CGS980SEM2SS General Electric Range - Instructions

Removed bottom shelf from inside oven, turned it obj and replaced the oven deflector with only a screwdriver

I had really hoped these new knob dual skirts would be made of metal and therefore superior to the ones that came with the oven, but alas, these are also made of plastic. It was easy to screw them into place although they didn’t come with screws I just used the old screws. I sure hope they last longer than the originals!

Instructions on YouTube not available, so for me, this was trial and error. Unplug the range. Remove the stove top grates, burners, and using an 5-prong allen-like wrench (star shape), remove the fasteners attaching the burners to the stove top. Remove the screws behind the rear vent and completely remove the stainless steel vent fascia. Using a deep socket wrench, remove the nut associated with each burner unit. This is done from on top of the range after the grates, etc are removed. Tweezers may help here. There are 2 extra star-shaped fasteners attaching the R front burner to the burner unit, remove those. Carefully lift the top of the stove up, over the rear vents, and move it towards the back of the unit. An aluminum foil covered heat shield protects the power control unit for the oven at the front of the stove top. There are 2 bolts attaching it to the main unit, remove those. A white foam material is under the wiring leading to the power control unit. Carefully remove that. 4 screws hold the PCU in place, remove those. Carefully shimmy the PCU out from under the front part of the stove. Before installing the new PCU, I went through all the wire attachments making sure they came off easily; pulling them off and then replacing them. Using rubber gloves, I held the new PCU and systematically went through removing a wire connector from the old PCU, replacing it on the new PCU. This takes a bit of patience. Once attached, carefully replace the PCU and attach with the 4 screws. Then reverse these instructions to complete the job. I plugged the range in once the new PCU was attached with the 4 screws to determine if it worked. It did. It takes some doing to get the burners properly aligned so they can be tightened back down with the deep socket. I only hand tightened those nuts. Good luck!

I followed the "Test Procedures" on your site { VOM to test the Temperature Sensor and observed the intensity of the Igniter } and found both items were not at specs. Although your video did not depict my model oven exactly, it showed me enough details on how to get to and change out the parts. IE: The connector plug for the Flat Style Oven Igniter had to be accessed through the Warning Draw and not the Oven as shown in the video. A minor issue.
I found your test and safety procedures, how to video's and ease of ordering the required parts fantastic. Most importantly the parts arrived in one day and a half. A very satisfying experience, Thank you

Unplug the range from its wall socket to avoid electric shock. The various range parts that support a pot or frypan are easily lifted off their perches, exposing the small white igniter. The only moderately difficult aspect is wiggling the igniter out of its retainer. The electric wire leading into it then can be pulled out and fed into the new igniter with a push. Replace igniter in its retainer, then replace the range parts you removed to expose the igniter and plug the range back into the wall socket. Piece of cake.

replaced lights in refrigirator and freezer

I JUST EXCHANGED THE BURNER AND BURNER CAP.

1) Turn off power at circuit breaker panel
2) Slide out Range from wall
3) Unplug Range
4) Remove back panel and unplug electrical connections to socket
5) From front of oven, remove glass cover over old oven light bulb and remove flange that holds socket and bulb
6) Remove old socket from mounting flange and discard.
7) Place new socket into mounting flange
8) Screw mounting flange and new socket into the oven from front. Reattach electrical connections from back.
9) Screw in new light bulb from front
10) Replace existing glass cover over new light bulb and snap wire holder in place
11) Replace back panel
11) Plug in range
12) Slide range back to original position
13) Turn on power
Works like a charm! Thanks for having the parts after 30 years!

First I removed the broiler from the bottom of the oven, then pulled the oven way from the wall to unplug it. I then removed the two screws that hold the igniter element in place. Ironically, the plug GE manufactures is reversed so i had to strip the plug and go end and reverse the wires to attach them to the oven. I used ceramic wire attachments as plastic would surely have melted. Replaced the screws, replaced the broilers, plugged it in, replaced against the wall and it fired up.

Order parts and installed - no tools needed - completed repairs less than 1 minute

Removed the old glowbar's two screws. Didn't take a mental photo of its proper placcement (or a real one, which would've been smart). Removed screws holding 1) a heat protection plate, and 2) wire harness plate. Installed the new glowbar, hopefully, the right way - with its heat-plate facing the gasline of the over/broiler. Reinstalled the heat protection plate and wire harness plate. Hasn't blown up yet!

1. Removed oven door..
2. Slide out floor plate of over.
3. Removed four screws securing the flame shield.
4. removed the two screws attaching the heating element to the burner.
5. Pulled heating element wires out of rear hole in oven and detached plug.
6. Attached new element and reassembled in reverse order.

1. Unplug from electrical outlet. 2. Turn off gas valve. 3. Remove oven door. 4. Remove bottom drawer. 5. Remove oven shelves. 6. Remove oven floor, take out the two screws at the rear. 7. Unplug the igniter from the wire harness, you can reach it from where you removed the drawer. 8. Remove the igniter, by unscrewing the two bolts using your nut driver. 9. Replace with new igniter. 10. Put everything back together, starting with # 9 and work your way to #1.

Replaced the flat style oven igniter. First, I watched the video on your web site, and used it as a reference to make the repair. I did remove the oven door tho, as it made it easier to complete the work, the video didn't show the door being removed. The video was very helpful.

Pulled the gas stove out so that I could shut off the gas valve and unplug the power cord. Job was made easier by removing the oven door (which just slides out). I took the 2 screws out that held the old igniter in place. Went to the rear of the range where there was a small 3"X2" electrical cover for the igniter, and disconnected the wire leads from the wiring harness. I then pulled the old igniter out through the oven front. Fed the new igniter wires through the back of the range and plugged the new igniter in. Reinstalled the electrical cover in the back of the range, attached the 2 -1/4" screws to reinstall the igniter inside the broiler. Put back the oven door. Turned the gas valve back on and sprayed on a soapy solution to check for gas leaks. Plugged the electrical cord back in. Pushed range back in place, Turned broiler on. Wait for a few seconds till the gas comes back thru the line. Works great Our stove was a GE Profile Gas Range. The part number for the igniter is WB13K21. We are very satisfied. Jim