JBP62BM4WH General Electric Range - Instructions

I began by turning off the breaker in the panel.
Slide the oven out into the open area.
Removed 3 screws in order to remove rear top panel.
Took 2 pictures of the wiring location on the PCB
Removed all wiring going to the circuit board total of 8.
Removed 4 screws in order to remove bad PCB.
Remove faceplate from bad PCB (you will need to place this faceplate on the new PCB.

To Install.
Reverse steps above

I watched a video of a similar model to familiarize myself with the required steps needed. I opened the back and disconnected the power cord and ground wires connected to the removable socket I then removed the lightbulb and removable socket from the oven interior side. I then removed the defective light socket cup and replaced it with the part I purchased. After replacing the removable socket and lightbulb, the bracket holding the light cover functioned perfectly with the new light socket cup. Final steps were to reconnect the power and ground wires to the removable socket. I then replaced the back cover over the light socket cup area. One word of advise. Be very careful when removing and reconnecting the cables to the removable light socket.

I removed the door by unclipping the hinges with a screwdriver - very easy. I laid the door on the kitchen island unit on the polystryrene packaging. I removed all of the star bolts. I need not have removed the star bolts around the door hinges as these hold the hinges to the inner frame. The cracked double glazed unit lifted out and was replaced very easily. We took the opportunity to clean all of the parts that don't usually get cleaned - hence the time taken. Reassembly and reattaching the door was very easy. We didn't rush and were very careful in laying the door on a good flat surface. The oven is now good as new. Well done PartSelect for stocking such an old part - $125 to keep the range working perfectly.

PULL RANGE OUT FROM WALL & ALSO REMOVED OVEN DOOR BY SLIDING UP. WORKING FROM INSIDE OVEN & ALSO BEHIND I REPLACED PART . ALWAYS " UNPLUG " RANGE BEFORE YOU START.

THE TWO 8' ROUND HEATING ELEMENT
1. LIFT THE LID OF THE STOVE FROM THE SIDE. SOMETIMES YOU MIGHT HAVE TO PRY IT A LOOSE. BE CAREFUL HOW YOU LIFT IT FROM THE BOTH SIDES WITH A FLAT SCREWDRIVER.
2. BECAREFUL HOW YOU PRY THE WIRING FROM THE OLD HEATING ELEMENT. THE WIRING IS FRAGILE. REMEMBER THE STEPS YOU TOOK TO TAKE A LOOSE THE OLD ONE. I HAD MY SON TO HELP ME BECAUSE I FIRST PULL THE CLAMP BACK WITH THE SCREWDRIVER AND HAD HIM TO HOLD IT TO OLD ONE STILL HOOK UP TO THE WIRING. I PLACE THE NEW ONE IN THE CLIP. THEN I TOOK ONE WIRING AT A TIME TO THE NEW ONE.

Took top of stove off, disconnected the heating element, re-installed the new element and now my stove works fine.

Easy

Using a set of nut drivers, I unscrewed the element from the back of the stove, I unscrewed the thermometer, and unscrewed the brackets holding the element to the top of the oven compartment.

After the element was free, I pulled it out of the back of the oven, exposing the wiring. Using pliers, I disconnected the two wires, retrieved the new element, and re-connected the wires to the new element.

I reconnected the thermometer, pushed the element back into the oven, reattached it to the back of the oven and the brackets to the top of the oven compartment.

removed 2 screws that hold the cover in place, inserted the new panel at the bottom, pushed top in place and reapplied the 2 screws.

Pull range away from back wall. Remove panel behind control knobs by removing the screws that hold it on. Find hot burner light that holds lens. Remove broken part of lens. Insert new lens into hole on front of control panel and into hot burner light receptacle. Replace back panel. Slide range back into place.

popped the new one on!

Turned the wire protector to the side. Turned out the old bulb and replaced it with the new. Turned the wire protector back in place and I'm like new.

As many people have encountered, my oven would not heat but the igniter would be bright orange and glow! Over time, the igniter wears and degrades causing oxidation to the surface. This cause the igniter to fail and operate at a lower current level, below 2.8 amps! Normal igniters operator over 3.0 to 3.1 amps. When is happens, a low current igniter does not have enough input to the control valve to tell the valve to open to allow gas to flow over the igniter to light the oven, thus heat the oven! This has got to be the NUMBER one reason for an oven not heating!

replaced oven clock control ref maintenance manual, 4 screws and 8 wires. plugged in new control and op checks good.

Unplugged oven, turned off breaker, took cover off back of oven, removed old sensor by disconnecting in back of oven and undoing screw inside oven. Pulled old one out replaced with new took 15min. Cost me less than $20. Parts Select rocks! Even received part in two days with standard shipping!