JB640SP2SS General Electric Range - Instructions

This door required a lot more screws to be removed in order to remove the inside window assembly. I counted a total of 19 screws. That is why the estimated time is 30-60 minutes.

- remove door from range following the basic guide to removing any range door.
- place door on work surface with the outside facing down.
- remove three 1/4 socket screws from bottom and two star screws on top.
- Flip door over, remove outer door panel and set aside.
- There will be a separate pane of glass that needs to be removed. Remove 1/4 socket screws holding glass and set aside.
- Slide door over your work surface edge so you can remove the star screws holding the door hinges (from underneath). You could flip the door over but the door would have to be flipped back once the hinges were removed.
- Remove the remaining 1/4 screws holding the aluminum shielding.
- Remove the shielding being careful not to disturb the insulation around the window.
- Remove the damaged window. Take note of the writing and orientation on the aluminum window frame. (upper right if hinges were on the bottom)
- Set the new window in its place.
- Reverse the process by replacing the aluminum shield, hinges, than internal glass pane.
- Set outer door on top and holding everything together, flip door.
- Tighten the two star screws on top and the three 1/4 socket screws on the bottom.
- Replace door. Don't forget to lift up those hinge tabs before trying to close the door.
All done. Pat yourself on the back for a job well done.

1.) I removed the old oven door gasket by taking out the ends of the gasket out of the bottom of the oven door first.
2.) Pry up on each one of the retainer clips, they easily pop out of their slots.
3.) Work your way around the oven door gasket.
4.) If any remain stuck you can just wiggle the clip around and it should pop out of each hole. If need be you could use pliers, but I did not need to.
5.) Take your new gasket, it should already have new clips, so you can throw away the old ones.
6.) Work your way around the oven door making sure the clips are nicely seated.
7.) Finish off by inserting the ends back into the 2 holes on each side of the bottom of the oven door, I just used a small spoon to make sure the tops were nicely placed in.
8.) If your gasket needs to compress, you can close the oven door and lock it that should hold it in place and compress it.
9.) All done!

Not counting unplugging it and taking off the 3 back panels of the oven (< 5 min.) It took < 2min. to change out. Unclipped cable in back, unscrewed one screw inside of oven at top between the two elements and pulled cable through to front, reversed to attach new sensor. Buttoned up the back, plugged back in and was good to go.

Open the oven , remove one screw holding the sensor remove the sensor and replace the sensor.

1) REMOVE ELECTRIC PLUG FROM OUTLET. 2) Pull oven away from wall. 3) Remove the 3 machine screws holding in the top piece of sheet metal. 4) remove top piece of back sheet metal 5) pull knob of the front of the switch. 6) remove the two screws holding the switch to the front of stove. 7) remove wires (needle nose is helpful) one at a time and put them in the same location on the new switch. 8) put new switch into location on the stove and screw in the two front screws. 9) replace sheet metal on the back and screw in the 3 machine screws that hold it in. 10) plug in stove and move it back into position 11) put the knob back on the front and test it to make sure it works ok. 12) be sure to remove power if you need to do open the stove again to correct anything.

After reading all the repair stories I knew that their wasn't any extra wire when the old element is removed. Well, even with that knowlage one of the wires came loose and slipped back in. Fortunately I was able to remove a panel in back and push it back through. I was afraid I would have to take off the whole back but instead there is a panel covering the wire running down the center of the oven. After removing 5 screws with the same nut driver as the one for the coils I had it done in minutes. I had no problem and I am NOT a 'do it yourselfer'. Oh, did I mention I ordered the part on Friday and received it on Saturday standard shipping? Pays to live the next state over from the place shipping it.

Replacing the gasket is easy and requires no tools. Pull out the ends that are just inserted in their slots. Then work your way around the door pulling out the little metal clips from their holes. Replace the new gasket the same way.

It's even easier to do if you remove the door first and place it on a table--but it's heavy. To remove the door, flip up the hinge clips--you might need a flat screwdriver to do this if they are old and stiff as mine were. Then close the door almost all the way--you'll feel a stopping point-- and pull up. It comes right out--but again, it's heavy.

