JB650SP1SS General Electric Range - Instructions

I had to call for a appointment for repair with GE Appliance because I thought then it . .was something electrical. The technician came out & checked everything out, turned out it was not electrical, The technician went out to his truck got a light bulb from his truck, put it in & it worked. It cost me $121.00 for trip charge from GE appliance for a light bulb that worked, your light bulbs were defective twice. Very disappointed with your products, cost me alot of money for a good light bulb thru GE appliance

I just followed the instructions on the link provided with the part

Pulled the oven out and unplugged it. Removed five screws and the back cover. Disconnected the electrical connection. Removed one screw and pulled the sensor out. Installed the sensor and screw. Made the electrical connection on the back, replaced the cover and five screws. Plugged the electrical cord back in and tested the oven temperature compared to the setting. Worked great. My wife then made a small batch of muffins to test it out and they were good.

1) Turn off power at circuit breaker panel
2) Slide out Range from wall
3) Unplug Range
4) Remove back panel and unplug electrical connections to socket
5) From front of oven, remove glass cover over old oven light bulb and remove flange that holds socket and bulb
6) Remove old socket from mounting flange and discard.
7) Place new socket into mounting flange
8) Screw mounting flange and new socket into the oven from front. Reattach electrical connections from back.
9) Screw in new light bulb from front
10) Replace existing glass cover over new light bulb and snap wire holder in place
11) Replace back panel
11) Plug in range
12) Slide range back to original position
13) Turn on power
Works like a charm! Thanks for having the parts after 30 years!

This should have been a very easy fix. But, as I tried to pull out the old temperature sensor, the wire would not come out. I was afraid to pull too hard because I did not want to break the wire. So, I coxed it out easily until I could see the plastic connector. Then, the old wire pulled free from the connector leaving the end of the connector inside the back of the oven. I then had to fish the end of the wire around with the piece of wire through the very small hole in the back of the oven. Once I got it close to the hole, I was able to grab the connector with some needle nose plyers. Connecting the new sensor and reinstalling everything was easy and the oven now works just fine.

1.) I removed the old oven door gasket by taking out the ends of the gasket out of the bottom of the oven door first.
2.) Pry up on each one of the retainer clips, they easily pop out of their slots.
3.) Work your way around the oven door gasket.
4.) If any remain stuck you can just wiggle the clip around and it should pop out of each hole. If need be you could use pliers, but I did not need to.
5.) Take your new gasket, it should already have new clips, so you can throw away the old ones.
6.) Work your way around the oven door making sure the clips are nicely seated.
7.) Finish off by inserting the ends back into the 2 holes on each side of the bottom of the oven door, I just used a small spoon to make sure the tops were nicely placed in.
8.) If your gasket needs to compress, you can close the oven door and lock it that should hold it in place and compress it.
9.) All done!

This door required a lot more screws to be removed in order to remove the inside window assembly. I counted a total of 19 screws. That is why the estimated time is 30-60 minutes.

- remove door from range following the basic guide to removing any range door.
- place door on work surface with the outside facing down.
- remove three 1/4 socket screws from bottom and two star screws on top.
- Flip door over, remove outer door panel and set aside.
- There will be a separate pane of glass that needs to be removed. Remove 1/4 socket screws holding glass and set aside.
- Slide door over your work surface edge so you can remove the star screws holding the door hinges (from underneath). You could flip the door over but the door would have to be flipped back once the hinges were removed.
- Remove the remaining 1/4 screws holding the aluminum shielding.
- Remove the shielding being careful not to disturb the insulation around the window.
- Remove the damaged window. Take note of the writing and orientation on the aluminum window frame. (upper right if hinges were on the bottom)
- Set the new window in its place.
- Reverse the process by replacing the aluminum shield, hinges, than internal glass pane.
- Set outer door on top and holding everything together, flip door.
- Tighten the two star screws on top and the three 1/4 socket screws on the bottom.
- Replace door. Don't forget to lift up those hinge tabs before trying to close the door.
All done. Pat yourself on the back for a job well done.

Safety first * Unplugged 220 VAC from outlet. Removed shield cover screws with 1/4" hex nut driver (5 screws). Removed all 6 silver screws from terminal block with 1/4" nut driver, freeing all wires. Removed the green ground screw and ground bracket from center terminal. Cut away (using the drill) melted original terminal block plastic to access the 2 black 1/4" nuts holding original terminal block onto appliance. Discarded the original damaged terminal block. Attached the new terminal block, aligning the mounting holes and the terminal block the same way the original terminal block was lined up and re-used the black 1/4" nuts (original used because the replacement package did not include new black screws). I bought a new appliance cord, since the original cord overheated. Reattached all wires using the 6 new silver screws. Start with the middle terminal by attaching the appliance wires and the ground bracket. The ground must be attached to the bracket and the bracket bridges between the terminal block and the range body. Reattached shield cover. Plugged in appliance. Note: it doesn't matter which outside wire attaches to the outside terminals (both are hot), but the middle wire (neutral) must attach to the middle terminal. However, the ring terminal should be flush on the terminal block so you don't bend the ring.

Open the oven , remove one screw holding the sensor remove the sensor and replace the sensor.

Not counting unplugging it and taking off the 3 back panels of the oven (< 5 min.) It took < 2min. to change out. Unclipped cable in back, unscrewed one screw inside of oven at top between the two elements and pulled cable through to front, reversed to attach new sensor. Buttoned up the back, plugged back in and was good to go.

I am not the handiest person in the world, and this repair was easy even for me. If you suspect that the temperature sensor is the problem, do yourself a favor and buy this inexpensive replacement part and install it yourself prior to calling a professional who will charge a service fee just for checking it out. Pull your oven out from the wall so you can access the back. Unscrew the small nuts on the back to remove the sheet metal cover. Find the wire that goes to the sensor and unplug the plastic coupling. In the oven, unscrew the one nut that secures the sensor to the back wall of the oven. Pull the broken sensor out and replace it with the new sensor. Feed the wire through to the back and plug the new sensor into the same wire that was just disconnected. Reinstall all of the nuts. Do a "test cook" on some frozen food to ensure that the temperature seems correct (i.e., does it cook as expected in the recommended amount of time). The actual repair takes less than five minutes. I put "30-60 minutes" to account for unplugging the oven, pulling it out, removing the screws, replacing the screws, pushing it back in, and testing the temperature.

Replaced control panel after removing original control panel facing with heat gun and Wala

Replaced

I pulled out the drawer and inserted the new support. This one inserts into the back of the drawer as opposed to the sides. I had ordered two of the replacements even though I only needed one and decided to replace both. I think it was a good move as the drawer works better than when we first got it. Just one simple screw made it complete.

Removed the oven door and shelves. Moved the oven out from wall, so that I could access the rear panel. Unplugged the oven. Removed the five (5) screws holding the rear panel in place and removed the panel. Disconnected the sensor at the connector. Removed the screw holding the sensor in place inside the oven and removed the sensor. Theaded the sensor wire through the rear of the oven wall. Installed the sensor and screw to hold it in place. Snapped the connector from the sensor to the mating connector at the rear of the oven. Installed the rear panel. Installed the five (5) screws to hold the panel. Plugged the oven back in and slide the oven back to the wall. Installed the oven shelves and the oven door.