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JB680DP1BB General Electric Range - Instructions

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All Instructions for the JB680DP1BB
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Customer:
Dave from DANDRIDGE, TN
Parts Used:
WB08T10023
Difficulty Level:
Very Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Oven light burned out
Wait until oven is cold. Turn off power to the oven at the breaker panel (confirm: clock will be off). Open oven door. Remove upper rack. Unscrew glass cover over lamp and socket (it only turns one direction and may be tight). Slide cover off lamp socket. Remove old lamp - pull straight down. Install replacement lamp. Lamp pins line up front to back. Do not touch the lamp - use latex gloves. Make sure the lamp is fully pushed into its socket. Replace the glass cover by centering it on the socket with glass retaining tabs close to the matching areas on the metal socket. Take care not to damage the lamp. Turn the cover to lock in place. Make sure it is locked. Replace oven rack. Turn the power back on.
9 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
David from SANTA CLARA, CA
Parts Used:
WB27X45466
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Pliers
No clock, oven control buttons don't work, stove top work ok, tested power was ok to the control board.
Removed back panel screws, removed back panel, removed screws of the control board, remove control board, heated glue and tore off plastic face plate, placed face plate on new control board, installed new control board, moved wires from old control board to new control board, test out oven, reinstalled back panel
9 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
angel from ROSETO, PA
Parts Used:
WB24T10165
Difficulty Level:
Very Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver
the switch that changes my burner from small to large depending on the pot you are using
3 bolts the back comes right off and I always take a picture so you don't confuse your wires the part pops right off 2 wires and that's it test to se if it works buckle everything back up and your done
9 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Micheal from SHEPHERDSVLLE, KY
Parts Used:
WB56T10105
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Inner oven door glass broke
Pull the old one put in the new one ... took about 20 minutes
9 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Dinah from Juneau, AK
Parts Used:
WB21X22134
Difficulty Level:
Very Difficult
Total Repair Time:
More than 2 hours
Tools:
Socket set
Oven on range did not work properly
My oven bake element melted one day. I had my husband replace it and for a short while it worked. Then it quit but then our broil element would not shut off. My husband said that it might be the heat sensor. We checked here in town and that element cost over $80. Since we have order from Parts Select before we decide to do so again. When we received the heat sensor my husband replaced it taking out the original heat sensor. This did not work as the broil element still would not turn off. I call the repair man and I found out that the initial melt down of the bake element also effected the main circut board that had to e replaced.
10 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Cindy from Murrells Inlet, SC
Parts Used:
WB21X22134
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver
Oven not holding a consistant temperature. Found the replacement part easily on you website.Thanks to your photo.
First turned off power at breaker box. Pulled stove out to remove the half dozen hex screws on the back panel.(some nuts were stripped)Removed old oven sensor inside oven held by one hex screw and replaced it with the new part. Oven works great now! Repair job was done by husband Mike.
10 of 14 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Tiffany from Denver, CO
Parts Used:
WB02X33180
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Socket set
Storage Drawer rear support broken
Tried GE onoine parts department first and ordered the wrong part, then tried the customer hotline and they referred me to the right part but didn't explain that the design had been modified (the drawings had not been updated). I found an explanation on Part Select AND the parts were cheaper. Part Select sent the part, the necessary screw, and an appropriate instruction manual. Each support took less than a minute to screw in with a socket wrench.
8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
John from Gaston, OR
Parts Used:
WB27X45466
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Cooktop oil fire melted plastic parts; control defaced
Some of the original TO-9 switches were fused by the heat. I made them functional again with a cutter on a rotary tool, but to make the repair properly, I ordered the new control unit and the faceplate graphics. Note the guide tabs at the bottom and right edges when replacing the graphics. Don't plan on reusing your old graphics (unless you are a wizard at removing the very strong adhesive).
To gain access to the part, remove the 2 screws (part 715) in the bottom of the control assembly with a stubby screwdriver. Using a nut driver, remove the two screws (part 1000) on the back at the corners, being careful not to drop them behind the oven. Pull out at the bottom, then move the whole unit toward you. Note the position of the wires. A digital photo can help here. Remove the wiring and 4 screws holding the clear plastic TO-9. Put the screws in the new unit in the same holes and rewire. Put the assembly in place top-first and align the screw holes. Finding the same thread placement for the lower screws can be tricky, so start them gently.
