JB3000R2WW General Electric Range - Instructions

Take off 6 screws of back cover of the range, unplug the white wire. Go to the inside of oven, pull out racks. At the top of the oven is your Broiler element, in the center you will see a rod sticking out with one screw holding it in place. Take out screw and pull temperature sensor out toward you. Reverse steps to put it back together.

This one is simple. unscrew a portion of the door, install the spacer and screw back together. Worked well.

Unplug stove. Remove two screws holding down cooktop located on oven side just under cooktop front edge. Lift cooktop and prop up exposing underside. Suggest taking phone picture, making drawing or labeling of wire connections of the affected element. Use pliers to pull wire terminal clips off element blade connectors.The underside of element frame pans have number scale at the peripheries. Remove the single screw of clip mount on old pan and remove old burner. Transfer the old mounting hardware and clips to the new element pan by installing them at the corresponding number locations. Remount new burner by loosening that single screw clip to allow easier install and positioning. Tighten screw. Reconnect wires to corresponding blades. Lower cooktop. I plugged stove in to test at this point (optional). Re-install the two screws located on ovenside cooktop edge. Plug in stove. Complete!

This was simple enough to repair for me, a relative novice. Just remember you need a nut driver to take the back panel off, take a photo of the existing board so you remember which wires go where, and you definitely need a hair dryer to heat up the sticker on the old board so you can remove it and put it on the new board.

PULL RANGE OUT FROM WALL & ALSO REMOVED OVEN DOOR BY SLIDING UP. WORKING FROM INSIDE OVEN & ALSO BEHIND I REPLACED PART . ALWAYS " UNPLUG " RANGE BEFORE YOU START.

Easy

Pull range away from back wall. Remove panel behind control knobs by removing the screws that hold it on. Find hot burner light that holds lens. Remove broken part of lens. Insert new lens into hole on front of control panel and into hot burner light receptacle. Replace back panel. Slide range back into place.

Pulled stove out to access back panel. Unscrew broken switch/stem. Replaced each wire one at a time to make sure they went in right spot. Screw in new switch. Replaced back panel.

First, the part was an EXACT fit - what a relief. Thanks PartSelect! Teh oven door had to be taken apart a bit, but once I found the right nut wrench, it went smoothly. Having another set of hands really helped.

removed 2 screws that hold the cover in place, inserted the new panel at the bottom, pushed top in place and reapplied the 2 screws.

popped the new one on!

the part was an exact fit. the instalation of the product was very easy. I just removed the 4 hex bolts and 2 star head bolts and reattached. Instalation took about 10 minutes.

As many people have encountered, my oven would not heat but the igniter would be bright orange and glow! Over time, the igniter wears and degrades causing oxidation to the surface. This cause the igniter to fail and operate at a lower current level, below 2.8 amps! Normal igniters operator over 3.0 to 3.1 amps. When is happens, a low current igniter does not have enough input to the control valve to tell the valve to open to allow gas to flow over the igniter to light the oven, thus heat the oven! This has got to be the NUMBER one reason for an oven not heating!

replaced oven clock control ref maintenance manual, 4 screws and 8 wires. plugged in new control and op checks good.

Unplugged oven, turned off breaker, took cover off back of oven, removed old sensor by disconnecting in back of oven and undoing screw inside oven. Pulled old one out replaced with new took 15min. Cost me less than $20. Parts Select rocks! Even received part in two days with standard shipping!