JB680DP1BB General Electric Range - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Thomas from Albuquerque, NM
- Parts Used:
- WB02T10017
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set
Convection fan came loose from shaft
Convection fan came loose from the shaft with a lout rattle and grinding as the fan spun down. Had to remove four metal screws to remove the fan cover. Initially tried to just put the nut back on to hold the fan. However, I could not get the nut to start, so I assumed that threads were stripped on the nut or the shaft. Ordered the replacement nut, hoping that it was the nut that was the problem. However, I had the same problem with the new nut. I could see no damage on the shaft. It finally occurred to me that the nut and shaft had left-hand threads (counter-clockwise to tighten). At that point, it was extremely easy to put the nut back on and tighten it. I did not try using the old nut, since I had already received the new one, but I'm certain that if I had come to that realization earlier, I could have saved time and money. So, if you have the same problem, try putting the nut on "backwards."
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- Customer:
- Joe from Harkers Is., NC
- Parts Used:
- WB21X22134
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Oven slow to heat up
Removed oven door. Removed 2 screws from heat sensor on rear upper wall of oven. Pulled unit out to access rear of unit. Removed six screws on shield on back of unit. Dis connected heat sensor wire and pulled old sensor through from inside of oven. Feed wire of new sensor through from inside and plug in. Everything in reverse. I also had the gas(propane) company come out and check the pressure coming out of the "low pres." regulator. It was low, they changed the regulator.
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- Customer:
- Daryl from Savannah, TN
- Parts Used:
- WB27X45466
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers
Bad control board
Removed top back plate of oven. unpluged all of the wiring plugs on the control board. Removed two screws on the control board. Removed face plate from old control board and put it on the new control board. Atteched new board with the two screws. Connected all of the plugs to new board ( all plugs are color coded to board). Re-installed oven back plate. Pluged oven in. Works great.
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- Customer:
- James from Stuart, VA
- Parts Used:
- WB02X33180
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Plastic slide for storage drawer broken.
Took part out of package, looked at instructions and followed them. Required a screwdriver to screw part on to the drawer.
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- Customer:
- lynn from sunnyside, NY
- Parts Used:
- WB21X22134
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers
F2 reading
Followed the instructions that were sent to me by E-Mail.
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- Customer:
- Gerald from Plantsville, CT
- Parts Used:
- WB27X45466
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Shorted Control Unit -
Control unit was easy to remove ,wires color coded-the face plate(key pad) needed to be separated from the old unit. Carefully used a hair dryer to warm the decal. . . Secured the old unit gently in a vise, warmed ( and separated slowly, with a razor blade and thin putty knife(patience). . Once removed, applied to the new unit. . . 5 Stars to partselect for service. . . . Turned a $400 repair into $100 do-it your self. Partselect will be my 1st "go to" from now-on.
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- Customer:
- Keith from Annapolis, MD
- Parts Used:
- WB21X22134
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Socket set
The oven temperature could not be controlled
Disconnect the range from the mains. Open the door. Remove the single screw holding the temperature sensor - this is located on the back wall on center and is screwed to the broiler mounting plate. Remove the four screws holding the boiler element and allow it to hang down on the wire; this exposes a space to feed the wire through later. Now move to the back of the range and remove the six screws that hold the central cover plate. Now push the insulation to up out of the way and you can disconnect the temperature sensor, pull it out through front, insert the new one and connect it. Reassemble in the reverse order. Mine worked perfectly!
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- Customer:
- brendan from lebanon, NH
- Parts Used:
- WB17T10011
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
one leg of the terminal block was loose and overheated under load.the terminal block melted and could have caused a fire.
I took a picture of the setup and damage . I then disconnected the burnt wires and replaced the wires . Then I installed the new terminal block and connected the wires to the proper positions. The reason for the failure was that the delivery people didn't tighten the cord when they installed the stove . I would check the connections periodically as to avoid another situation like this .
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- Customer:
- Leon from Cullowhee, NC
- Parts Used:
- WB27X45466
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers
The electronic board controls failed to illuminate or work after very strong power surge associated with lightening. The stove top burners still worked fine but not the clock and controlls for the oven.
I found a video on Youtube with a similar circuit board repair and decided that I could probably do it. First and most important is to be certain the range is disconnected from its electric circuit. I did this by turning off the breaker at the electrical panel and then unplugging the range. Second, I removed a panel (four screws) on the back of my stove to expose the circuit board, Next I removed the board (four screws) without disconnecting the wiring. Then I removed the flexible plastic covering from the board which has the control button identities on it. This was the most difficult part because the glue was very sticky and I did not want to tear the cover. After removal, I stuck the plastic covering (still sticky) onto the new circuit board and made sure the buttons were in the correct position. Then, I unplugged the wires one at a time from the old circuit board and made sure I plugged them into the new board in the correct position. Finally, I reattached the new board and the back panel on the stove. This repair was easy and no problem for the average "do it yourself" type.
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- Customer:
- Kenneth from Salem, OR
- Parts Used:
- WB21X22134
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Flashing F2 and erratic temperature readings.
Unplugged from wall outlet, then opened oven front door. Reached in and removed two screws. Pulled oven sensor threw and detached electrical connector from old sensor. Plugged in new oven sensor and reversed removal procedure. No more Flashing F2 and oven temperature came to ready. Very easy.
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- Customer:
- Robert from Woodinville, WA
- Parts Used:
- WB02X33180
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Our bottom drawer support broke and the bottom drawer was canted
Simply removed drawer and lined up the newsupports. Made sure the guide pin was lined up and installed with single screw
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- Customer:
- Kenneth from Bradenton, FL
- Parts Used:
- WB27X45466
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
Mother board was blown
Purchased the board installed it and saved about 130 dollars.
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- Customer:
- Joseph from Powell, OH
- Parts Used:
- WB07X42966
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Part rusted ... Looked bad.
Fit like a glove.
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- Customer:
- Wallace from Demorest,, GA
- Parts Used:
- WB27X45466
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Bottom Heating Element not heating up.
I miss diagnosed the situation at first. When the top element only heated up I thought the control was the problem. Wrong. Apparently both elements heat up during initial start up. It turned out that the bottom element was not working so it needed to be replaced rather then the control. Now both are replaced and the oven is now back to original status. Entire repair cost about $80. I saved over $100 by attempting this myself. Easy fix. Obviously I am not a pro. My local hardware store had a generic heating element that worked just fine and only cost $22. Two screws to repair after removing the back panel. Remember to pull the plug before you begin and after the repair put all panels back on before plugging back in. Pizza anyone?
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- Customer:
- Richard from Newark, DE
- Parts Used:
- WB02X33180
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Range lower drawer would not stay on track.
Easy to install replacement parts using the screws provided.
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