EGR2000EM5BB General Electric Range - Instructions

replace igniter

I first removed the oven door. I then took out the racks and removed the oven bottom. It slips out easily however, you need to take the door off. The burner cover came next. I used the 3/8 nut driver to remove the four screws. This exposed the burner and electric igniter. Two screws hold the burner tube in place. I recommend removing the burner tube due to the screws holding the ignitor will more than likely need to be cut off. Once the tube is out and you have disconnected the plug for the ignitor you will need to check the voltage at the plug (120 VAC). Place the voltage meter test leads in the oven side of the ignitor plug and set the oven to heat up. If everything is OK the meter should read 120 Volts AC. Turn the oven off and remove the leads. Take the old ignitor off the burner tube and replace it with the new ignitor and plug it back into the oven. Push the plug and wires back into the hole in the burner well and put the burner back in the oven well. Once it is all back in and bolted down try the oven again to verify the ignitor works. Replace the remaining oven parts in reverse order of removal.

I removed the two screws that hold the element in place then I had to splice the wires because the connector was not right and used the two wire nuts that came with the unit .

removed lower broiler pan so i could see burner igniter. removed the heat shield in front of the gas valve. (1 screw). started oven. no response from igniter. no gas flow at all. if igniter is bad it will not allow gas to flow. ordered new igniter from parts select for my oven model. got it in a couple of days. it wasnt exactly the same as the original, but was compatible. it came with its own connector, but didnt fit. i had to cut it off and splice in the original connector. i had to remove the burner tube to remove the original igniter because the wire was routed around and behind the tube. it just took a couple of screws to remove it and it pulls right off. this is all accessible on the top of the broiler drawer. installed the two screws on the new igniter and plugged in the connector. started oven and igniter started glowing bright immediatly. oven burner lit off within a few seconds. everything working like new now.

Removed old grates and pans, wiped off stove top, and put in new pans and grates. The stove now looks like new!

Over a duration the oven burner would take time to light, then eventually not ignite at all, so repaired ignitor and alls good. Easy, easy, didn't have to disconnect gas, electric for safety.

The job was made very simple primarily due to the repair video that was available on your site when I ordered the part that I was looking for. The job can be done in less than 15 min, but it took me a little bit longer because of some rusted screws that didn’t want to come out so easily. I also decided to take of the front door (not mentioned in the video) just to make it a bit easier to reach the igniter component. The door comes off very easy by opening the door about 6 inches and pulling up and off of the door hinges. Again for a novice like me the video was a life saver.

new igniter had a plastic wire coupling that did not fit with the soves wires; cut off coupling and connected wires with ceramic wire nuts given, remounted ignitor and fired up the oven.

(I could hold a torch on the igniter to start it, then it would work, but would not initially heat up on its own). Pull up and remove oven door. Remove racks. Remove 2 thumb screws in back of bottom plate and remove plate. Remove 1 screw on cover plate. remove 2 screws on igniter and unplug. Splice wires from new igniter to old plug with ceramic wirenuts (included). (Manufacturer changed plug design). re-install everything. (Sears wanted $80.00 for the part, Appliance Factory wanted $47.00).

I went on youtube and found videos for similar problems. Then was shown how to test the part to confirm if it was good or bad. After testing with an amp meter I confirmed that the ignighter was bad. I ordered the part and got it in 3 days. I put in the new ignighter turned on the oven and placed inside the oven a temperature gage, when the timer rang on the stove confirming that the oven was up to temperature, I opened the oven door and the temperature gage read 350 deg. exactly the temperature I had set. So for under 50.00 I fixed the oven, a service call would of been 80.00 plus parts. Thanks for the help. Bob Murphy

Bake ignitor would not glow. Removed racks and lower pan to access the ignitor. Removed two attaching screws and unplugged electrical connector. Installed new ignitor. Hint: Gas will not flow unless both the bake and broil ignitors are operational. Ignitors are interchangable; you can test ignitors by swapping them.

Removed lower oven panel and replaced oven igniter.

I unplugged the power then removed the shield from in front of the valve location. I removed the wire shield and pulled the wire connector into the burner area. I unplugged the wire then removed the burner frame pulling it out, I removed and re-installed the igniter kit. I also had to cut the connector from the from the old igniter (about 3" up)then remove the connector from the new (cutting flush to that connector) and switched out the connectors using the porcelane wire ties provided with the new unit. I then re-installed the burner frame making certain that the wires were in the proper location. I plugged the connectors together ensuring proper locking, pushed the wires back into the hole, replaced the wire shield and then the valve cover shield. Restored power the igniter lit brightly and approximately 4-5 seconds later the oven burner lit. I checked connector because another person on the site stated that it may be the wrong one and that the wire connectors would be sent in case that were so.

Every part of the part replacement was easy with the exception of removing one of the two screws that were holding the igniter to gas bar. No fault of the part to be replaced in any way. One of the screws that hold the igniter to the gas bar stripped when I was attempting to remove it. Had to use a small cut off wheel and my dremel to cut the screw and then was able to remove it by screwing it all the way through the hole it was in. Then tapped the two existing screw holes to 10/32 and attached the igniter with new screws. Everything else was about as easy as you can get.

Old school, so I first thought it had to be a thermostat, but realized it did not have a pilot light, but an igniter. Read a few stories of others who had the same issue. Ordered the part, came in early. By that time I knew what I had to do to replace it. Only issue was the part came with a male connector when the original was female. But part came with a couple of ceramic wire nuts, so I guess that is not uncommon. Cut the connectors off and used the wirenuts. Oven is working well.