JGBP25DEM3WW General Electric Range - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Wesley from FRANKLIN, TN
- Parts Used:
- WB13K10014
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers
Gas range igniter was making a clicking sound every 3 to 5 minutes, as if it was trying to ignite one of the burners.
Unplug the range from its wall socket to avoid electric shock. The various range parts that support a pot or frypan are easily lifted off their perches, exposing the small white igniter. The only moderately difficult aspect is wiggling the igniter out of its retainer. The electric wire leading into it then can be pulled out and fed into the new igniter with a push. Replace igniter in its retainer, then replace the range parts you removed to expose the igniter and plug the range back into the wall socket. Piece of cake.
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- Customer:
- TERESA from SALTVILLE, VA
- Parts Used:
- WB02K10061
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set
Drawer glide broken
took nut driver to remove the old and replaced with new. simple.
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- Customer:
- Harold from BUCKLEY, MI
- Parts Used:
- WB13K21
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
GAS OVEN WOULDN'T LIGHT
With the model number I wnet on Parts select site and located the part through the problem finder selection,(GREATFEATURE!) (74% the problem is the Flat Style Oven Igniter) (watched the video on installation and compared my unit with the one in the video). The video explained installation completely and made it very simple. The only critic is that the oven door can be removed completely to make it easier to get in the the oven, opening part way and lifting up the oven door will come completely off. Also the broiler pan drawer can be taken completely out if you would need to get in this way for some reason. Final note: I called the local GE dealer Parts dept- they would have had to order the part anyway and it would have cost three times what Parts Select charged me.Save $$$ great! .
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- Customer:
- Robin from Apple Valley, MN
- Parts Used:
- WB07K10250
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set
bottom trim had rusted, so we needed new piece
Removed oven door (made sure hinges were locked open and stayed open). Remove part on top of trim, removed rusted trim and replaced with new trim. Replaced part on top of trim and screwed all back together. Put oven door back on and unlocked hinges. It was easier than the trial run (when I hadn't realized that the hinges weren't locked open!)
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- Customer:
- Peter from REDDING, CT
- Parts Used:
- WB35X37973
- Difficulty Level:
- Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
Hard to remove screws & no instructions that a heat shield had to be transferred from old to new
One of the initial two screws for the oven bottom would not budge. Finally used a socket set to loosen it up. Upon taking out the old bottom I turned it over & saw a heat shield attached. I have no idea if you can order a new bottom with a new shield already attached or not, but I had no idea it was there until I took the old part out. Out of the eight screws attaching the shied, four of them were also difficult to loosen up. But in the end the new bottom looks great !
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- Customer:
- Daniel from Espanola, NM
- Parts Used:
- WB13K21
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Wrench set
Replace glowbar igniter
Removed the old glowbar's two screws. Didn't take a mental photo of its proper placcement (or a real one, which would've been smart). Removed screws holding 1) a heat protection plate, and 2) wire harness plate. Installed the new glowbar, hopefully, the right way - with its heat-plate facing the gasline of the over/broiler. Reinstalled the heat protection plate and wire harness plate. Hasn't blown up yet!
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- Customer:
- Gary from Indio, CA
- Parts Used:
- WB29K10004
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
we had damaged the burner cap
just removed the old burner cap and put on the new one.
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- Customer:
- Chris from Inglewood, CA
- Parts Used:
- WB13K21
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Wrench set
Over not heating
1. Removed oven door..
2. Slide out floor plate of over.
3. Removed four screws securing the flame shield.
4. removed the two screws attaching the heating element to the burner.
5. Pulled heating element wires out of rear hole in oven and detached plug.
6. Attached new element and reassembled in reverse order.
2. Slide out floor plate of over.
3. Removed four screws securing the flame shield.
4. removed the two screws attaching the heating element to the burner.
5. Pulled heating element wires out of rear hole in oven and detached plug.
6. Attached new element and reassembled in reverse order.
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- Customer:
- WAYNE from HAMMOND, NY
- Parts Used:
- WB13K21
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Oven would not light
Tested for power to the igniter, (had power) so I knew it must have been the igniter that had failed. Removed two screws that held the shield in place, remove two screws that hold the igniter and disconnect the plug form the igniter, replace with new igniter.
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- Customer:
- Charles from SAINT LOUIS, MI
- Parts Used:
- WB20K10015
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Oven not lighting
Secured the power, Opened the back of the range, and discovered a rodent chewed the wires in half so I striped the ends and wired them back together, the oven works great !!
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- Customer:
- Richard from LEESBURG, FL
- Parts Used:
- WB27K10413, WB27K10354, WB20K10015
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Sometimes the cake bakes, sometimes it doesn't
First replaced temperature sensor following YouTube instructions.
