JD900CK4CC General Electric Range - Instructions

I removed the cooktop from the countertop and propped it up with 2 1x2's on each end. I removed the Torx screws that hold the glass in place. I set the glass aside. I then removed the screws holding the cover for the switches. I set the large central burner aside. I had to spray the screws holding the switch cover in place to loosen them. I then removed the defective left front switch and replaced the it with the GE Parts Select replacement switch. I then put everything back together. This Utube video was helpful although not my model number https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tmcUqpHNj3Q

After I removed the 2 screws holding the element to the rear wall, I was afraid to pull too hard on the wiring for fear of breaking something. However as I pulled on the connectors, I could see there was some wire that I could pull out through the insulation (maybe 1"). I put a clamp on each wire for fear it might slip back inside. I then disconnected the clips and reconnected to the replacement element, pushed the wiring & clips back, and replaced the 2 screws. I am a DIY guy, but 76 years old, and convinced anyone could do this.

Really simple. shut off breakers. checked the breakers were off. then checked again (this is 220V power to the element).
Undid the 2 nuts holding the old element in place. Pulled out the element into the oven space an inch or two.
Used pliers to pull the contacts out from the old element (not by the wires folks). reversed the process and I was done!

Loosen the screws to the bake element. Carefully pull out old element until wires are exposed. Pop off the clips from wires to heating element (leaving clips on the wires). Attach clips to new heating element. Screw back into place. Piece of cake!

RE: 2 yr. old GE double wall oven with convection option in upper oven, non-convection in lower oven: baked goods were not browning, were undercooked or burned. Tested both ovens on regular bake setting using 2 oven thermometers. Set ovens for 350. Although after 10 min both ovens beeped "ready", the oven thermometers actually read 200 - then would swing up as high as 500 and as low as 200 during the 20 min test period. Decided to first replace top oven sensor only, just in case it really was a more expensive control panel problem. It was a bit awkward to reach back there with the oven door in the way, but I have long arms! Aimed my flashlight, removed nuts with a socket wrench, pulled out the sensor, popped the clip and the old sensor easily separated from its connection. Snapped on the new sensor, pushed it back in and reset the nuts. Easy. Set the oven for 350 and tested again with 2 oven thermometers for 45 min. Voila! The oven thermometers read exactly 350 when the oven beeped "ready" and it stayed at 350 throughout the entire 45 min retest period with only a 3 degree variation both up and down. What a great improvement! Immediately went online to Parts Select and ordered another sensor for the bottom oven which was having the same problem. Fixed both ovens all for under $30 - and just in time for Christmas cookies! Don't want to know what the repair guy would have charged.......Merry Christmas!

1. Open oven door
2. insert oven racks (perfect fit)
3. close oven door. Done and finished - man am I tired

Followed GE repair video

Unbolted temperature sensor from back of oven. Disconnect cable connector. Replaced and reconnected new sensor and bolted back in place. Haven’t had to replace bake element yet, but it’s a major job being this GE Profile oven has the bake element hidden. That’s a new one on me.

took out old gasket and inserted new

This is a pretty easy job. Took 20 min. because I was especially careful. Once the new element arrived, I simple shot off the power (DO THAT, BE SURE TO DO THAT ). Two 5/16 screws hold the element in place at the rear of the oven. Once removed the element can move forward. A surprise was that wires attached to the element come with it. There are simple push on connections on the element. There were a little difficult to remove (heat I am sure ), but a couple of needle nose plyers and the two wires removed with ease. Plug in the new element connectors and push the wires and the connection back into place. Once in place, reinstall the screws and test.

Disconnected power, removed two screws from bracket. Unplugged old element, installed new element and replaced screws in bracket. Restored power and back in business!

I turned off the breaker, removed the control knobs from all of the burners there are plastic knots on each control knob that needs to be removed (once loosened they can easily be turned by hand). You can then just lift the out piece off. You need to remove 4 knots to release the control panel so you can access the control know. I removed the 2 screws in the old control know, there are 4 wires that need to be pulled to disconnect. I wrote down the order in which the colored wires were connected . I then removed the old part and reversed the process

Used a nut driver to remove element the insulation was tight and pulled the wires off before they came out of the oven. I made a small hook out of a coat hanger and pulled the wires through the opening.

0. As a safety precaution, unplug the range or hit the relevant fuse breaker before you start. You might also want to grab a flashlight. Definitely do not try to do this while the oven is hot.
1. Pinch the wire over the light bulb cap to remove it. This is inside the oven at the back.
2. Pop off the hemispherical glass cap.
3. Unscrew the old light bulb, and screw the new light bulb in its place.
4. Put the cap back.
5. Secure the cap by putting the wire back in its slots on the cap.

No tools needed, the cap is just held in place with pressure from the wire.

Removed back panel, change out sensor