12 of 22 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Diane from BUTLER, PA
Parts Used:
WB21X22134
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Socket set
Heat sensor malfunction
Disconnect power, then remove racks from oven, locate heat sensor by the broiler element. Use ratchet with extension and correct socket to remove the bolt directly under the heat sensor, pull the sensor out till you see the plug, disconnect the plug and then connect new sensor to it push wire back thru and then rebolt the new sensor on, thats it...
6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Joseph from LIBERTY HILL, TX
Parts Used:
WB21X22134
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver
Oven in accurate temp too low.
Open the oven , remove one screw holding the sensor remove the sensor and replace the sensor.
6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Mary from Bolton, MA
Parts Used:
WB21X22134
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Socket set
When inspecting the back of my oven I noticed the cable had been pushed under (my guess from the mouse I found electrocuted where the power lines come in) and was touching one of the element prongs which burned the covering.
Not counting unplugging it and taking off the 3 back panels of the oven (< 5 min.) It took < 2min. to change out. Unclipped cable in back, unscrewed one screw inside of oven at top between the two elements and pulled cable through to front, reversed to attach new sensor. Buttoned up the back, plugged back in and was good to go.
6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Glenn from Grapevine, TX
Parts Used:
WB21X22134
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver
Oven temperature would not go above 240 degrees
Pulled the oven out and unplugged it. Removed five screws and the back cover. Disconnected the electrical connection. Removed one screw and pulled the sensor out. Installed the sensor and screw. Made the electrical connection on the back, replaced the cover and five screws. Plugged the electrical cord back in and tested the oven temperature compared to the setting. Worked great. My wife then made a small batch of muffins to test it out and they were good.
6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
John from Sandy Hook, CT
Parts Used:
WB02X33180
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver
One of the drawer supports broke off
I pulled out the drawer and inserted the new support. This one inserts into the back of the drawer as opposed to the sides. I had ordered two of the replacements even though I only needed one and decided to replace both. I think it was a good move as the drawer works better than when we first got it. Just one simple screw made it complete.
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Rose from BEND, OR
Parts Used:
WB56T10105
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Socket set
Replace window pack assembly
This door required a lot more screws to be removed in order to remove the inside window assembly. I counted a total of 19 screws. That is why the estimated time is 30-60 minutes.

- remove door from range following the basic guide to removing any range door.
- place door on work surface with the outside facing down.
- remove three 1/4 socket screws from bottom and two star screws on top.
- Flip door over, remove outer door panel and set aside.
- There will be a separate pane of glass that needs to be removed. Remove 1/4 socket screws holding glass and set aside.
- Slide door over your work surface edge so you can remove the star screws holding the door hinges (from underneath). You could flip the door over but the door would have to be flipped back once the hinges were removed.
- Remove the remaining 1/4 screws holding the aluminum shielding.
- Remove the shielding being careful not to disturb the insulation around the window.
- Remove the damaged window. Take note of the writing and orientation on the aluminum window frame. (upper right if hinges were on the bottom)
- Set the new window in its place.
- Reverse the process by replacing the aluminum shield, hinges, than internal glass pane.
- Set outer door on top and holding everything together, flip door.
- Tighten the two star screws on top and the three 1/4 socket screws on the bottom.
- Replace door. Don't forget to lift up those hinge tabs before trying to close the door.
All done. Pat yourself on the back for a job well done.
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Brian from DOVER, PA
Parts Used:
WB17T10011
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver
Original terminal block plastic shielding melted, protecting appliance when the wires overheated.
Safety first * Unplugged 220 VAC from outlet. Removed shield cover screws with 1/4" hex nut driver (5 screws). Removed all 6 silver screws from terminal block with 1/4" nut driver, freeing all wires. Removed the green ground screw and ground bracket from center terminal. Cut away (using the drill) melted original terminal block plastic to access the 2 black 1/4" nuts holding original terminal block onto appliance. Discarded the original damaged terminal block. Attached the new terminal block, aligning the mounting holes and the terminal block the same way the original terminal block was lined up and re-used the black 1/4" nuts (original used because the replacement package did not include new black screws). I bought a new appliance cord, since the original cord overheated. Reattached all wires using the 6 new silver screws. Start with the middle terminal by attaching the appliance wires and the ground bracket. The ground must be attached to the bracket and the bracket bridges between the terminal block and the range body. Reattached shield cover. Plugged in appliance. Note: it doesn't matter which outside wire attaches to the outside terminals (both are hot), but the middle wire (neutral) must attach to the middle terminal. However, the ring terminal should be flush on the terminal block so you don't bend the ring.
5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
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All Instructions for the JB680DP1BB
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