JGB80XSER1SS General Electric Range - Instructions

First I removed the broiler from the bottom of the oven, then pulled the oven way from the wall to unplug it. I then removed the two screws that hold the igniter element in place. Ironically, the plug GE manufactures is reversed so i had to strip the plug and go end and reverse the wires to attach them to the oven. I used ceramic wire attachments as plastic would surely have melted. Replaced the screws, replaced the broilers, plugged it in, replaced against the wall and it fired up.

slid the old ones out and slid the new ones in. done

I JUST EXCHANGED THE BURNER AND BURNER CAP.

I removed the two range grills. Then I removed the two chipped burner caps, and replaced them with the new burner caps. I then replaced the two range grills.

Order parts and installed - no tools needed - completed repairs less than 1 minute

Unplug the range from its wall socket to avoid electric shock. The various range parts that support a pot or frypan are easily lifted off their perches, exposing the small white igniter. The only moderately difficult aspect is wiggling the igniter out of its retainer. The electric wire leading into it then can be pulled out and fed into the new igniter with a push. Replace igniter in its retainer, then replace the range parts you removed to expose the igniter and plug the range back into the wall socket. Piece of cake.

With the model number I wnet on Parts select site and located the part through the problem finder selection,(GREATFEATURE!) (74% the problem is the Flat Style Oven Igniter) (watched the video on installation and compared my unit with the one in the video). The video explained installation completely and made it very simple. The only critic is that the oven door can be removed completely to make it easier to get in the the oven, opening part way and lifting up the oven door will come completely off. Also the broiler pan drawer can be taken completely out if you would need to get in this way for some reason. Final note: I called the local GE dealer Parts dept- they would have had to order the part anyway and it would have cost three times what Parts Select charged me.Save $$$ great! .

1. Removed oven door..
2. Slide out floor plate of over.
3. Removed four screws securing the flame shield.
4. removed the two screws attaching the heating element to the burner.
5. Pulled heating element wires out of rear hole in oven and detached plug.
6. Attached new element and reassembled in reverse order.

Removed the old glowbar's two screws. Didn't take a mental photo of its proper placcement (or a real one, which would've been smart). Removed screws holding 1) a heat protection plate, and 2) wire harness plate. Installed the new glowbar, hopefully, the right way - with its heat-plate facing the gasline of the over/broiler. Reinstalled the heat protection plate and wire harness plate. Hasn't blown up yet!

Just lifted old burner off with my fingers and replaced with the new one. What needs to be focused on here is the fact that Part Select has such a complete line of parts rather than the difficulty in the install.

un-screw temperature sensor, have to move racks and door, then open back cover board to disconnect the sensor.

One of the initial two screws for the oven bottom would not budge. Finally used a socket set to loosen it up. Upon taking out the old bottom I turned it over & saw a heat shield attached. I have no idea if you can order a new bottom with a new shield already attached or not, but I had no idea it was there until I took the old part out. Out of the eight screws attaching the shied, four of them were also difficult to loosen up. But in the end the new bottom looks great !

In general, other repair stories on this site collectively give a good description of the repair process. My words concern the decision that has to be made as to which element is bad - igniter or gas valve. To reach a conclusion about this question, I was comforted by the fact that I could measure the AC electric current through the gas valve which then let me decide that my problem was in the igniter. Since the circuit is a simple series with three elements, thermostat, igniter, and valve and the resistance of the valve unit was 1.0 to 1.2 ohms (per GE range equipment instruction which came with the range) by measuring the AC volts across the valve, I found (by dividing the volts AC across the gas valve (2.3 volts) by the resistance of the valve mechanism (1.0 ohms) that my old igniter was only supplying 2.3 AC amperes (instruction sheet states 2.9 amps. is needed to actuate the valve and further while heating of the oven is occurring the valve AC current will raise to 3.2 to 3.6 amps.). At 2.3 amps. the igniter will glow at a yellow color but will not actuate the valve. When you replace the old igniter with a new one you will enjoy to measure voltage across the gas valve once again and discover that the voltage rises to 2.9 volts and that the gas turns on and the heater tube gas is ignited.

Remove the existing burner and install the replacement.

In order to get to the burner switch you must remove the top of the range. Removed the 2 screws in the front holding it down then tried to remove the burner mounting screws securing the burner holders in place. Of the 12 screws, 10 were frozen. The screws sheared when I tried to remove them. After removing the top, I removed the burner holders one at a time and drilled out the broken screws. I would have purchased replacements but the part was listed as unavailable. I removed the front panel which exposed the switches. I cut the wires of the defective switch and used heat shrink crimp connectors to connect the new switch. With the top off the ignition module in the back of the range is exposed. I popped the old one out, changed the wires to the new one, one at a time and secured the new one in place with wire ties as the mounting tabs did not line up. Reassembled the range top using new #8 3/4" stainless steel screws to secure the burner holders. Plugged it in, turned on the gas and voila all the burners light. What should have been a 2 hour job took about 10 hours due to having to drill out the sheared screws.