JGBP27DEM2WW General Electric Range - Instructions

Following the recommendations of others I decided to attempt repairing the oven by myself. I unplugged the stove. I removed the oven door, the drawer, the drip pan from below the oven unit and the oven pan to access the igniter bracket. All screws were 1/4" hex head except the oven pan which were slotted. I disconnected the 2 wires. I removed the old igniter and cut the 2 wires close to the old igniter to allow extra length to splice to the new igniter. The new unit included 2 wire-nuts. It was simple to wire-nut the new wires to the old ones and install the new igniter. I reassembled the pans I had removed and the door. I plugged the stove back into the wall. The new igniter worked perfectly. My wife continues to tell me how great it is to have a working oven again and how much faster it seems to heat. I am thankful the oven didn't fail while we were cooking the Thanksgiving turkey the week before. I debated calling a repair technician or shopping for a new stove. The price of the new igniter and the description of the procedure convinced me to attempt a repair. I am very pleased with the results.

Took 5 minutes to repair easy peasy??

First I disconnected power, then removed two screws from igniter & cliped two wires. Then installed new igniter & with the wire nuts supplied refastened to supply lines in oven.
PartSelect makes repairs quick & easy. It just takes a little smarts on your part.

Ordered part from customer friendly Part Select and received the replacement part within a few days, and installed it promptly. Wife is happy and stopped grumbling about oven bottom unsightly defect! Small price to pay for a happy wife! Ernie

Unplugged the oven. First i removed the 2 screws from the pan at the bottom of the oven and took the pan out. Next i took out the drawer underneath and took the screws out of the pans below to get to the ignitor. Unscrewed the ignitor and cut the wires below it to splice the new ignitor on. Spliced the two sets of wires and put the ceramic wire nuts on. Replaced the top and bottom pans and put the drawer back. plugged the oven back in and started the oven right up. Pretty easy.

They turned out to be 1/4 inch hex head screws. Only after soaking with penetrating oil could we budge them. There must be a special tool to loosen them on the back side where there is no room to get a socket on them and since they are in the heated part of the oven they are almost welded in. We were successful, but could only get one screw back in. So never use your oven with the door left open as I did if you do not want to repeat what happened to me.

I removed the 2 screws that held the bottom oven plate in place. Then I removed the one screw holding the bottom burner in place in the front. I then reached into the rear area and unscrewed the last 2 screws securing the burner. I disconnected the igniter wires at their push-on connections and lifted the whole burner/igniter unit out. I relaced the igniter using the 2 attachment screws, and I cut the old igniter's wires with connectors and spliced them into the new igniter's wires, using the ceramic wire nuts that came with the new igniter. I reassembled the unit and it worked first time.

the electrodes on this model have to be removed before you can raise cooktop, once cooktop is raised remove wire from burner bracket, use needle nose pliers to squeeze bottom of clip,remove &replace with new parts.

Removed the two screws that hold the oven bottom to expose the glow element. Also removed the lower draw to get to the connections. The job was only complicated by getting to the two bolts holding the glow plug to the oven frame. Getting them off and getting the new plug on was not easy with standard tools. There was not a lot of room to work the hex bolts and i wound up cutting the old unit out and attaching the bolts to the frame and cutting slots in the new unit so I could slot it in. That worked. The glow plug was the problem and the oven came right on.

PULL RANGE OUT FROM WALL & ALSO REMOVED OVEN DOOR BY SLIDING UP. WORKING FROM INSIDE OVEN & ALSO BEHIND I REPLACED PART . ALWAYS " UNPLUG " RANGE BEFORE YOU START.

Go to utube videos for this are there

Straight forward as per instructions. Removed old igniter, replaced and tested new one and it worked. However, the gas oven would not turn of. Valve may be defective. Knob control is not stripped and turned to full stop. Troubleshooting continues. Part(s) and instructions worked perfectly.

Most trouble I had was removing the screws that were located under the bracket. I had to slip the oven door off first to give me more room. Very hard to get to these screws because of where they were located under the bracket. I had to twist and turn the old igniter to get to it. When finally removed, I replaced the old igniter with the new one using my own screws. I twisted the wires together, and replaced the baffles, the oven floor, and then the door. The oven fired up wonderfully! Thank you for your prompt service for getting me the part quickly and correctly.

This web site is awesome!!! their forum told me what part i needed, and they shipped it out, super fast, i couldn't hardly believe it! I tried using the Sears Parts web site for my "kenmore" oven and that was a joke, seriously! no more kenmore for me, thanks. It took this site to figure out that i really had a G.E. with a kenmore name on it.
I found out that even though the old ignitor glows well, it may not pull enough amps to open the gas valve.
First i disconnected the two wires on the gas safety valve that lead to the ignitor. These are accessed after taking the bottom drawer out. Then using a nut driver, i took out the two screws holding the bottom of the burner tube. Then inside the oven, i took out the racks and then the two screws in the back on the bottom. Then took out the bottom plate. I removed the one screw on the front of the burner tube, and removed the burner tube with the ignitor attached. I cut the wires off the old ignitor and attached them to the new ignitor with the supplied ceramic wire nuts. I attached the new ignitor to the burner tube and put everything back together. The bottom screws on the burner tube were very difficult for me to reach. Almost impossible to get both hands there to do the job.

First shut down electric power to oven. remove
oven racks and botton tray. Removed boiler rack and door. Next unscrew 2 bolts holding igniter. remove nuts or cap for two white electric wires.
installed new igniter, hooked backup wires. replaces racks and tray and that was it, job done.