JGBP86CEK3CC General Electric Range - Instructions

Took longer to open the box.

repair was easy enough, but the kit came with female ends and needed mail ends. I had to splice old connecters to new igniter

took drawer out removed broken guide. It had 1 screw removed it put the new guide in place put screw back in. Put drawer back in stove, It works fine.

Replaced old with new.

Order parts and installed - no tools needed - completed repairs less than 1 minute

slid the old ones out and slid the new ones in. done

First I checked that the wire and sparker was working by switching the wires on top of the range. I did this by pulling out the sparker switching it from the back working burner on the same side. The same burner would not light so I knew it was not the sparker.

Then watch a bunch of videos and found this gal to be the most helpful on how to take apart my exact stove.
Go here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WRGfuhUzEaY

I did not take everything apart like she did. I ordered the spark module and just replaced it following her method to take off the back, switch the wires to the new module, then put everything back together again.

All burners have been working perfectly since the fix.

took nut driver to remove the old and replaced with new. simple.

Unplug the range from its wall socket to avoid electric shock. The various range parts that support a pot or frypan are easily lifted off their perches, exposing the small white igniter. The only moderately difficult aspect is wiggling the igniter out of its retainer. The electric wire leading into it then can be pulled out and fed into the new igniter with a push. Replace igniter in its retainer, then replace the range parts you removed to expose the igniter and plug the range back into the wall socket. Piece of cake.

Lift out old one and replace with new one. Also ordered an additional oven rack.
Their website is super easy to navigate and their availability of parts it's outstanding!!

My son took out the old burner bar and there was a hole burnt right through it. I ordered the part on Weds night and was surprised when we received it so quickly on Fri morning. He had no trouble at all - just removed the old igniter and bar and replaced it with the new one. Nothing needed cut or spliced - perfect match. Now I can bake again!!!

When turning on the oven, I could see the ignitor red hot but it would not ignite the burner. I ordered the pair of new ignitor and burner tube. Upon removal of the burner tube, I saw a large hole in the tube where the center of the ignitor is located, clearly in need of replacement. Unlike some other ovens, the connector on the new ignitor was the exact fit for my oven (Hotpoint RGB745BEA7WH). After access to the tube, the replacement took less than 10 minutes not including watching about 3 youtube videos on how to actually do the replacement prior. You should turn the gas and electric off but ooops, I forgot. I was shocked at how easy this was!

One of the initial two screws for the oven bottom would not budge. Finally used a socket set to loosen it up. Upon taking out the old bottom I turned it over & saw a heat shield attached. I have no idea if you can order a new bottom with a new shield already attached or not, but I had no idea it was there until I took the old part out. Out of the eight screws attaching the shied, four of them were also difficult to loosen up. But in the end the new bottom looks great !

The part was very easy to switch out but it made no difference whatsoever so I returned it. The way it is designed is the problem. There is a pie slice shaped gap on the burner which causes a gap of no flame. Also a C shaped cut out around the igniter which causes another no flame gap.

In order to get to the burner switch you must remove the top of the range. Removed the 2 screws in the front holding it down then tried to remove the burner mounting screws securing the burner holders in place. Of the 12 screws, 10 were frozen. The screws sheared when I tried to remove them. After removing the top, I removed the burner holders one at a time and drilled out the broken screws. I would have purchased replacements but the part was listed as unavailable. I removed the front panel which exposed the switches. I cut the wires of the defective switch and used heat shrink crimp connectors to connect the new switch. With the top off the ignition module in the back of the range is exposed. I popped the old one out, changed the wires to the new one, one at a time and secured the new one in place with wire ties as the mounting tabs did not line up. Reassembled the range top using new #8 3/4" stainless steel screws to secure the burner holders. Plugged it in, turned on the gas and voila all the burners light. What should have been a 2 hour job took about 10 hours due to having to drill out the sheared screws.