P2B918DEM1CC General Electric Range - Instructions

Used the TS guide, because I had no idea what the problem was. That was easy step by step. Thanks. Gave me a list of two parts that could fix the problem. Picked the higher percentage part (97%). Followed the simple install instructions and it was successful. One problem I did encounter was the two wires that it connected to were short. Removed the back center plate to gain access to the wires. I was able to extend them enough to make the connections to the bake element. If not for that the repair would have only taken maybe 10 minute's.

My oven is wired into the wall so I had to cut the power off at the fuse box. The hardest part was pulling the stove/oven away from the wall to see if it was a simple plug in or wired in. I lifted bottom drawer out so I could get leverage and lifted the entire unit so I could put the front feet on the soft pads. It slid away from the wall easily. I found a socket that fit the screws on the plate holding the broken element and unscrewed it, saving the screws. A gently tug on the element pulled the attached ends through the hole. The tip of the ends were attached to the wall wiring by a small sliding metal clip. I carefully pulled the ends apart. One was hard to get apart to I had to push it with the tip of a knife. Once the old was off the new was super easy to put back on. Side the tips to the clips, screw the plate in place and push the oven back in place. Flip your fuses and turn on the oven. Yeah!

Turn off power to oven. Removed the rack. used a 1/4" nut driver and removed the two screws holding the element to back of oven. Slid the element out, unhook the two wires clipped to the end of the element. Replaced it with the new element, installing it in reverse. Took about 15 min. Rememer to turn off power to oven before attempting to work on it.

Moved stove out away from wall .Unplugged stove, turned gas off. Unit is a dual fuel convection. Burners are gas, oven is electric. Removed 4 screws from back shield and exposed the 2 electrical leads connected to broiler element. Disconnected the electrical .Inside oven I removed the front bracket holding element in place, then removed the 2 1/4 screws in the back holding element in place. placed new element in and finger tightened the 2 screws, next I installed the front bracket and finger tightened those. I then snugged the rear screws in followed by the front. I went to the back and reconnected the 2 electrical leads. Replaced back shield and plugged unit in and turned gas back on.Caution; Make sure your gas line is flexible before moving your stove out to far. Repair was very easy

Convection fan came loose from the shaft with a lout rattle and grinding as the fan spun down. Had to remove four metal screws to remove the fan cover. Initially tried to just put the nut back on to hold the fan. However, I could not get the nut to start, so I assumed that threads were stripped on the nut or the shaft. Ordered the replacement nut, hoping that it was the nut that was the problem. However, I had the same problem with the new nut. I could see no damage on the shaft. It finally occurred to me that the nut and shaft had left-hand threads (counter-clockwise to tighten). At that point, it was extremely easy to put the nut back on and tighten it. I did not try using the old nut, since I had already received the new one, but I'm certain that if I had come to that realization earlier, I could have saved time and money. So, if you have the same problem, try putting the nut on "backwards."

The repair was somewhat easy. The replacement elements are pushon type. The only thing is that the G.E. Hotpoint wire on the right side of the bake element is short. Be extra careful to not have it go back into the back oven wall or you will have to take the back cover plate (Pull out the range, remove the back cover using a nut driver or a magnetic tip srewdriver with the bit removed works[Wires are right there]. This is as easy a job as can be.

Make sure gas and electric is turned off before proceeding. Start by removing t-15 screws from each burner(3 per) then remove spark igniters(slight pull). Making note of wire locations. Then use flat screwdriver to depress the 2 clips under the cooktop to release. There you will see the parts that need to be replaced. Also very important not to bend the orifice holders because they are made out of tin and will bend very easy. Reverse order to complete install

took old lines off and just reconnected and turned gas back on. Used soapy to make sure there was no leakage.

Remove lower drawer and contents. Unplug unit. Tilt range on its back for easy access. Tie open oven door to forward legs with sturdy rope. Use small socket to remove 2 back screws and 2 forward element hanger screws. Detach broiler element connections from wire clips(2). Insert new element, attach 2 new connections to clips first. Install back socket screws. Install front socket screws for element hanger. Slide in oven shelves. Release oven door rope. Lift range to normal position. Replace lower drawer. Plug 220 in. Test oven element then broiler.

Removed element with 1/4 " nut driver, unhooked element,started to install new element and discovered the wires were too short and had to remove cover on the back to replace wires on the new element. The wires on my range were not as long as the ones showed on the video.It was still an easy repair and the delivery time was less than 2 days. excellent service. Thanks

I took a picture of the setup and damage . I then disconnected the burnt wires and replaced the wires . Then I installed the new terminal block and connected the wires to the proper positions. The reason for the failure was that the delivery people didn't tighten the cord when they installed the stove . I would check the connections periodically as to avoid another situation like this .

The part was just like the old one and would have been an easy fix except our range suffered from a lighting hit. The clips had melted together. Called a dealer and asked about a new wiring harness. He said in those cases just cut the clip off and hard wire with wire clips,or firecrackers. We used wire nuts and taped all together and the oven works just great. Nothing is ever as easy as it should be.

best to pull stove out away from wall connect from behind stove

This repair was quite a bit more difficult then what had been described on the web site. First off, I have a double wall oven that is built in. Sliding it out of the cabinet was difficult and because oven was hard wired, I had to disconnect the actual wiring from the oven back. . Positioning the oven and allowing for it to rest on a support bench was the most difficult part The oven is heavy. Eventually, removing the back and top panels of the oven revealed the sensor connection. I was then able to feed it through the oven and reconnect all the wiring harnesses.. Getting the oven back in the cabinet was equally a challenge. But it did seem to fix the problem with over heating.

Removed grill grates, gas distributors, etc. (just lift off). Used star screwdriver to remove screws (3 per burner for SML, 2 for power burner). Lift off stainless cover, which also lifts off the white sparkers I was replacing. Pull them off the wires (didn't need pliers, others said they did). Replace (make sure it is all the way on) and reverse your steps. White sparkers electrodes seemed loose when I put them back on, but tightened up when I fully secured the top back on. Make sure the wires aren't pinched underneath when you put the top back on. Recommended: If you've got one that isn't working, go ahead and replace all 3 (power burner is different) because the part is so cheap you may as well just do it now.