JGB280DEN3WW General Electric Range - Instructions

Very was ti replace racks and knobs. Very fast mail service

Very simple. Lift oven door off brackets and set on floor. Remove sheet metal screws holding on existing trim piece, Clean area beneath trim.
Put new trim piece on, don't tighten any of the screws until all have been started as some adjustment is needed to align the holes for the screws.

Remove drawer by pulling out and lifting up so drawer will slide out of range. Use 1/4 inch Nutdriver or socket - remove the screw that holds the drawer support to the body of the range. Remove support and install new one with screw Pay attention to the way the support fits. There are two holes one for the screw and the other for the plastic prong on the bottom of the support. The prong fits in the bottom hole and the screw in the above hole.

Removed two screws to remove old bottom. Insert new oven bottom and re-attach screws.

Took off broken part and replaced it with the new part by removing a Phillips head screw, the broken part, replace with new and reinstalling the same screw.

Unscrewed eight screws. Removed rusted part. Cleaned area with Windex. Replaced new part.

Step 1 pull the broiler completely out of the bottom of the oven. Step 2 unplug the igniter Step 3 remove 3 small screws to pull the burner tube completely out of the oven. Step 4 replace the igniter and repeat steps to install burner tube back into the oven.

replaced lights in refrigirator and freezer

Tested for power to the igniter, (had power) so I knew it must have been the igniter that had failed. Removed two screws that held the shield in place, remove two screws that hold the igniter and disconnect the plug form the igniter, replace with new igniter.

Replaced the flat style oven igniter. First, I watched the video on your web site, and used it as a reference to make the repair. I did remove the oven door tho, as it made it easier to complete the work, the video didn't show the door being removed. The video was very helpful.

Secured the power, Opened the back of the range, and discovered a rodent chewed the wires in half so I striped the ends and wired them back together, the oven works great !!

First replaced temperature sensor following YouTube instructions.

Then removed upper back panel to expose the control board. Removed the screws holding the control board, but DID NOT disconnect the wires. Moved the old control board up over the top of the range to let it rest on the stove top.

Fit the new overlay on the new control board. There are edges on the bottom and one side of the control board that makes aligning it easy.

Then ONE AT A TIME, starting with the largest connector on the end of the board, disconnected a lead and reconnected to the new board. NOTE: THE CONNECTORS ON THE NEW BOARD ARE IN DIFFERENT LOCATIONS THAN ON THE OLD! But if you look closely, they are all labeled. Simply find the same label on the new board and connect the lead from that connector on the old board. Making the right connections is NOT a problem. And there are connectors on the new board that are NOT USED! A note in the packaging warns of this.

Remounted the control board, replaced the back panel, and plugged the range back in. The new control board flashed all the LEDs and the clock started blinking. Set the clock. Turned the oven on and confirmed that it lit, cycled on and off during preheat, and beeped when it came out of preheat.

Since this was a new sensor and a new control board, I used my DMV and thermocouple to check the min/max temp during the heating cycle. Had to calibrate the temp down 5 degrees. Instructions for doing this are on the web and in the owners manual. It is easy.

Finally, did the GE Biscuit Test (Google it) and the biscuits were a bit under baked at the minimum time and a bit over baked at the maximum time. Perfect!

Everything fit, everything worked, took about 45 minutes start to finish. Wife is happy and I'm getting baked goodies again!

I let my brother do the actual installation but it only look about 15 min. I did look at the website of the appliance manufacturer first and then came to this website. The cost of the part I needed was almost half as much as the other site. When I saw that someone with the same oven model number and had the same problem and was able to fix it, I decided to order here. It came quickly and my oven now works.

I first took out the screw which held the bottom plate for the oven. then took the screws off the igniter unhooked the wires , took the new igniter hooked up the wires then put the screws back in put the bottom plate back in and turned the oven on to test it and it worked great.

Pulled the gas stove out so that I could shut off the gas valve and unplug the power cord. Job was made easier by removing the oven door (which just slides out). I took the 2 screws out that held the old igniter in place. Went to the rear of the range where there was a small 3"X2" electrical cover for the igniter, and disconnected the wire leads from the wiring harness. I then pulled the old igniter out through the oven front. Fed the new igniter wires through the back of the range and plugged the new igniter in. Reinstalled the electrical cover in the back of the range, attached the 2 -1/4" screws to reinstall the igniter inside the broiler. Put back the oven door. Turned the gas valve back on and sprayed on a soapy solution to check for gas leaks. Plugged the electrical cord back in. Pushed range back in place, Turned broiler on. Wait for a few seconds till the gas comes back thru the line. Works great Our stove was a GE Profile Gas Range. The part number for the igniter is WB13K21. We are very satisfied. Jim