JGBP33DEM4CC General Electric Range - Instructions

took nut driver to remove the old and replaced with new. simple.

Unplug the range from its wall socket to avoid electric shock. The various range parts that support a pot or frypan are easily lifted off their perches, exposing the small white igniter. The only moderately difficult aspect is wiggling the igniter out of its retainer. The electric wire leading into it then can be pulled out and fed into the new igniter with a push. Replace igniter in its retainer, then replace the range parts you removed to expose the igniter and plug the range back into the wall socket. Piece of cake.

Simple swap and go.Several wires had different locations but every thing was marked well on both panels.Did one wire at a time.Took about 45min from pulling out oven to pushing back in.Just wish I had known about your site years ago.

Removed old gasket, did need to use pliers. However, it was easy. The new gasket just snapped in place ...super easy.

When turning on the oven, I could see the ignitor red hot but it would not ignite the burner. I ordered the pair of new ignitor and burner tube. Upon removal of the burner tube, I saw a large hole in the tube where the center of the ignitor is located, clearly in need of replacement. Unlike some other ovens, the connector on the new ignitor was the exact fit for my oven (Hotpoint RGB745BEA7WH). After access to the tube, the replacement took less than 10 minutes not including watching about 3 youtube videos on how to actually do the replacement prior. You should turn the gas and electric off but ooops, I forgot. I was shocked at how easy this was!

Remove the warming drawer entirely. Remove all five nuts securing the valve and regulator assembly. Loosen (do not remove the nuts entirely) the burner assembly itself to give some wiggle room above the valve and regulator assembly. Also remove the single screw that holds the "collar" in place just above the gas outlet that services the oven burner. This should provide the margin of room you need to remove the valve and regulator assembly because it's a tight space. Working entirely in this cramped space (the warming drawer) will take time and patience. Don't drop any screws because you might create a whole load of more work for yourself. Loosen the brass nuts holding the gas lines in place. Then you have to maneovre the old equipment out. Just reverse all the steps to install the new equipment. Apply Harvey's to the brass nuts and re-attach the gas lines BEFORE you firmly attach the equipment using the five nuts. Don't tighten the brass parts all the way, just hand tight at first. Re-attach the equipment using the five nuts, then tighten up the brass parts with a wrench. Don't over tighten. Re-secure the screws that hold the burner in place. Then test the equipment. If all good, wait for the oven to cool, then do a final check that all the screws are firmly in place. Voila.

slid the old ones out and slid the new ones in. done

First I removed the broiler from the bottom of the oven, then pulled the oven way from the wall to unplug it. I then removed the two screws that hold the igniter element in place. Ironically, the plug GE manufactures is reversed so i had to strip the plug and go end and reverse the wires to attach them to the oven. I used ceramic wire attachments as plastic would surely have melted. Replaced the screws, replaced the broilers, plugged it in, replaced against the wall and it fired up.

My son took out the old burner bar and there was a hole burnt right through it. I ordered the part on Weds night and was surprised when we received it so quickly on Fri morning. He had no trouble at all - just removed the old igniter and bar and replaced it with the new one. Nothing needed cut or spliced - perfect match. Now I can bake again!!!

bought new panel and installed and looking @ wire connections from old control, I'm very much mechanically inclined , so was a breeze for me, but non handy people may not know how to disassemble the control panel without not having an idea how it's made. I'm a "mr fix it", "jack of all trades" kinda guy and am proud of it.

One of the initial two screws for the oven bottom would not budge. Finally used a socket set to loosen it up. Upon taking out the old bottom I turned it over & saw a heat shield attached. I have no idea if you can order a new bottom with a new shield already attached or not, but I had no idea it was there until I took the old part out. Out of the eight screws attaching the shied, four of them were also difficult to loosen up. But in the end the new bottom looks great !

1. Removed oven door..
2. Slide out floor plate of over.
3. Removed four screws securing the flame shield.
4. removed the two screws attaching the heating element to the burner.
5. Pulled heating element wires out of rear hole in oven and detached plug.
6. Attached new element and reassembled in reverse order.

Very simple repair, removed the back plate, took off the 4 screws holding the controler panel on, swapped over the wires one at a time, and reinstalled. Less than 15 min total time.

Removed the old glowbar's two screws. Didn't take a mental photo of its proper placcement (or a real one, which would've been smart). Removed screws holding 1) a heat protection plate, and 2) wire harness plate. Installed the new glowbar, hopefully, the right way - with its heat-plate facing the gasline of the over/broiler. Reinstalled the heat protection plate and wire harness plate. Hasn't blown up yet!

Tested for power to the igniter, (had power) so I knew it must have been the igniter that had failed. Removed two screws that held the shield in place, remove two screws that hold the igniter and disconnect the plug form the igniter, replace with new igniter.