JBP23DR3BB General Electric Range - Instructions

Pulled the stove out from between the cabinets, used a blade screwdriver to pop the oven door retainers down and lifted the oven door out, removed the racks. used a 1/4'' nut driver to remove the 5 screws holding the broiler in place. From the time I unplugged the stove from the outlet until I plugged the stove back in was 15 min. I would suggest wearing gloves because the metal frame around the burner element has sharp edges.

couldn't get exact fit--out of production. mounting bracket at back of range for new element too small. took bracket off old element. cut down bracket on new element with tin snips, drilled holes thru it and old bracket and screwed together. at this point the new element was to long & touched oven door. removed spacers that came with new element (used old support to attached to roof of oven) and pried elements apart (which made element wider & shorter). working good.

First I cut the circuit at the breaker, and then pulled the range from wall to access the access panel. This top panel was held with 4 screws and removable with a standard phillips head screwdriver.

I then removed the 5 wire-crimped fasteners from the defective surface burner switch. (I first labeled these wires to ensure correct placement to the new switch). There were an additional two screws behind the corresponding knob that needed to be removed in order to completely remove the old switch.

The new switch was installed in reverse order to the steps indicated above (two screws behind knob, 5 wire-crimped fasteners, 4 screws to panel). Range was pushed back into position and breaker turned on.

popped out the remainder of old lens, then pushed in new ones and slipped on plugs.

Installed the new brackets at the back of the drawer with the 2 screws provided. The new rear mount design is much better than than the old side mount.

I had my husband fix it! Very easy for me.

It didn't take him long. The most difficult part was getting to the screws. He had to practically climb into the oven.

The parts were shipped promptly and the whole process was relatively painless!

My repair went better than i thought since you had in stock original pieces for this range. I was giving it to a relative so they would not have to go out looking for a new range...

The only hard thing was contorting my old beat up body and joints long enuff to reconnect the 2 wires and oven heat sensor and put in 6 screws with a 1/4" nut driver. I did remover the oven door and that made it much easier for me.

I started with changing the bulb. I removed the small bracket that holds the glass cover over the bulb unscrewed the bulb and reversed to replace the bulb. To replace the control board I removed the top plate on the back of my stove took the small screw's out of the control panel and unplugged the wire's. Plugged the wire's into the right spots on the new control board and put it back together.

Unplugged the power supply. Took off the cover on the back of the unit. Unplugged the wires to the broiler element. Removed the bolts(4) holding the element inside the oven. Removed the temprature sensor from element and took it out. Put it all back the way it came out. Worked great. Took 25 minutes.

The repair was so simple. First i killed the circuit breaker then removed five screws upluged element from contacts and removed the element plugged new element into the contacts popped the screws back and was done.

This one is simple. unscrew a portion of the door, install the spacer and screw back together. Worked well.

0. As a safety precaution, unplug the range or hit the relevant fuse breaker before you start. You might also want to grab a flashlight. Definitely do not try to do this while the oven is hot.
1. Pinch the wire over the light bulb cap to remove it. This is inside the oven at the back.
2. Pop off the hemispherical glass cap.
3. Unscrew the old light bulb, and screw the new light bulb in its place.
4. Put the cap back.
5. Secure the cap by putting the wire back in its slots on the cap.

No tools needed, the cap is just held in place with pressure from the wire.

I UNPLUGGED THE WIRE, ASSEMBLE THE BURNER ELEMENT KITS
LIFTED UP THE SURFACE BURNER PANEL,
OPENED THE BACK RANGE COVER,
UNSCREW THE NUT HOLDING THE BURNER CONNECTOR, DISCONNECT THE REPLACEMENT WIRES ON THE BACK PANEL
TRACE THE NEW WIRES CLIPS TO THE BACK PANEL & TIGHTEN THEM WITH EXISTING NUTS
SCREW THE OTHER ENDS BACK WITH NUT HOLDING THE BURNER CONNECTOR

First of all, there are FOUR panes of glass on the oven door and two different sizes. Make sure you're ordering the right pane. We initially got the wrong one and had to return/reorder.

Took door off hinges and set on table. Removed almost all screws. Two at the top are very long and almost spring loaded -- this was helpful when putting it back together.
When removing the layers, keep track of what/where screws are placed. Some are star-hole-head, some are hex-head (socket). Work slowly and carefully so as not to break additional panes of glass. Leave plenty of room in your workspace to set items aside while you get to the innermost part of the door.

For this part #, it's deep in the door layers and surrounded by fiberglass. Wear gloves so you're not itchy later. This part acts as a double-pane with a narrow aluminum frame around the two pieces of glass. Be careful not to bend the frame when removing the broken piece. One corner of the frame also has a hook-n-hole closure. Take care to not bend the hook too much.

We wiped all the glass pieces off to get all fingerprints, smudges, and baked-on foods removed. Then we put the pieces/parts back -- a lot like a puzzle. Had the oven back up and running with no problems. It may take two people to get the door back on the hinges just because of the weight and awkward position they need to clamp back together.