out. Not much more I can say about this simple problem.

After reading reviews about corroded screws causing difficult removal I sprayed penetrating oil prior to installing replacement part. The oven doesn't need to be pulled out to fix. Just carefully pull wires through hole until the locking plug is visible & swap out. Very easy repair.

Replaced old burner element with new, easy

Really easy fix. Unplug oven. With a 5/16 nut driver take the 5 screws out of the center long tin cover and remove. Unplug little white temperature sensor plug located between broil heating element. Open oven door and remove one screw holding temp. sensor using same nut driver and simply pull out old sensor. Install new sensor. It's that easy. No more f2 been working like a champ!!!