JB870SR1SS General Electric Range - Instructions

Disconnect the range from the mains. Open the door. Remove the single screw holding the temperature sensor - this is located on the back wall on center and is screwed to the broiler mounting plate. Remove the four screws holding the boiler element and allow it to hang down on the wire; this exposes a space to feed the wire through later. Now move to the back of the range and remove the six screws that hold the central cover plate. Now push the insulation to up out of the way and you can disconnect the temperature sensor, pull it out through front, insert the new one and connect it. Reassemble in the reverse order. Mine worked perfectly!

I took a picture of the setup and damage . I then disconnected the burnt wires and replaced the wires . Then I installed the new terminal block and connected the wires to the proper positions. The reason for the failure was that the delivery people didn't tighten the cord when they installed the stove . I would check the connections periodically as to avoid another situation like this .

turned oven off, pulled oven out from wall, removed back of oven, unscrewed sensor from oven replaced with new sensor, put back on, turned power to oven on, tried oven at 425, my temp. gage and the oven temp matched. a very easy fix.

Unplugged from wall outlet, then opened oven front door. Reached in and removed two screws. Pulled oven sensor threw and detached electrical connector from old sensor. Plugged in new oven sensor and reversed removal procedure. No more Flashing F2 and oven temperature came to ready. Very easy.

Removed the power plug from the wall, screwdriver and small socket allowed me to remove the front control panel. Once I located the pilot light I pulled off the holding clips and placed a new light into the holding clips...problem solved.

No repairs-----new knob ordered & recieved

I feel like Macho Mom. I called in the repair guy since I was afraid of dealing with the gas. HE repaired one item but could tell I was comfortable fixing things and pointed out that the gasket was brittle and would cause major problems if not replaced. Took longer to order the part than do the repair, don't know what I was afraid of!

Replaced the Oven light housing. Unscrewed the two screws that hold the housing in place. Pulled out the housing and disconnected the wire tabs from the light housing tabs. Slid the wire tabs onto the tabs of the new light housing fixture. (Each tab is fitted to the tab in goes on so they can not be mixed up) Pushed the housing fixture back into place and screwed the housing into place.

Removed two screws to access burner. Removed three power clips from burner, reattached the clips to new burner, removed brace clips and attach to new burner, close lid and reattach stove cover.

Identified part and part # using schematic found on GE website, contacted PartSelect and confirmed part number, ordered and paid for part. Two days later I recieved part. Unplugged stove, removed two screws on bottom side of front panel and two on top back of same panel, pulled panel forward, pulled the control knob off, removed two small screws that hold the control switch in place, situated new control switch next to bad switch and removed one wire at the time from the bad switch and connected to the same terminal on the new switch. Put everything back together and Bingo, works like a new one. Thanks PartSelect for the friendly, personal phone service, the fast shipment and competitive pricing on my part.

Remove the glass cover to the halogen lamp fixture (counter clockwise turn, about a 1/4 turn). Recommend use of rubber coated gloves as the glass covers do not offer much by way of a good grip. Gently remove the halogen lamp (bulb) and insert new bulb into socket. Since the oven door is open, the lamp will light up indicating successful installation. Replace the glass cover (clockwise turn) until secure. Pitch the burnt out halogen lamp in the trash.

Changed out the burner with a new replacement and it still didn't work. The socket on the old burner had a burn mark on it. The infinite switch operated sloppy not crisp like the other burners.Ordered a replacement online. Moved the range away from wall and cabinet and shut off electric at panel box. Removed upper back panel. removed switch knob and 2 screws holding switch. Compared electrical connections of both switches and saw that they were different. Read instructions which were included with new switch and found diagram for connecting old lead to new lead correctly. After all leads were connected, remounted new switch powered up and tested OK.

Tried to drill for a screw and found the glass behind the stainless. The glass shattered when the drill hit it. Bought a new stainless front and installed it. Very easy install but found the stainless was not adhered to the glass in the bottom corners again. I took some double back foam tape and worked it in between the stainless panel and the glass on both bottom corners so as to prevent the stainless from pulling away from the glass and bending again. These panels should be better adhered to the glass to prevent this from happening.

Disconnected power supply. Removed damaged element by releasing retainer clips and unplugging wire contacts. Replaced with new element.

Pulled the top back panel off, pulled off burner control knob, removed 2 screws which released switch, removed 5 wires from switch and connected them to new switch (pulled off faily easily). Reconnected the 2 screws to range and pushed knob back on. Replaced panel and reconnect the electric. Now works as it should.