JB680DP3WW General Electric Range - Instructions

No parts dealer had a window for this particular oven door. But the associate at Part Select helped me find one that was the right dimensions. The internet videos I found describing installation of a GE oven glass window all described a glass held in place with brackets that don't exist on this model. The broken window was obviously held in place by adhesive. I found a video showing installation a Whirlpool oven window. The construction of the door seemed very similar to mine and the video explained how to attach the window inside the door with high temperature resistant double sided tape. I used Gizhome 3M Double sided Tap. I set door flat on a table unscrewed all the screw (two different size torque screws and 3 screws with nut tops) that held the outer cover to the door. Then I used a putty knife to scrap the old adhesive from the outer door frame. The top of the window is held in place by the metal panel behind the oven door handle. In order to slip the glass under the metal panel I slightly loosened two small screws that held the metal to the door frame. When the door handle is reinstalled it will hold the panel in place. I attached a strip of double sided tape across the entire area that I had scraped adhesive from. I added a short strip of double sided tap on both sides of the window frame, (I'm not certain that was a good idea). I carefully slipped the glass under the metal panel and lowered it to the frame while watching for exact fit. When I tightened the large door handle screws they tightened the metal snugly against the glass. I clamped the glass to the frame at the bottum and placed several bottles of water as weights along the sides of the frame and let the adhesive cure for 24 hours. The project took me several hours because of all the research I had to do. I was thankful for the parts associate's help finding a comparable window.

Looked up the OEM part numbers and obtained the correct parts. Learning from past mistakes I took pictures of the wiring for each element so I didn't have to depend on my almost 70 year old memory. Installation was actually easier than I thought. The hardest part was getting the stupid springs that hold the elements in place reinstalled. GE...there's got to be a better way!

Ordered the part, it arrived and 5 minutes later it a complete installation

One wire at at time then used my razor blade to get front off stuck right back on

I just removed the drawer and installed the rear supports as instructed on paper included with the part.

replaced Plastic Guides

1. Unplug the range power cord from the outlet.
2. Moved range away from the wall and countertop.
3.Using a nut driver removed the 2 screws on each side of the removable panel on the back side of the control knobs and clock.
4. Using a phillips head screwdriver remove 2 screws on top side of the back side panel.
5. Using a nut driver remove 4 screws that secure the main control board in place.
6. Take photo of the wiring on the main control board if not color coded.
7. My control board, and the replacement board were both color coded with the color with the wire placement on the rear of the board.
8. Remove wires with needle nose pliers.
9. Using a hair dryer, heat the plastic control panel face plate that fits onto the front of the old control board.
10.With a putty knife carefully pry the face plate from the old control board.
11. Install the control board face plate onto the new control board.
12. Install the color coded wiring in place on the back side of the control board.
13. Replace the control board into the range, and install screws, and rear panel of the range.
14. Plug cord into outlet and test range for proper operation.

I began by turning off the breaker in the panel.
Slide the oven out into the open area.
Removed 3 screws in order to remove rear top panel.
Took 2 pictures of the wiring location on the PCB
Removed all wiring going to the circuit board total of 8.
Removed 4 screws in order to remove bad PCB.
Remove faceplate from bad PCB (you will need to place this faceplate on the new PCB.

To Install.
Reverse steps above

This went pretty smoothly. Watch the video and just follow along step-by-step and it goes well. It would have only taken about 30-45 minutes (even being careful and slow) but I ended up placing the glass twice (be very careful and triple check that all the insulation gets poked under the housing and none is sticking out). The first time I had a small piece sticking out. (Use gloves for this part so your hands don't itch). The second time I needed to redo part of it is I forgot one of the spacers on the door handle and had to get that in there so the handle worked properly. I also took the time to clean the oven while the door was off so that took some time. Total I probably had 1.5-2 hours into this project but at least half of that was me cleaning and being fussy. This is an easy repair. I'm not a confident repair person and this wasn't difficult. It was a little time consuming but well worth the cost vs calling a repair person or buying a new appliance. You do need to have a specialty star head on a screwdriver but my simple tool kit had all the tools I needed. The oven has been working great since the repair.

THE INSTRUCTIONS THAT COME IN THE EMAIL ARE VERY GOOD. BE SURE TO TAKE A PICTURE OF THE WIRING.

This was simple enough to repair for me, a relative novice. Just remember you need a nut driver to take the back panel off, take a photo of the existing board so you remember which wires go where, and you definitely need a hair dryer to heat up the sticker on the old board so you can remove it and put it on the new board.

I took the oven door off. Laid it down on a blanket on the floor. I pulled up on end going into the door, then went around with fingers to feel where the clip were and grab the clip with my fingers and gently pulled up. Then grabbed the new gasket, found the center clip that goes at top of door and started pushing the clips in. The last was feeding the ends back into the slot in the door.

First of all, there are FOUR panes of glass on the oven door and two different sizes. Make sure you're ordering the right pane. We initially got the wrong one and had to return/reorder.

Took door off hinges and set on table. Removed almost all screws. Two at the top are very long and almost spring loaded -- this was helpful when putting it back together.
When removing the layers, keep track of what/where screws are placed. Some are star-hole-head, some are hex-head (socket). Work slowly and carefully so as not to break additional panes of glass. Leave plenty of room in your workspace to set items aside while you get to the innermost part of the door.

For this part #, it's deep in the door layers and surrounded by fiberglass. Wear gloves so you're not itchy later. This part acts as a double-pane with a narrow aluminum frame around the two pieces of glass. Be careful not to bend the frame when removing the broken piece. One corner of the frame also has a hook-n-hole closure. Take care to not bend the hook too much.

We wiped all the glass pieces off to get all fingerprints, smudges, and baked-on foods removed. Then we put the pieces/parts back -- a lot like a puzzle. Had the oven back up and running with no problems. It may take two people to get the door back on the hinges just because of the weight and awkward position they need to clamp back together.

replaced handle, which was an exact fit and very easy.

Take off 6 screws of back cover of the range, unplug the white wire. Go to the inside of oven, pull out racks. At the top of the oven is your Broiler element, in the center you will see a rod sticking out with one screw holding it in place. Take out screw and pull temperature sensor out toward you. Reverse steps to put it back together.