JGB400DEP4BB General Electric Range - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Ken from Painted Post, NY
- Parts Used:
- WB27K10355
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
Oven would not come up to temp/retain at temp
Very simple repair, removed the back plate, took off the 4 screws holding the controler panel on, swapped over the wires one at a time, and reinstalled. Less than 15 min total time.
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- Customer:
- George from LANSDALE, PA
- Parts Used:
- WB20K10027
- Difficulty Level:
- Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
Replaced temperature sensor
un-screw temperature sensor, have to move racks and door, then open back cover board to disconnect the sensor.
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- Customer:
- Daniel from Espanola, NM
- Parts Used:
- WB13K21
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Wrench set
Replace glowbar igniter
Removed the old glowbar's two screws. Didn't take a mental photo of its proper placcement (or a real one, which would've been smart). Removed screws holding 1) a heat protection plate, and 2) wire harness plate. Installed the new glowbar, hopefully, the right way - with its heat-plate facing the gasline of the over/broiler. Reinstalled the heat protection plate and wire harness plate. Hasn't blown up yet!
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- Customer:
- Jim from muskegon, MI
- Parts Used:
- WB27K10355
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
main controll panel quit operating oven
bought new panel and installed and looking @ wire connections from old control, I'm very much mechanically inclined , so was a breeze for me, but non handy people may not know how to disassemble the control panel without not having an idea how it's made. I'm a "mr fix it", "jack of all trades" kinda guy and am proud of it.
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- Customer:
- Akshay from Bridgeton, NJ
- Parts Used:
- WB16T10046
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Burner had uneven flames
Too easy a five year old could do it
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- Customer:
- Catherine from SEATTLE, WA
- Parts Used:
- 40A15
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
The light inside the oven had burned out
0. As a safety precaution, unplug the range or hit the relevant fuse breaker before you start. You might also want to grab a flashlight. Definitely do not try to do this while the oven is hot.
1. Pinch the wire over the light bulb cap to remove it. This is inside the oven at the back.
2. Pop off the hemispherical glass cap.
3. Unscrew the old light bulb, and screw the new light bulb in its place.
4. Put the cap back.
5. Secure the cap by putting the wire back in its slots on the cap.
No tools needed, the cap is just held in place with pressure from the wire.
1. Pinch the wire over the light bulb cap to remove it. This is inside the oven at the back.
2. Pop off the hemispherical glass cap.
3. Unscrew the old light bulb, and screw the new light bulb in its place.
4. Put the cap back.
5. Secure the cap by putting the wire back in its slots on the cap.
No tools needed, the cap is just held in place with pressure from the wire.
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- Customer:
- Dan from WARROAD, MN
- Parts Used:
- WB16K10062
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
burner had hot spots where the matieral melted some cause a distorted flame that would spit sputter
Remove the top grate and remove the top burner plate and then pull the burner out and remove the torx screw and adapter install onto the new burner and place back on the stove , good to go.
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- Customer:
- Karin from ARUNDEL, ME
- Parts Used:
- WB16K10062
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Gas burner wasn’t burning properly
I ordered the new burner head and replaced it and now it works perfectly.
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- Customer:
- Richard from Mt Solon, VA
- Parts Used:
- WB13K21
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Part will wear out after a couple of years
In my case it was the lower burner so I unplugged oven and turned gas off.
Then I removed the bottom drawer, and the lower burner cover.
Next unplug Oven Igniter, found where drawer existed.
Removed 2 screws attaching Igniter using nutdriver
Placed new Igniter on
Plug Igniter in and tested oven
Replace burner cover and drawer
This was much easier then what I went through with a repair man the first time around. These Igniter are designed for certain model stoves and are not interchangable with other model stoves!!!
Then I removed the bottom drawer, and the lower burner cover.
Next unplug Oven Igniter, found where drawer existed.
Removed 2 screws attaching Igniter using nutdriver
Placed new Igniter on
Plug Igniter in and tested oven
Replace burner cover and drawer
This was much easier then what I went through with a repair man the first time around. These Igniter are designed for certain model stoves and are not interchangable with other model stoves!!!
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- Customer:
- William from South Bristol, ME
- Parts Used:
- WB13K21
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
Oven wouldn't heat
In general, other repair stories on this site collectively give a good description of the repair process. My words concern the decision that has to be made as to which element is bad - igniter or gas valve. To reach a conclusion about this question, I was comforted by the fact that I could measure the AC electric current through the gas valve which then let me decide that my problem was in the igniter. Since the circuit is a simple series with three elements, thermostat, igniter, and valve and the resistance of the valve unit was 1.0 to 1.2 ohms (per GE range equipment instruction which came with the range) by measuring the AC volts across the valve, I found (by dividing the volts AC across the gas valve (2.3 volts) by the resistance of the valve mechanism (1.0 ohms) that my old igniter was only supplying 2.3 AC amperes (instruction sheet states 2.9 amps. is needed to actuate the valve and further while heating of the oven is occurring the valve AC current will raise to 3.2 to 3.6 amps.). At 2.3 amps. the igniter will glow at a yellow color but will not actuate the valve. When you replace the old igniter with a new one you will enjoy to measure voltage across the gas valve once again and discover that the voltage rises to 2.9 volts and that the gas turns on and the heater tube gas is ignited.
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- Customer:
- Charlotte from CHICAGO, IL
- Parts Used:
- WB35X37973
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Existing oven bottom was damaged.
Removed two screws to remove old bottom. Insert new oven bottom and re-attach screws.
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- Customer:
- Solomon A from COLLEGE PARK, GA
- Parts Used:
- WB16T10046
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
The eye would not light
Remove the existing burner and install the replacement.
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- Customer:
- Patricia from SAN JOSE, CA
- Parts Used:
- WB48T10095
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
oven racks very old and writing on knobs worn ff
Very was ti replace racks and knobs. Very fast mail service
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- Customer:
- Gary from ROCKY POINT, NC
- Parts Used:
- WB13K21
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Igniter was glowing but would not light the oven.
Step 1 pull the broiler completely out of the bottom of the oven. Step 2 unplug the igniter Step 3 remove 3 small screws to pull the burner tube completely out of the oven. Step 4 replace the igniter and repeat steps to install burner tube back into the oven.
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- Customer:
- Gerald from WINTERVILLE, GA
- Parts Used:
- 40A15
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
lights blown out
replaced lights in refrigirator and freezer
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