JBP23DR1CC General Electric Range - Instructions

called service co. and described problem while i was looking at parts diagram and he agreed with my feeling what part got fried. he told me the part would be 183.00 plus labor and drive time. when i told him i was looking at the part on line for 65 dollars he hung up on me. i recieved the part and was slightly dissapointed to know there was a sepperate adhesive overlay. i saw that it was a sepperate part but if i knew it was adhesive i would have spent the extra 20 dollars for a new one. but, to my surprise the old one peeled off easily and gently re-apllied it to the new conrol board alighning it well seemed to be the trickiest part of the job. took the five wires with connectors out of the old one and inserted them into the same place on the new one. removed the old one from the frame (4 pan phillp sheet metal screws) and then screwed the new wired control board in. plugged in the unit and pressed the bake button and then mixed the brownie batter. replaced the back panel cover. 65 dollars and 15 minutes.

thanks

bob

Unplugged appliance and removed 5 screws on back of stove/oven and removed plate. Disconnected the sensor and unscrewed it on the inside of the oven. Pulled the cord through and replaced with new sensor. Replaced all parts and plugged in the appliance and tested. Worked great.

first slide out range from wall and unplug it. then remove the rear panel, it is about 6 or 8 1/4" screws. remove the selector knob on the front of range and then remove the two philips head screws. this is how you remove the burner controller. hold the new controller next to the od one and one by one take the wires off the old one and put them on the new one. re-assemble and you are good to go.

The repair went very easy. The replacement part was designed differently than the original part. It installed on the rear of the drawer with a screw as the original snapped into the side. This was a bit confusing when researching and looking up the part online.

I started by lifting the front of the stove and slipping a towel under it so it would slide easier and not scratch the floor. The next step was to unplug the stove, after that, I removed the shelves. The next step was to remove the cover plate on the b ack to expose the connection. I removed the old element by pulling the to slide-on connections and the two mounting screws. At this point I took the time to clean the oven since the element was not in the way. To install the new element I did the opposite of th removal process.

1) pull out the stove
2) remove the 7 sheet metal screws holding the back panel on. (the panel that also covers where the cord splits and connects to the oven.
3) Find the small plastic connector located in the middle of the back of the range and unplug it.
4) open the front of the oven and remove the one screw holding in the oven temp sensor.
5) replace the sensor and make sure to "feed" the new cord through as best you can.
6) I had to dig through the insulation a little bit to find the new wiring harness
7) connect the wiring harness and put the back of the range back on

note: this was very simple to do if you think this might be the problem don't hesitate to handle this one yourself.

The repair was simple. All wires were color coded and the new part had the same color codes marked. Simply unplugged the wires from the bad part and plugged them into the new part a reinstalled the part to the back panel of the range.

First, I made sure the power was turned off at the breaker box so I didn't electrocute myself. Then, I took out the 2 screws that hold the element in place, then pulled it out and unplugged the wires.
I plugged the wires onto the new element, and replaced the screws. My daughter could have done this....

The known problem: a short occured between the surface element and the INF switch. After replacing the wire between the surface element and INF switch. The surface indicator light remained on - indicating a power surge/spike. Prior to removing the old INF switch I disconnected the wires from the old switch one at a time and plugged each into the new switch terminals. Then I removed the knob from the front of the control panel and the 2 screws holding the old INF switch in place. Removed the old switch and replaced it with the new switch. Reinstalling the 2 screws and the knob. Surface indicator light was no longer illuminated and surface element works fine.

Two screws on the inside to free element. 4 screws in the back to remove a plate. unhooked element connectors. Remove element from inside replace with new one. Too Easy.

Real happy on how fast the new part came.
1.Pulled oven away from wall and unplugged the unit & removed baking racks.
2.Removed the back wire cover behind the oven (3 screws).
3.Used the nutdriver to carefully remove the two holding screws inside the oven. Then I pulled the element towards me to expose the wires.
4. Using the pliers, I disconnected the element from the wires.
5. Using my son's help, I had him push the new element leads into the holes in the back while I connected the leads to the wires behind the oven.
6. Replace the two element retaining screws inside the oven.
7. Replaced the rear panel with the 3 screws.
8. Put the oven back in place and plugged it in. The oven worked perfectly!

TURN OFF ALL POWER TO KITCHEN. Took off all burner coils and plates below them. Lift hood. Locate part. Remove old part and replace with new part in same way as was previously installed. The wire that comes with the kit is actually too much wire, but just arrange it the best you can and leave it....no big deal. I didn't have a magnet, but needed one. The wire from burner coil to switch runs through a harness which is screwed on to the body of the oven (below the range). Be careful NOT to drop it behind oven when taking it out. I dropped it and took forever to get it. That turned a 20 minuate job into an hour and a half. Otherwise this is an easy job that anyone can do. Refrigerator compressor is next. Have fun.

I turned off the breaker for the oven. I used a electric drill with a 1/4 in socket to unscrew the two bolts inside the bottom of the oven. Then I pulled
out the heating element and slid off one connector and attached it to the new element. Then I slid off the other connector and attached it to the new element. Then I screwed the bolts back. I turned the breaker back on and it worked great.

Repair: unscrewed the back panel- 2 screw and the sensor and bake element from the inside had 2 screws each. Just stuck them through their old hole from inside to the outside, pushed plug back together. Then screwed back into place, screwed back plate back on. Plugged stove in, turned on the oven and within 2 seconds the bake element was blood red and temp. was up to 350 in less then 10 min. Come to find out only needed the oven sensor -$10.00part but I already ordered the bake element so I went a head and replaced it - cost $50.00. Have a great oven again for less then $70.00repair.

Replaced temperature sensor in the oven first ($10 part, always start with least expensive possibility!), but that didn't solve the problem. 5-10 minute repair, not counting moving the range in and out of it's home between cabinets. Next replaced the control board ($90 part) which solved the overheating problem. 15 to 30 minute repair, don't be intimidated by all the wires. Remember to turn off power at the breaker (duh). Order the faceplate graphic ($37 part) because chances are the old one won't peel off cleanly (ours didn't, "I was really careful Honey!!) and the otherwise excellent PartSelect.com website doesn't suggest the part might be needed. Anyway, I saved a minimum of $80 plus Labor by doing it myself. I had the advantage of living about 100 miles from their warehouse and got NEXT DAY delivery from FedEx instead of 3-5 business days. Suggest you order before noon.