JB640DR1WW General Electric Range - Instructions

No parts dealer had a window for this particular oven door. But the associate at Part Select helped me find one that was the right dimensions. The internet videos I found describing installation of a GE oven glass window all described a glass held in place with brackets that don't exist on this model. The broken window was obviously held in place by adhesive. I found a video showing installation a Whirlpool oven window. The construction of the door seemed very similar to mine and the video explained how to attach the window inside the door with high temperature resistant double sided tape. I used Gizhome 3M Double sided Tap. I set door flat on a table unscrewed all the screw (two different size torque screws and 3 screws with nut tops) that held the outer cover to the door. Then I used a putty knife to scrap the old adhesive from the outer door frame. The top of the window is held in place by the metal panel behind the oven door handle. In order to slip the glass under the metal panel I slightly loosened two small screws that held the metal to the door frame. When the door handle is reinstalled it will hold the panel in place. I attached a strip of double sided tape across the entire area that I had scraped adhesive from. I added a short strip of double sided tap on both sides of the window frame, (I'm not certain that was a good idea). I carefully slipped the glass under the metal panel and lowered it to the frame while watching for exact fit. When I tightened the large door handle screws they tightened the metal snugly against the glass. I clamped the glass to the frame at the bottum and placed several bottles of water as weights along the sides of the frame and let the adhesive cure for 24 hours. The project took me several hours because of all the research I had to do. I was thankful for the parts associate's help finding a comparable window.

I watched a video of a similar model to familiarize myself with the required steps needed. I opened the back and disconnected the power cord and ground wires connected to the removable socket I then removed the lightbulb and removable socket from the oven interior side. I then removed the defective light socket cup and replaced it with the part I purchased. After replacing the removable socket and lightbulb, the bracket holding the light cover functioned perfectly with the new light socket cup. Final steps were to reconnect the power and ground wires to the removable socket. I then replaced the back cover over the light socket cup area. One word of advise. Be very careful when removing and reconnecting the cables to the removable light socket.

First of all, there are FOUR panes of glass on the oven door and two different sizes. Make sure you're ordering the right pane. We initially got the wrong one and had to return/reorder.

Took door off hinges and set on table. Removed almost all screws. Two at the top are very long and almost spring loaded -- this was helpful when putting it back together.
When removing the layers, keep track of what/where screws are placed. Some are star-hole-head, some are hex-head (socket). Work slowly and carefully so as not to break additional panes of glass. Leave plenty of room in your workspace to set items aside while you get to the innermost part of the door.

For this part #, it's deep in the door layers and surrounded by fiberglass. Wear gloves so you're not itchy later. This part acts as a double-pane with a narrow aluminum frame around the two pieces of glass. Be careful not to bend the frame when removing the broken piece. One corner of the frame also has a hook-n-hole closure. Take care to not bend the hook too much.

We wiped all the glass pieces off to get all fingerprints, smudges, and baked-on foods removed. Then we put the pieces/parts back -- a lot like a puzzle. Had the oven back up and running with no problems. It may take two people to get the door back on the hinges just because of the weight and awkward position they need to clamp back together.

I began by turning off the breaker in the panel.
Slide the oven out into the open area.
Removed 3 screws in order to remove rear top panel.
Took 2 pictures of the wiring location on the PCB
Removed all wiring going to the circuit board total of 8.
Removed 4 screws in order to remove bad PCB.
Remove faceplate from bad PCB (you will need to place this faceplate on the new PCB.

To Install.
Reverse steps above

This was simple enough to repair for me, a relative novice. Just remember you need a nut driver to take the back panel off, take a photo of the existing board so you remember which wires go where, and you definitely need a hair dryer to heat up the sticker on the old board so you can remove it and put it on the new board.

PULL RANGE OUT FROM WALL & ALSO REMOVED OVEN DOOR BY SLIDING UP. WORKING FROM INSIDE OVEN & ALSO BEHIND I REPLACED PART . ALWAYS " UNPLUG " RANGE BEFORE YOU START.

I took the oven door off. Laid it down on a blanket on the floor. I pulled up on end going into the door, then went around with fingers to feel where the clip were and grab the clip with my fingers and gently pulled up. Then grabbed the new gasket, found the center clip that goes at top of door and started pushing the clips in. The last was feeding the ends back into the slot in the door.

Pull range away from back wall. Remove panel behind control knobs by removing the screws that hold it on. Find hot burner light that holds lens. Remove broken part of lens. Insert new lens into hole on front of control panel and into hot burner light receptacle. Replace back panel. Slide range back into place.

Easy

Took top of stove off, disconnected the heating element, re-installed the new element and now my stove works fine.

First, the part was an EXACT fit - what a relief. Thanks PartSelect! Teh oven door had to be taken apart a bit, but once I found the right nut wrench, it went smoothly. Having another set of hands really helped.

removed 2 screws that hold the cover in place, inserted the new panel at the bottom, pushed top in place and reapplied the 2 screws.

popped the new one on!

the part was an exact fit. the instalation of the product was very easy. I just removed the 4 hex bolts and 2 star head bolts and reattached. Instalation took about 10 minutes.

As many people have encountered, my oven would not heat but the igniter would be bright orange and glow! Over time, the igniter wears and degrades causing oxidation to the surface. This cause the igniter to fail and operate at a lower current level, below 2.8 amps! Normal igniters operator over 3.0 to 3.1 amps. When is happens, a low current igniter does not have enough input to the control valve to tell the valve to open to allow gas to flow over the igniter to light the oven, thus heat the oven! This has got to be the NUMBER one reason for an oven not heating!