JGB281DER2CC General Electric Range - Instructions

removed lower broiler pan so i could see burner igniter. removed the heat shield in front of the gas valve. (1 screw). started oven. no response from igniter. no gas flow at all. if igniter is bad it will not allow gas to flow. ordered new igniter from parts select for my oven model. got it in a couple of days. it wasnt exactly the same as the original, but was compatible. it came with its own connector, but didnt fit. i had to cut it off and splice in the original connector. i had to remove the burner tube to remove the original igniter because the wire was routed around and behind the tube. it just took a couple of screws to remove it and it pulls right off. this is all accessible on the top of the broiler drawer. installed the two screws on the new igniter and plugged in the connector. started oven and igniter started glowing bright immediatly. oven burner lit off within a few seconds. everything working like new now.

I removed the two screws that hold the element in place then I had to splice the wires because the connector was not right and used the two wire nuts that came with the unit .

the part fit perfect so 5 min, done, thanks for the right part the frist time, I will be back

Unhooked old one, installed new one. Piece of cake.

I was at my in-laws and they expressed how they needed to buy a new stove, since it stopped working. They explained the problem to me and I immediately checked the broiled (it worked fine). Knowing that stoves have 2 electric igniters, i knew 1 was bad.
The site got me the part in 3 days (regular shipping).
The repair was pretty easy.
- Removed 2 screws that hold the floor of the oven.
- Removed 2 nuts that held the igniter to the oven.
- Removed the bottom drawer of the oven, and unplugged the igniter.
- Finally, I screwed in the new igniter, fed the wire down to the plug and plugged it in.
- Then I tested the oven before putting it back together, IT WORKED!)
The only negative was, when I was removing the racks and pans from the oven, one of them happened to be filled with oil for frying, and it got all over me. Be prepared for anything when working on someone else's appliance.

Old school, so I first thought it had to be a thermostat, but realized it did not have a pilot light, but an igniter. Read a few stories of others who had the same issue. Ordered the part, came in early. By that time I knew what I had to do to replace it. Only issue was the part came with a male connector when the original was female. But part came with a couple of ceramic wire nuts, so I guess that is not uncommon. Cut the connectors off and used the wirenuts. Oven is working well.

It was quite easy. Uplug the ingnitor and remove two screws from bracket holding it in place along side gas pipe. Plug in new ignitor and and reinstall two screws thru bracket to secure ignitor against gas pipe. Thats it!! Oh, you must remove floor of oven (two Screws,back wall)and remove broiler and door/tray by pulling all the way out to access the ignitor and gas pipe assembly.

First removed 3 screws at burner front and back then pulled out lower storage drawer to disconnect plastic connector, removed and had to cut plastic connectors to use ceramic wire nuts (supplied with parts box) I had to work from underneath stove as well as in the oven it self, if the main door is easily removable it would have helped a great deal but four hours later

This is a wall mounted oven. Quickly removed the door off hinges (no tools needed). Removed two mounting philips head screws from old igniter. Pulled on wires from the old igniter from back of oven to expose connectors. Disconnected the old igniter. Because the new igniter had a different type of connector, I had to cut connectors off the oven wires as well as the new igniter and use the provided wire nuts. I stuffed the wires back into the back wall of the oven and repositioned the insulation, secured the new igniter and put the door back on. Job done, oven works fine.

The job was made very simple primarily due to the repair video that was available on your site when I ordered the part that I was looking for. The job can be done in less than 15 min, but it took me a little bit longer because of some rusted screws that didn’t want to come out so easily. I also decided to take of the front door (not mentioned in the video) just to make it a bit easier to reach the igniter component. The door comes off very easy by opening the door about 6 inches and pulling up and off of the door hinges. Again for a novice like me the video was a life saver.

I went on line found your web sight selected the igniter kit required for my stove. Your web site made it easy to select the part I needed after reviewing the diagram. It was very easy to install just unplug the old unit and plug in the replacement. I would recommend this site to others.
I saved a few dollars; just think if a tech had to come out?

The part was the exact replacement and fit exactly. Had to cut some of the sheetmetal at the back of the broiler to get the wiring through.

two 1/4 inch screws took oven tray out....two 1/4 inch screws took out ignitor..the replacement would not plug into the wiring, so I cut the plastic plug off and wire nutted ends together..baked cookies after!!!!

Took out bottom of oven, took apart burner & cover. Replace the igniter, , put back together. BAM

(I could hold a torch on the igniter to start it, then it would work, but would not initially heat up on its own). Pull up and remove oven door. Remove racks. Remove 2 thumb screws in back of bottom plate and remove plate. Remove 1 screw on cover plate. remove 2 screws on igniter and unplug. Splice wires from new igniter to old plug with ceramic wirenuts (included). (Manufacturer changed plug design). re-install everything. (Sears wanted $80.00 for the part, Appliance Factory wanted $47.00).