JGB300DEP1WW General Electric Range - Instructions

First I removed the broiler from the bottom of the oven, then pulled the oven way from the wall to unplug it. I then removed the two screws that hold the igniter element in place. Ironically, the plug GE manufactures is reversed so i had to strip the plug and go end and reverse the wires to attach them to the oven. I used ceramic wire attachments as plastic would surely have melted. Replaced the screws, replaced the broilers, plugged it in, replaced against the wall and it fired up.

I removed the two range grills. Then I removed the two chipped burner caps, and replaced them with the new burner caps. I then replaced the two range grills.

Remove the warming drawer entirely. Remove all five nuts securing the valve and regulator assembly. Loosen (do not remove the nuts entirely) the burner assembly itself to give some wiggle room above the valve and regulator assembly. Also remove the single screw that holds the "collar" in place just above the gas outlet that services the oven burner. This should provide the margin of room you need to remove the valve and regulator assembly because it's a tight space. Working entirely in this cramped space (the warming drawer) will take time and patience. Don't drop any screws because you might create a whole load of more work for yourself. Loosen the brass nuts holding the gas lines in place. Then you have to maneovre the old equipment out. Just reverse all the steps to install the new equipment. Apply Harvey's to the brass nuts and re-attach the gas lines BEFORE you firmly attach the equipment using the five nuts. Don't tighten the brass parts all the way, just hand tight at first. Re-attach the equipment using the five nuts, then tighten up the brass parts with a wrench. Don't over tighten. Re-secure the screws that hold the burner in place. Then test the equipment. If all good, wait for the oven to cool, then do a final check that all the screws are firmly in place. Voila.

My son took out the old burner bar and there was a hole burnt right through it. I ordered the part on Weds night and was surprised when we received it so quickly on Fri morning. He had no trouble at all - just removed the old igniter and bar and replaced it with the new one. Nothing needed cut or spliced - perfect match. Now I can bake again!!!

un-screw temperature sensor, have to move racks and door, then open back cover board to disconnect the sensor.

One of the initial two screws for the oven bottom would not budge. Finally used a socket set to loosen it up. Upon taking out the old bottom I turned it over & saw a heat shield attached. I have no idea if you can order a new bottom with a new shield already attached or not, but I had no idea it was there until I took the old part out. Out of the eight screws attaching the shied, four of them were also difficult to loosen up. But in the end the new bottom looks great !

Removed the old glowbar's two screws. Didn't take a mental photo of its proper placcement (or a real one, which would've been smart). Removed screws holding 1) a heat protection plate, and 2) wire harness plate. Installed the new glowbar, hopefully, the right way - with its heat-plate facing the gasline of the over/broiler. Reinstalled the heat protection plate and wire harness plate. Hasn't blown up yet!

1. Removed oven door..
2. Slide out floor plate of over.
3. Removed four screws securing the flame shield.
4. removed the two screws attaching the heating element to the burner.
5. Pulled heating element wires out of rear hole in oven and detached plug.
6. Attached new element and reassembled in reverse order.

Removed oven door (made sure hinges were locked open and stayed open). Remove part on top of trim, removed rusted trim and replaced with new trim. Replaced part on top of trim and screwed all back together. Put oven door back on and unlocked hinges. It was easier than the trial run (when I hadn't realized that the hinges weren't locked open!)

Just lifted old burner off with my fingers and replaced with the new one. What needs to be focused on here is the fact that Part Select has such a complete line of parts rather than the difficulty in the install.

Too easy a five year old could do it

Unscrewed eight screws. Removed rusted part. Cleaned area with Windex. Replaced new part.

Remove the top grate and remove the top burner plate and then pull the burner out and remove the torx screw and adapter install onto the new burner and place back on the stove , good to go.

Step 1 pull the broiler completely out of the bottom of the oven. Step 2 unplug the igniter Step 3 remove 3 small screws to pull the burner tube completely out of the oven. Step 4 replace the igniter and repeat steps to install burner tube back into the oven.

Pulled the gas stove out so that I could shut off the gas valve and unplug the power cord. Job was made easier by removing the oven door (which just slides out). I took the 2 screws out that held the old igniter in place. Went to the rear of the range where there was a small 3"X2" electrical cover for the igniter, and disconnected the wire leads from the wiring harness. I then pulled the old igniter out through the oven front. Fed the new igniter wires through the back of the range and plugged the new igniter in. Reinstalled the electrical cover in the back of the range, attached the 2 -1/4" screws to reinstall the igniter inside the broiler. Put back the oven door. Turned the gas valve back on and sprayed on a soapy solution to check for gas leaks. Plugged the electrical cord back in. Pushed range back in place, Turned broiler on. Wait for a few seconds till the gas comes back thru the line. Works great Our stove was a GE Profile Gas Range. The part number for the igniter is WB13K21. We are very satisfied. Jim