JGBP33DEM2CC General Electric Range - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Chris from BAILEY, CO
- Parts Used:
- WB16T10046, WB02K10062, WB02K10061
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
Uneven flame on large gas burner
The part was very easy to switch out but it made no difference whatsoever so I returned it. The way it is designed is the problem. There is a pie slice shaped gap on the burner which causes a gap of no flame. Also a C shaped cut out around the igniter which causes another no flame gap.
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- Customer:
- Robert from Fallbrook, CA
- Parts Used:
- WB2X9154
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
The oven burner would not ignite
Removed oven door, warming drawer, oven bottom, oven burner, disconnected wires to igniter. Also, instructions said to turn off gas supply at pressure regulator, {little red lever.} I also turned off main gas supply, and un-plugged power cord. Removing the igniter and replacing with new one was easy. Splicing wires and putting everything back together was also pretty easy. The only problem was when I tryed to open the gas to the pressure regulator, the little red lever popped off. Very cramped area to work in, could'nt get a tool to fit in there. So, I got some nylon string, made a loop, looped it on the notch on the pin, pulled it out and got the little red lever back onto the pin and then was able to open the valve. There is no gas going to the burner if that lever is not on holding the pin out, and you can't put that lever back on unless the pin is pulled out. If I ever do that job again I will not touch the red lever, I will just shut off the main gas supply. It would have been a pretty easy fix if that lever would not have popped off.
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- Customer:
- Donald from Elkhart, IN
- Parts Used:
- WB2X9154
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
everything worked on the stove except for the oven
Since I'm not very mechanical I had my service manager from work come to my house and fiqure out the problem. By using an electrical meter he found that there was no continuity in the igniter. So being the mechanical guy I am I watched him take out 2 screws that secured the the piece of metal that covers the bottom part of the stove. He pulled that part out and from there it was 2 screws to release it from the back of the stove and 2 more to disconnect the igniter from the burner tube. We ordered the part and it arrived in 3 days. I opened the box and to my dismay it was broke. I called to tell them that it was broke and they ordered me a new one right then. I had that part the next day very grateful for that. I was able then to put it back together myself and it worked. Wife is extremely happy with me.
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- Customer:
- Solomon A from COLLEGE PARK, GA
- Parts Used:
- WB16T10046
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
The eye would not light
Remove the existing burner and install the replacement.
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- Customer:
- James from RANCHO MIRAGE, CA
- Parts Used:
- WB02K10061
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Broken drawer glider
Took off broken part and replaced it with the new part by removing a Phillips head screw, the broken part, replace with new and reinstalling the same screw.
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- Customer:
- Anne from OSSINING, NY
- Parts Used:
- WB29X36765, WB29K10005
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
The burner caps were chipped and discolored.
I merely replaced the old caps with the new ones. It couldn't have been easier!
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- Customer:
- Gerald from WINTERVILLE, GA
- Parts Used:
- 40A15
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
lights blown out
replaced lights in refrigirator and freezer
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- Customer:
- Charlotte from CHICAGO, IL
- Parts Used:
- WB35X37973
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Existing oven bottom was damaged.
Removed two screws to remove old bottom. Insert new oven bottom and re-attach screws.
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- Customer:
- Teddy from Bel Air, MD
- Parts Used:
- WB29X36765, WB29K10005, WB29K10003
- Difficulty Level:
- Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
GOT 1-SMALL 2-MEDIUM 0-LARGE CAPS
PLEASE BE ADVISED WHEN THEY SHIPPED THE BACK ORDER 1 -(taupe) LARGE CAP - RECEIVED 4 BLACK CAPS - 1-SMALL
2-MEDIUM 1-LARGE (ALL BLACK) - STILL LOOKING FOR
A LARGE CAP IN taupe color!
Received refund for 1-large cap
PROBLEM IS ALL OTHER PARTS ON THE GAS STOVE
ARE taupe in color - do not want black!
your advice?
2-MEDIUM 1-LARGE (ALL BLACK) - STILL LOOKING FOR
A LARGE CAP IN taupe color!
Received refund for 1-large cap
PROBLEM IS ALL OTHER PARTS ON THE GAS STOVE
ARE taupe in color - do not want black!
your advice?
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- Customer:
- Patricia from SAN JOSE, CA
- Parts Used:
- WB48T10095
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
oven racks very old and writing on knobs worn ff
Very was ti replace racks and knobs. Very fast mail service
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- Customer:
- Jonathan from Seattle, WA
- Parts Used:
- WB34K10016, WB34K10015, WB31K10044
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Old grills
Took them out of the box and put them on the stove
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- Customer:
- Jacklyn from HOWARD CITY, MI
- Parts Used:
- WB2X9154
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- More than 2 hours
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
Oven igniter didn't work.
The bolts were below the base of the oven, and very difficult to remove and replace. The directions were not applicable to our unit. The good news was the igniter was correct, even though we had to adapt the bracket.
