JCSP39BW3BB General Electric Range - Instructions

Remove two screws hold cook top down: prop it open with piece of wood. (TURN OFF POWER TO RANGE FIRST!). Carefully make diagram of where wires go: remove and replace.. piece of cake!

With multimeter checked resistance of oven sensor. Specs called for 1100 ohms. It was off by 27 ohms. The sensor from Part Select had exact wire connection as original. Then just matter of undoing old and reconnecting with new one.

One unsatisfactory event. I asked Part Select why my clock did not work or light up(timer works ok) . Answer was: sorry we have no time to help you. That soured the otherwise happy experience.

Disconnect stove electrical connection. Removed 2 bolts common to the upper stove top cover. Disconnected 4 wires from burner element along with 2 retaining clips.
Removed burner element and replaced with new element. Reinstalled 4 wires and 2 retaining clips. Lowered stove top cover and reinstalled 2 bolts. Connect stove electrical to wall outlet. Turn on burner element and verify that it works.

First unplugged it. Then removed everything in side for easy access. Took screws out 2 of them. Had to pull to removed elemnet . That took a while. Should have tried removing other screws or at less loosen them. It went in easy. And lift off we had red burner. hey..

Removed two screws and removed the oven elelent. One wire was not through the back of the stove. Ordered new element anyway. Slid stove out (slide-in model). Unplugged power. Removed two covers protecting wires on back of stove. Found wire for oven element. Had to cut and strip end of wire and use new blade clip. Crimped new clip to wire and inserted into oven through back of stove. Replaced covers. Plugged oven element to wires and tried out oven. WORKED ! Saved new oven element for next time. Difficulty encounted was lack of knowledge on where stove was screwed into counter-top and what size blade clip to buy. It always helps to have a dog 3" away just itching to lend a paw.

Safety first: Turn range circuit breaker to off position. Turn a surface unit [burner] to the on position ,if no light exists power has been removed. Turn surface unit to off position. To remove bake unit. With a 1/4 socket driver remove two self tapping screws and gently pull out on the bake unit until you can access the slide on terninals. Careful lenth of wire is limited. Remove slide on terminals two each [2] . Install new bake unit in reverse order . Restore power

The cooktop is just set in the counter with no fasteners. I shut off the power and lifted the unit out. Ten small screws held the top to the body. After removal, I took a picture to have a wiring reference. I disconnected five wires with push-on terminals, then removed two Tinnerman nuts with needle-nose pliers. The failed burner was free to remove. There were two mounting ears on the bottom of the burner at positions 12 and 48 as stamped on the bottom. I transferred the mounting ears to the new burner, one screw each. I then positioned the new burner and secured with the two Tinnerman nuts, replaced the five wires, screwed the top back on and slipped the unit into the counter. Done.

I turned off the main power! Then unscrewed the back cover unhooked the wires and unscrewed the coil inside of the oven and pulled it out. My 10yr old son and I measured it and went online to order the part. I first did go into BestBuy and they didn't have the part (But they tried to sale me a new oven!) LOL Now who said a newly divorced mom couldn't fix her own oven! My Tech Support skills came in handy! Women Rock! LOL

1.Move range in position to access electrical wall disconnect and unplug. 2.Remove two 5/16 screws (located under top fwd. edge of cook top, Lift entire top assy up from front and prop with appropriate device(short 2x4 about18 inches long works well) 3.Remove two small phillips screws securing two metallic keeper devices holding burner assy in place. This should allow burner assy to be removed.4.Disconnect electrical spade connectors from ceramic terminal blocks on old burner assy.CAUTION: [SPADE CONNECTORS FIT TIGHTLY DO NOT PULL ON WIRES USE PRYING FORCE WITH FLAT SCREWDRIVER DIRECTLY ON TERMINAL].Remove connectors one at a time re-connecting to same location on new assy. Reassemble in reverse order.

Bent the tips so the phillament can fit inside the oven.

Turned off power. Opened range door, removed 2 screws that held top in place. Took a photo of the existing wiring for reference. Removed old burner. Be careful with spacers & springs. If dropped, they will be hard to locate in the insulation. Replaced wiring connectors & verified proper location with photo. Closed cover, replaced 2 screws & turned on circuit breaker.

Pull out oven and unplug from 220 outlet. Remove rear upper/lower cover (4 screws), Remove two wires from rear of element. From front, open oven door, remove two screws and pull out old element.
Install new element by reversing above sequence. Then test and push oven back in place. Easy!

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires,held wires one at a time so tehy wouln't slip back into rear holes in oven, slid off connector tabs and pushed on to replacement unit...)

Turn off power at the circuit breaker before working on electric thing.

Removed oven door and shelves for free access to element. Unscrewed the old element, pulled it out, removed the clips and removed the element. Reversed these steps to install the new element. Tested the element to ensure it worked.

I unscrewed the two screws inside the oven, then i pulled the oven away from the wall and unscrewed the protective shield, and undid the wiring. Then i removed the element. Once the new one arrived, i pretty much just did the same thing in reverse. vwa-lah... fixed!