Replacing the bake element is not much harder. It's easier to do with the door off, but not impossible with the door on. First, pull out the range and unplug it. Then, remove the hex screws holding the bake element against the back wall. The element has two electrical contacts that insert into clips at the ends of wires. Pull out the wires a bit to give yourself some slack, then pull the contacts out of the clips. Insert the clips from the new element into the wires and replace the screws.

If the wires get lost behind the back wall of the oven, it's not a big deal. Just remove the narrow central panel on the back (it has six hex screws) and push the wires back through the wall opening. Then replace the back panel and install the new element.

I am not the handiest person in the world, and this repair was easy even for me. If you suspect that the temperature sensor is the problem, do yourself a favor and buy this inexpensive replacement part and install it yourself prior to calling a professional who will charge a service fee just for checking it out. Pull your oven out from the wall so you can access the back. Unscrew the small nuts on the back to remove the sheet metal cover. Find the wire that goes to the sensor and unplug the plastic coupling. In the oven, unscrew the one nut that secures the sensor to the back wall of the oven. Pull the broken sensor out and replace it with the new sensor. Feed the wire through to the back and plug the new sensor into the same wire that was just disconnected. Reinstall all of the nuts. Do a "test cook" on some frozen food to ensure that the temperature seems correct (i.e., does it cook as expected in the recommended amount of time). The actual repair takes less than five minutes. I put "30-60 minutes" to account for unplugging the oven, pulling it out, removing the screws, replacing the screws, pushing it back in, and testing the temperature.

Replaced control panel after removing original control panel facing with heat gun and Wala

I unscrewed and removed the old element from inside the oven, but unfortunately there wasn't enough extra wire to pull through and attach the new element from the front, so I had to move the oven away from the wall, remove the back panel, and connect the new element from the rear. Very self-explanatory.

The new element had some kind of spray or coating on it that caused some smoke for a few minutes, but then it worked fine.

I pulled out the drawer and inserted the new support. This one inserts into the back of the drawer as opposed to the sides. I had ordered two of the replacements even though I only needed one and decided to replace both. I think it was a good move as the drawer works better than when we first got it. Just one simple screw made it complete.

Unplug the stow.(Important!)
Remove the knobs pulling out from front of the stove.
Remove the 2 screws from each knob.
From rear.(3 big 4 small screws to be removed)
Removing the 7 screws pull up the upper panel get access to switches.
One at a time remove the wiring from old switch attach to new switch. Screw the upper panel. Install the knobs.
Plug the stove.
You are done!
Thanks to PartSelect for their quick response.

I removed the new control panel from its packaging and noticed that the button overlay was not included. I grabbed a putty knife and carefully loosened the adhesive on the old panel and was able to apply it to the new control panel. After installing it I looked up the number of my old panel on the included paperwork and simply entered the “profile” number after powering up the new one and It worked perfectly. I was very relieved to not have to buy a new range!

I picked the least expensive and most likely issue with our oven that was not indicating a correct oven temperature. I am sure with a 15+ year appliance that the circuitry is on its way out but wanted to give this a try to avoid a new appliance purchase. Oven pre-heat setting takes much longer to finish with the age of the oven. However, after the new sensor the oven will maintain a more even temperature for the cycle.

Removal of the sensor from the inside of the oven is a bit awkward since it is located between the broiler elements at the back but a nut driver was the correct tool and worked fine. A bit stuck with the heating of the connection but pretty simple to replace. Must remove the back first to uncouple the connector. Simplest part of the repair.

At best a temporary fix for a an appliance this old.

This temperature sensor is very easy to replace. There are two screws inside the oven in the top middle of the back of the oven. Take these off. on the back of the stove there is a metal plate with 5 screws I believe. Take these off with a nut driver. Then you will see a white connector coming from the spot where you took the other screws off. Take the white connector apart and pull out the temperature sensor from the inside of the oven. Then put the new one in.