JB968TK2WW General Electric Range - Instructions
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- Customer:
- lynn from sunnyside, NY
- Parts Used:
- WB21X22134
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers
F2 reading
Followed the instructions that were sent to me by E-Mail.
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- Customer:
- Keith from Annapolis, MD
- Parts Used:
- WB21X22134
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Socket set
The oven temperature could not be controlled
Disconnect the range from the mains. Open the door. Remove the single screw holding the temperature sensor - this is located on the back wall on center and is screwed to the broiler mounting plate. Remove the four screws holding the boiler element and allow it to hang down on the wire; this exposes a space to feed the wire through later. Now move to the back of the range and remove the six screws that hold the central cover plate. Now push the insulation to up out of the way and you can disconnect the temperature sensor, pull it out through front, insert the new one and connect it. Reassemble in the reverse order. Mine worked perfectly!
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- Customer:
- Arthur from Sarasota, FL
- Parts Used:
- WB24T10119
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
The large front right burner of the radiant cooktop did not work
Turned off the power at the breaker. Then I lifted the cooktop by pressing up from the bottom, while my wife slid two boards over the recess. I lowered the cooktop onto the boards, removed 12 screws around the perimeter of the case and carefully lifted the glass top and placed it on a towel on the DR table. (remove the control knobs first) removed the wires leading to the infinite control, marking which color when where, removed the two screws holding the infinite control, and replaced the old with the new. Reattached the wires, replaced the cooktop, replaced the screws, held it up while my wife removed the boards and then carefully lowered the cooktop into the recess. Attached the knobs, flipped the breaker back on and turned control to hi. It worked!
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- Customer:
- Patricia from Brandenburg, KY
- Parts Used:
- WB08T10026
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers
Oven light wire broken, damaged socket
Remove light bail, glass cover held by two nut screws. Pull socket, removed clips in back, replaced wire connectors, placed new socket in, then glass cover and bail. Wire connected in back, cover plate replaced.
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- Customer:
- Dana from Yonkers, NY
- Parts Used:
- WB04T10022
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Needed to replace the door gasket on my range
Went super fast--very easy. Part fit perfectly and the installation was a snap.
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- Customer:
- David from Lisle, IL
- Parts Used:
- WB21X22134
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
oven not warming, f2 indicating overheat
Removed 4 screws from back panel, disconnected small electricsl connector from sensor, removed one mounting screw from sensor inside oven,pulled wires through and removed old sensor. Fed wires for new sensor through and connected electrical connector, installed panel, installed mounting screw on sensor and checked oven, worked like a champ. Took 5 minutes.
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- Customer:
- Jan from Southington, CT
- Parts Used:
- WB30T10107
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Burner Quit Then Work, Then Qit Again. Wire Clip Burned Off The Thermostat Relay And The Stab.
Added 2 new clips and installed the burner
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- Customer:
- John R from Asheville, NC
- Parts Used:
- WB20T10024
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
missing meat thermistor
plug in thermistor when needed
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- Customer:
- Carl from Delray Beach, FL
- Parts Used:
- WB24T10119
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
burner worked on high only
Followed directions from Rodney of Erath La. Directions were perfect and helped me to decide to under take this job. Job took a little longer spending some time to clean the glass top on both sides and around the counter top where it mounts. The actual repair time was quick and easy thanks to Rodney. Price of the part was reasonable and delivery got here quick. Will deal with parts select again! Carl from Florida
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- Customer:
- Nat from Irvine, CA
- Parts Used:
- WB07X42948
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Rust on Bottom of Oven Door
Self-clean the oven or use Easy-Off. Lay some towels or other padded ragging on the kitchen table. Open the oven door and lock the hinges. Pull the door out of the oven and lay it on the table with the oven handle hanging off the edge of the table. The inside of the oven door will be face up on the table. Use the 1/4 Nut Driver to remove three sheet metal screws from the bottom of the door. Use the T10 to remove two long screws from the top inside of the door. lift the door guts and set aside along with the 5 screws and two spacers you found under the top of the door. Use the nut driver to remove 4 screws holding the Door Bottom Channel Trim. The door handle and side channels will fall off (catch and set aside). you are left with one piece of glass with the old bottom channel trim. Gently tap the lip of the channel with a screwdriver in a towel to slip it off the glass. Gentle patience is a virtue here or the glass will break. Clean the glass with CeramaBryte or equal to get the burnt oven goop off. (While you're at it, do the same to the bottom of the door guts above.) Slip the new bottom channel on the glass as far as it will go (not very far in my case) and replace the door handle and side channels. You will see that the holes line up pretty well without having to jam the bottom channel onto the glass. Screw (4) the side channels to the bottom channel. Replace the Door Guts, being careful to line up the two spacers at the top of the door. Three screws in the bottom of the door, then the two Torx screws back in the top of the door. Put each screw in just finger tight and after they are all started, screw them home. Slip the reassembled door back in the oven frame, flip the locks up and Voila! Now that it's over, let me just say that if a camel is a horse designed by a committee, this thing must have been thought up by the US Congress!
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- Customer:
- Wallace from Vestal, NY
- Parts Used:
- WB07X42948
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Bottom trim on oven door rusted - poor GE design
In order to replace the bottom trim (and side trims if needed) it is necessary to separate the oven door front panel and its outer glass from the inside door panel. It is best to remove the entire oven door and lay it down on a table in order to do this. (Refer to owner's manual for instructions on removing the door from the oven, but it basically lifts out easily when is is in the broil-open position). Remove the front panel of the oven door by unscrewing the two machine screws (these may be torx head screws on your appliance) on the top inside corners of the door that hold the door handle. (screw spacers on the inside likely will fall out when you remove the machine screws - don't be alarmed) Then remove the three screws at the bottom of door trim. The front panel can then be lifted away from the back panel. This will allow access to the screws that hold the bottom trim to the side trim. Remove these and the bottom trim will slide off. Replace trim pieces and reassemble.
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