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- Customer:
- Victor from Hathaway Pines, CA
- Parts Used:
- WB2X9154
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- More than 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Broiler would not ignite.
1) Verified it was the broiler igniter that was damaged.
2) Removed the oven door, the lower pot storage drawer and the top range panel.
3) Turned off the gas supply in the top range area. Pulled the electrical plug-in out of the lower electrical panel (behind the lower drawer).
4) Used the nut driver to remove the two (2) 1/4" screws that held the igniter to the back wall of the oven. I later read in the Use & Care Guide that this is easier to do if the broiler burner cover is removed first.
5) I pulled the damaged igniter away from the back wall, expecting to expose wire connectors or splicing but was only able to get about 6" of the two (2) insulated wires before I could not pull them any further.
6) Therefore, I cut the wires and, without a proper wire stripper, cut about 3/8" of insulation away in order to make a splice between the wiring from the new igniter and the wiring coming out of the back of the oven. Big mistake ..... do not recommend this without using a proper wire stripper! I must have cut into the existing exposed oven wiring on one of the wires such that when I used the twist-on to make the splice, most of the wires (those wound together to form one wire) were damaged and broke away. Unfortuantely I did not find this out until everything was put back together and we (my wife and I) did the test. No results!
7) I took everything apart again and when I tried to pull the wiring back out from in behind the oven wall, one wire came out with the twist-on in tact and the other came out "with no wire attachment".
8) I now had to figure out how to get into the back of the oven to retrieve the "lost connecting wire". It is quite simple when you know what you are doing but no instructions (that I had) advised that the upper back light gauge metal panels could be easily removed to expose the wiring. This was eventually determined and the connections were both made again in a more positive manner.
9) We (my wife and I) put it all back together and this time it was fine ..... just had to be patient while the gas purged the air out of the broiler burner line.
10) Lessons learned: GE made it easy "once you knew how it could be done". I suspect GE feels that service type people should be doing these things but with a 120VAC (vs higher voltage electric type ovens) system why not provide the info for the "do-it-yourselfers" as well?
2) Removed the oven door, the lower pot storage drawer and the top range panel.
3) Turned off the gas supply in the top range area. Pulled the electrical plug-in out of the lower electrical panel (behind the lower drawer).
4) Used the nut driver to remove the two (2) 1/4" screws that held the igniter to the back wall of the oven. I later read in the Use & Care Guide that this is easier to do if the broiler burner cover is removed first.
5) I pulled the damaged igniter away from the back wall, expecting to expose wire connectors or splicing but was only able to get about 6" of the two (2) insulated wires before I could not pull them any further.
6) Therefore, I cut the wires and, without a proper wire stripper, cut about 3/8" of insulation away in order to make a splice between the wiring from the new igniter and the wiring coming out of the back of the oven. Big mistake ..... do not recommend this without using a proper wire stripper! I must have cut into the existing exposed oven wiring on one of the wires such that when I used the twist-on to make the splice, most of the wires (those wound together to form one wire) were damaged and broke away. Unfortuantely I did not find this out until everything was put back together and we (my wife and I) did the test. No results!
7) I took everything apart again and when I tried to pull the wiring back out from in behind the oven wall, one wire came out with the twist-on in tact and the other came out "with no wire attachment".
8) I now had to figure out how to get into the back of the oven to retrieve the "lost connecting wire". It is quite simple when you know what you are doing but no instructions (that I had) advised that the upper back light gauge metal panels could be easily removed to expose the wiring. This was eventually determined and the connections were both made again in a more positive manner.
9) We (my wife and I) put it all back together and this time it was fine ..... just had to be patient while the gas purged the air out of the broiler burner line.
10) Lessons learned: GE made it easy "once you knew how it could be done". I suspect GE feels that service type people should be doing these things but with a 120VAC (vs higher voltage electric type ovens) system why not provide the info for the "do-it-yourselfers" as well?
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- Customer:
- Thomas from Middlebury, IN
- Parts Used:
- WB2X9154
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Oven did not heat
I took all of the oven racks out , then the bottom cover, over the element. I immediately saw the igniter coil was broken. I took the element out and disconnected the two wires. (I saw that the igniter coil was broken and knew that must be my problem. I got my manual out and found the part number and got on line and started shopping. I found part select, the price was fair and ordered it the same day. It was shipped out to me the same day I ordered it. Received it the next day and had the oven working again. Easy to order, great customer service, fast shipping department. Great job to all of you folks at Part Select. I would recommend PS to anyone that wants to save money and do it yourself. Go for it. tk middlebury IN.
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- Customer:
- Roscoe G from ROCHESTER, NY
- Parts Used:
- 40A15
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Light burnt out.
Turned the wire protector to the side. Turned out the old bulb and replaced it with the new. Turned the wire protector back in place and I'm like new.
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