Then removed upper back panel to expose the control board. Removed the screws holding the control board, but DID NOT disconnect the wires. Moved the old control board up over the top of the range to let it rest on the stove top.
Fit the new overlay on the new control board. There are edges on the bottom and one side of the control board that makes aligning it easy.
Then ONE AT A TIME, starting with the largest connector on the end of the board, disconnected a lead and reconnected to the new board. NOTE: THE CONNECTORS ON THE NEW BOARD ARE IN DIFFERENT LOCATIONS THAN ON THE OLD! But if you look closely, they are all labeled. Simply find the same label on the new board and connect the lead from that connector on the old board. Making the right connections is NOT a problem. And there are connectors on the new board that are NOT USED! A note in the packaging warns of this.
Remounted the control board, replaced the back panel, and plugged the range back in. The new control board flashed all the LEDs and the clock started blinking. Set the clock. Turned the oven on and confirmed that it lit, cycled on and off during preheat, and beeped when it came out of preheat.
Since this was a new sensor and a new control board, I used my DMV and thermocouple to check the min/max temp during the heating cycle. Had to calibrate the temp down 5 degrees. Instructions for doing this are on the web and in the owners manual. It is easy.
Finally, did the GE Biscuit Test (Google it) and the biscuits were a bit under baked at the minimum time and a bit over baked at the maximum time. Perfect!
Everything fit, everything worked, took about 45 minutes start to finish. Wife is happy and I'm getting baked goodies again!
Then removed upper back panel to expose the control board. Removed the screws holding the control board, but DID NOT disconnect the wires. Moved the old control board up over the top of the range to let it rest on the stove top.
Fit the new overlay on the new control board. There are edges on the bottom and one side of the control board that makes aligning it easy.
Then ONE AT A TIME, starting with the largest connector on the end of the board, disconnected a lead and reconnected to the new board. NOTE: THE CONNECTORS ON THE NEW BOARD ARE IN DIFFERENT LOCATIONS THAN ON THE OLD! But if you look closely, they are all labeled. Simply find the same label on the new board and connect the lead from that connector on the old board. Making the right connections is NOT a problem. And there are connectors on the new board that are NOT USED! A note in the packaging warns of this.
Remounted the control board, replaced the back panel, and plugged the range back in. The new control board flashed all the LEDs and the clock started blinking. Set the clock. Turned the oven on and confirmed that it lit, cycled on and off during preheat, and beeped when it came out of preheat.
Since this was a new sensor and a new control board, I used my DMV and thermocouple to check the min/max temp during the heating cycle. Had to calibrate the temp down 5 degrees. Instructions for doing this are on the web and in the owners manual. It is easy.
Finally, did the GE Biscuit Test (Google it) and the biscuits were a bit under baked at the minimum time and a bit over baked at the maximum time. Perfect!
Everything fit, everything worked, took about 45 minutes start to finish. Wife is happy and I'm getting baked goodies again!
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- Customer:
- Raymond from LAKEFIELD, MN
- Parts Used:
- WB13K21
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Oven would smell like natural gas odor , burner slow to come on
Replaced the flat style oven igniter. First, I watched the video on your web site, and used it as a reference to make the repair. I did remove the oven door tho, as it made it easier to complete the work, the video didn't show the door being removed. The video was very helpful.
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- Customer:
- MARY from BIG LAKE, MN
- Parts Used:
- WB13K21
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Oven would not heat to the degree you set it for
I first took out the screw which held the bottom plate for the oven. then took the screws off the igniter unhooked the wires , took the new igniter hooked up the wires then put the screws back in put the bottom plate back in and turned the oven on to test it and it worked great.
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- Customer:
- Erin from San Diego, CA
- Parts Used:
- WB13K21
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Oven wouldn't heat
I let my brother do the actual installation but it only look about 15 min. I did look at the website of the appliance manufacturer first and then came to this website. The cost of the part I needed was almost half as much as the other site. When I saw that someone with the same oven model number and had the same problem and was able to fix it, I decided to order here. It came quickly and my oven now works.
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- Customer:
- Glenn from West Melbourne, FL
- Parts Used:
- WB07K10250
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
The trim piece on the bottom of the door was rusted making the unit look really dirty and used.
It was pretty simple. Just remove the door as the bottom piece holds all the parts together. Place on table top and remove old trim. Install new trim and install door. The only difficult part was the trim had a space for the glass door front. I opened up the space so that the glass would seat easier. Went together real easy. Stove looks like it's brand new.
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