EGR2000EM5WW General Electric Range - Instructions

Removed the old glowbar's two screws. Didn't take a mental photo of its proper placcement (or a real one, which would've been smart). Removed screws holding 1) a heat protection plate, and 2) wire harness plate. Installed the new glowbar, hopefully, the right way - with its heat-plate facing the gasline of the over/broiler. Reinstalled the heat protection plate and wire harness plate. Hasn't blown up yet!

One of the initial two screws for the oven bottom would not budge. Finally used a socket set to loosen it up. Upon taking out the old bottom I turned it over & saw a heat shield attached. I have no idea if you can order a new bottom with a new shield already attached or not, but I had no idea it was there until I took the old part out. Out of the eight screws attaching the shied, four of them were also difficult to loosen up. But in the end the new bottom looks great !

Replaced the flat style oven igniter. First, I watched the video on your web site, and used it as a reference to make the repair. I did remove the oven door tho, as it made it easier to complete the work, the video didn't show the door being removed. The video was very helpful.

In general, other repair stories on this site collectively give a good description of the repair process. My words concern the decision that has to be made as to which element is bad - igniter or gas valve. To reach a conclusion about this question, I was comforted by the fact that I could measure the AC electric current through the gas valve which then let me decide that my problem was in the igniter. Since the circuit is a simple series with three elements, thermostat, igniter, and valve and the resistance of the valve unit was 1.0 to 1.2 ohms (per GE range equipment instruction which came with the range) by measuring the AC volts across the valve, I found (by dividing the volts AC across the gas valve (2.3 volts) by the resistance of the valve mechanism (1.0 ohms) that my old igniter was only supplying 2.3 AC amperes (instruction sheet states 2.9 amps. is needed to actuate the valve and further while heating of the oven is occurring the valve AC current will raise to 3.2 to 3.6 amps.). At 2.3 amps. the igniter will glow at a yellow color but will not actuate the valve. When you replace the old igniter with a new one you will enjoy to measure voltage across the gas valve once again and discover that the voltage rises to 2.9 volts and that the gas turns on and the heater tube gas is ignited.

First replaced temperature sensor following YouTube instructions.

Then removed upper back panel to expose the control board. Removed the screws holding the control board, but DID NOT disconnect the wires. Moved the old control board up over the top of the range to let it rest on the stove top.

Fit the new overlay on the new control board. There are edges on the bottom and one side of the control board that makes aligning it easy.

Then ONE AT A TIME, starting with the largest connector on the end of the board, disconnected a lead and reconnected to the new board. NOTE: THE CONNECTORS ON THE NEW BOARD ARE IN DIFFERENT LOCATIONS THAN ON THE OLD! But if you look closely, they are all labeled. Simply find the same label on the new board and connect the lead from that connector on the old board. Making the right connections is NOT a problem. And there are connectors on the new board that are NOT USED! A note in the packaging warns of this.

Remounted the control board, replaced the back panel, and plugged the range back in. The new control board flashed all the LEDs and the clock started blinking. Set the clock. Turned the oven on and confirmed that it lit, cycled on and off during preheat, and beeped when it came out of preheat.

Since this was a new sensor and a new control board, I used my DMV and thermocouple to check the min/max temp during the heating cycle. Had to calibrate the temp down 5 degrees. Instructions for doing this are on the web and in the owners manual. It is easy.

Finally, did the GE Biscuit Test (Google it) and the biscuits were a bit under baked at the minimum time and a bit over baked at the maximum time. Perfect!

Everything fit, everything worked, took about 45 minutes start to finish. Wife is happy and I'm getting baked goodies again!

The part was very easy to switch out but it made no difference whatsoever so I returned it. The way it is designed is the problem. There is a pie slice shaped gap on the burner which causes a gap of no flame. Also a C shaped cut out around the igniter which causes another no flame gap.

Remove the existing burner and install the replacement.

Removed two screws to remove old bottom. Insert new oven bottom and re-attach screws.

replaced lights in refrigirator and freezer

Unscrewed eight screws. Removed rusted part. Cleaned area with Windex. Replaced new part.

Took off broken part and replaced it with the new part by removing a Phillips head screw, the broken part, replace with new and reinstalling the same screw.

Step 1 pull the broiler completely out of the bottom of the oven. Step 2 unplug the igniter Step 3 remove 3 small screws to pull the burner tube completely out of the oven. Step 4 replace the igniter and repeat steps to install burner tube back into the oven.

Very simple. Lift oven door off brackets and set on floor. Remove sheet metal screws holding on existing trim piece, Clean area beneath trim.
Put new trim piece on, don't tighten any of the screws until all have been started as some adjustment is needed to align the holes for the screws.

Secured the power, Opened the back of the range, and discovered a rodent chewed the wires in half so I striped the ends and wired them back together, the oven works great !!

Tested for power to the igniter, (had power) so I knew it must have been the igniter that had failed. Removed two screws that held the shield in place, remove two screws that hold the igniter and disconnect the plug form the igniter, replace with new igniter.