JGB290MEN2BS General Electric Range - Instructions

I first removed the oven door. I then took out the racks and removed the oven bottom. It slips out easily however, you need to take the door off. The burner cover came next. I used the 3/8 nut driver to remove the four screws. This exposed the burner and electric igniter. Two screws hold the burner tube in place. I recommend removing the burner tube due to the screws holding the ignitor will more than likely need to be cut off. Once the tube is out and you have disconnected the plug for the ignitor you will need to check the voltage at the plug (120 VAC). Place the voltage meter test leads in the oven side of the ignitor plug and set the oven to heat up. If everything is OK the meter should read 120 Volts AC. Turn the oven off and remove the leads. Take the old ignitor off the burner tube and replace it with the new ignitor and plug it back into the oven. Push the plug and wires back into the hole in the burner well and put the burner back in the oven well. Once it is all back in and bolted down try the oven again to verify the ignitor works. Replace the remaining oven parts in reverse order of removal.

Needed to replace the part in oven which lights the gas. My husband is more of a supervisor rather than a fix it yourself kind of guy. But he did it and it was hilarious watching him squeeze in a place meant for a smaller person with tiny hands, while holding the flashlight in his mouth. But the oven is fixed and works like brand new. Thank you

Start by removing all screws 3 for each burner total of 15 t-15 bit is required then proceed to remove spark igniters 5 total slight pull next step would be to slide a screwdriver under top left and right side to remove top shelf. There you will have access to the parts you need to replace. When done just reverse installation instructions to complete

This is a wall mounted oven. Quickly removed the door off hinges (no tools needed). Removed two mounting philips head screws from old igniter. Pulled on wires from the old igniter from back of oven to expose connectors. Disconnected the old igniter. Because the new igniter had a different type of connector, I had to cut connectors off the oven wires as well as the new igniter and use the provided wire nuts. I stuffed the wires back into the back wall of the oven and repositioned the insulation, secured the new igniter and put the door back on. Job done, oven works fine.

Removed lower oven panel and replaced oven igniter.

Took out bottom of oven, took apart burner & cover. Replace the igniter, , put back together. BAM

I went on youtube and found videos for similar problems. Then was shown how to test the part to confirm if it was good or bad. After testing with an amp meter I confirmed that the ignighter was bad. I ordered the part and got it in 3 days. I put in the new ignighter turned on the oven and placed inside the oven a temperature gage, when the timer rang on the stove confirming that the oven was up to temperature, I opened the oven door and the temperature gage read 350 deg. exactly the temperature I had set. So for under 50.00 I fixed the oven, a service call would of been 80.00 plus parts. Thanks for the help. Bob Murphy

Removed oven door and warming tray. Then removed two screws holding the igniter in place. Disconnect the plug visible below the oven after warming tray removal. Installed new igniter in reverse order.

My husband replaced it within 15 minutes,was easy. We ordered the part on a Sunday and had it by Tuesday. Very fast.

thank you

I was sure happy that they thought to add in the ceramic wire nuts. This Hotpoint stove had a direct wire, no wire clips like the new part had. I cut the wires and used the enclosed ceramic wire nuts. The stove works great. Parts Select helped in locating the model number which made this transaction a smooth one. Thanks. Always remember to turn off gas line and unplug any item you work on.

Had to use the wire nuts because the plug did not fit.
I used the old plug and spliced the wires.Thanks for the ceramic wire nuts.

Although the original oven design called for a round igniter, the most recent replacement, done by a service mechanic, utilized a flat igniter. I compared the appearance of this flat igniter to the igniters offered by PartSelect and found that the GE igniter (not the Roper which cost twice as much) matched exactly. I installed it and that solved the problem (of insufficient igniter heat to turn on the gas).

Replaced the ignitor in the broiler. Two screws holding the ignitor in place and two to the cover holding the quick connect plug.

removed the old part .I had to join the new part by clipping the clip off and us the ceramic caps which was included with the new part.Everything went well.

Every part of the part replacement was easy with the exception of removing one of the two screws that were holding the igniter to gas bar. No fault of the part to be replaced in any way. One of the screws that hold the igniter to the gas bar stripped when I was attempting to remove it. Had to use a small cut off wheel and my dremel to cut the screw and then was able to remove it by screwing it all the way through the hole it was in. Then tapped the two existing screw holes to 10/32 and attached the igniter with new screws. Everything else was about as easy as you can get.