JGBP25SEN3SS General Electric Range - Instructions

Following the recommendations of others I decided to attempt repairing the oven by myself. I unplugged the stove. I removed the oven door, the drawer, the drip pan from below the oven unit and the oven pan to access the igniter bracket. All screws were 1/4" hex head except the oven pan which were slotted. I disconnected the 2 wires. I removed the old igniter and cut the 2 wires close to the old igniter to allow extra length to splice to the new igniter. The new unit included 2 wire-nuts. It was simple to wire-nut the new wires to the old ones and install the new igniter. I reassembled the pans I had removed and the door. I plugged the stove back into the wall. The new igniter worked perfectly. My wife continues to tell me how great it is to have a working oven again and how much faster it seems to heat. I am thankful the oven didn't fail while we were cooking the Thanksgiving turkey the week before. I debated calling a repair technician or shopping for a new stove. The price of the new igniter and the description of the procedure convinced me to attempt a repair. I am very pleased with the results.

Followed suggestions of previous posts. Removed oven door, warming drawer, pan in bottom of oven. Removed element to replace igniter. One thing I would add is I put a small piece of electical tape on the heads of the two 1/4 in. screws for the rear element bracket. This kept them from falling out of nutdriver.

I removed the 2 screws that held the bottom oven plate in place. Then I removed the one screw holding the bottom burner in place in the front. I then reached into the rear area and unscrewed the last 2 screws securing the burner. I disconnected the igniter wires at their push-on connections and lifted the whole burner/igniter unit out. I relaced the igniter using the 2 attachment screws, and I cut the old igniter's wires with connectors and spliced them into the new igniter's wires, using the ceramic wire nuts that came with the new igniter. I reassembled the unit and it worked first time.

removed bottom of oven.removed heat shield.i
then unscrewed the wire nuts to the igniter.i
then tookout the burnner with the igniter attached.
i unscrewed the two screws holding the igniter
in place,and put the new one on.i then screwed
the wire nuts back on,and put it back togather.
it works great,thanks for the help.it saved me alot
of money.

I removed the bottom pan and then removed the flame extender to get access to the igniter. I removed the two screws and cut the wires. I then wired the new igniter and used the ceramic wire nuts that came with the part. After that I installed the igniter. It was very easy to do this repair.

It was easy. I removed the guts. Removed the heat deflector (one nut). Then removed the igniter and the cover over the wires in order to unplug the wires so I could work with attaching the new part on top of the counter. Replaced everything and it worked great. When the old igniter did not work, the gas valve would not let the gas into the oven, Once replaced, you can here the gas flow in and ignite. Repair man wanted $65 to show up and $175 for part and labor. I paid $77 for the part and did it myself. I do not consider myself handy.

I rempved the top and bottom doors, than the wire rackes followed by the bottom base of the oven. Then I removed the burner cover plate so I could get to the igniter.. I removed the cover plate for the wiring (2 wires), unpluged them, removed the igniter (2 screws). I had to cut the wires on the old igniter and couple the ends to the new igniter and then replaced everything by just reversing all that I did. Simple! Easy!

Removed grills, oven bottom, heat deflector, and the two igniter mounting screws. Pulled out igniter, removed two wire twist caps and old igniter. Cut off ragged ends of wires coming from the stove side and re-stripped the wire ends. Attached oven side wires to new igniter wires using new twist caps. Reassembled everything in reverse order. Tested oven operation to ensure that the gas ignited promptly. (It did).

1. Open oven door
2. insert oven racks (perfect fit)
3. close oven door. Done and finished - man am I tired

Two set screws in rear; removed easily with a screwdriver. Old oven floor lifted out easily; new oven floor dropped in just as easily; set screws re-installed. Done. Pleasantly surprised at how easy this went.

placed on range

I was able to access the burner and igniter by removing the broiler drawer. The flame guard was removed with a nut driver and the old igniter with a phillips screwdriver.

The electrical wires had to be spliced into the old igniter wires as they did not come with the factory connectors. However sire nuts were supplied.

After replacement of the igniter with the new one .. it would glow and about a minute later the gas would come on. However the gas from the burner did not light. I had to adjust the bracket closer to the burner to correct the issue.

Note: The igniter is wired in series with the gas valve. This means that it will continue to glow even after the burner lights durning oven operation.

I figured out the problem, ordered the part, and replaced it. Four hex head screws, two wire nuts, and two thum screws latter it was working.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires...And then I installed
ignitor tightening the two screws and connected the two ignitor wires with the provided wire-nuts.
Mike Polcho

It was a simple repair removed the oven door, and the oven bottom plate. removed the screw that held the burner tube to gain access to the two screws that hold the igniter in place clipped the wires. put the new one on with butt end wire connectors instead of the wire nuts supplied. screwed the igniter back onto the burner tube put the burner tube back in place and secured it with the screw, replace oven bottom and door the whole repair took 20 minutes.