JGB810DET1CC General Electric Range - Instructions

(I could hold a torch on the igniter to start it, then it would work, but would not initially heat up on its own). Pull up and remove oven door. Remove racks. Remove 2 thumb screws in back of bottom plate and remove plate. Remove 1 screw on cover plate. remove 2 screws on igniter and unplug. Splice wires from new igniter to old plug with ceramic wirenuts (included). (Manufacturer changed plug design). re-install everything. (Sears wanted $80.00 for the part, Appliance Factory wanted $47.00).

Over a duration the oven burner would take time to light, then eventually not ignite at all, so repaired ignitor and alls good. Easy, easy, didn't have to disconnect gas, electric for safety.

two 1/4 inch screws took oven tray out....two 1/4 inch screws took out ignitor..the replacement would not plug into the wiring, so I cut the plastic plug off and wire nutted ends together..baked cookies after!!!!

The job was made very simple primarily due to the repair video that was available on your site when I ordered the part that I was looking for. The job can be done in less than 15 min, but it took me a little bit longer because of some rusted screws that didn’t want to come out so easily. I also decided to take of the front door (not mentioned in the video) just to make it a bit easier to reach the igniter component. The door comes off very easy by opening the door about 6 inches and pulling up and off of the door hinges. Again for a novice like me the video was a life saver.

I was at my in-laws and they expressed how they needed to buy a new stove, since it stopped working. They explained the problem to me and I immediately checked the broiled (it worked fine). Knowing that stoves have 2 electric igniters, i knew 1 was bad.
The site got me the part in 3 days (regular shipping).
The repair was pretty easy.
- Removed 2 screws that hold the floor of the oven.
- Removed 2 nuts that held the igniter to the oven.
- Removed the bottom drawer of the oven, and unplugged the igniter.
- Finally, I screwed in the new igniter, fed the wire down to the plug and plugged it in.
- Then I tested the oven before putting it back together, IT WORKED!)
The only negative was, when I was removing the racks and pans from the oven, one of them happened to be filled with oil for frying, and it got all over me. Be prepared for anything when working on someone else's appliance.

First removed 3 screws at burner front and back then pulled out lower storage drawer to disconnect plastic connector, removed and had to cut plastic connectors to use ceramic wire nuts (supplied with parts box) I had to work from underneath stove as well as in the oven it self, if the main door is easily removable it would have helped a great deal but four hours later

removed oven door racks and pan from bottom of oven. removed warming drawer unplugged oven igniter removed 2 hex screws from bracket on igniter. replaced with new one fiched wire down to warming drawer area plugged in. replaced door and warming drawer. works fine now. very ez to do!

Bake ignitor would not glow. Removed racks and lower pan to access the ignitor. Removed two attaching screws and unplugged electrical connector. Installed new ignitor. Hint: Gas will not flow unless both the bake and broil ignitors are operational. Ignitors are interchangable; you can test ignitors by swapping them.

Replaced the igniter. Quite simple.

Remove the warming drawer to get to the electrical connection, Remove two nuts from igniter, replace igniter fasten the nuts and connect electrical. Oven works fine. BEST PART OF THIS......SAVED $250.

Replaced the ignitor in the broiler. Two screws holding the ignitor in place and two to the cover holding the quick connect plug.

I unplugged the power then removed the shield from in front of the valve location. I removed the wire shield and pulled the wire connector into the burner area. I unplugged the wire then removed the burner frame pulling it out, I removed and re-installed the igniter kit. I also had to cut the connector from the from the old igniter (about 3" up)then remove the connector from the new (cutting flush to that connector) and switched out the connectors using the porcelane wire ties provided with the new unit. I then re-installed the burner frame making certain that the wires were in the proper location. I plugged the connectors together ensuring proper locking, pushed the wires back into the hole, replaced the wire shield and then the valve cover shield. Restored power the igniter lit brightly and approximately 4-5 seconds later the oven burner lit. I checked connector because another person on the site stated that it may be the wrong one and that the wire connectors would be sent in case that were so.

Removed lower oven panel and replaced oven igniter.

I went on youtube and found videos for similar problems. Then was shown how to test the part to confirm if it was good or bad. After testing with an amp meter I confirmed that the ignighter was bad. I ordered the part and got it in 3 days. I put in the new ignighter turned on the oven and placed inside the oven a temperature gage, when the timer rang on the stove confirming that the oven was up to temperature, I opened the oven door and the temperature gage read 350 deg. exactly the temperature I had set. So for under 50.00 I fixed the oven, a service call would of been 80.00 plus parts. Thanks for the help. Bob Murphy

It was quite easy. Uplug the ingnitor and remove two screws from bracket holding it in place along side gas pipe. Plug in new ignitor and and reinstall two screws thru bracket to secure ignitor against gas pipe. Thats it!! Oh, you must remove floor of oven (two Screws,back wall)and remove broiler and door/tray by pulling all the way out to access the ignitor and gas pipe assembly.