JBP24GV1 General Electric Range - Instructions

Took Switch panel off range. Disconnected Infinite switch. Reinstalled infinite switch.. Replaced panel. Repair was very simple and self explainatory.
Knott County Housing Authority Maintenance Personnel

parts need to be delivered to do repair, its been over a month. customer service is not taking calls. I have paid for parts I did not receive.

When the part arrived, I used the diagram provided by the website to see what really needed to be done. Keep in mind, if you're doing it correctly and disconnect the range from the power source, it's going to be dark inside the oven. Get a good flashlight or electric lantern. There are two screws holding the element in. Mine were 8MM hex-head screws, but be prepared for anything. I removed the with a socket attachment/adapter to my cordless drill/screwdriver, and the part came right out. Some insulation will come as well - don't panic. Installation is similar, just in reverse order. Pay attention to the feet on the element. Make certain they are down. Don't lean on them when you think you're finished and discover that you installed it upside down like someone I know, and have to pull it out to correct this.

I had already removed the worn out part. The new part came with wire joint covers and connecting them was fine. The brace that came with the part did not actually fit onto the stove burner well; so I cleaned and used the older brace - but, when I went to put it back in place, the bearings on the original self locking bolt were stripped. So, I had to find a replacement bolt with a nut. Found that I had some of those on hand. Once the brace was firmly in place, the rest was easy!

I simply replaced the female part of the plug that the coil plugs in to. I figured this would do the job. I replaced the part,

Took off the door, took out the two screws in the back of the element. Then pulled the element forward, then removed the two wires. Then put it all back together with the new element.

Turned off power to the oven at the circuit breaker. Pulled the old heating element from the back lower wall of the oven. Noted the position of the wires (right terminal attached to the red wire, left to the black wire). Removed small bolts holding the element to the wires using pliers. Attached the new element using screw driver. New element came with screws, not bolts. Pushed the element back into place and restored power. Tested to make sure everything worked. Everything works and I ran an oven cleaning cycle. Noticed that indicator light above the temperature selctor is always on now even when oven is in the OFF position. Not sure if that's related to the change or to the oven cleaning cycle I ran. In any case, oven seems to work normally.

I followed the instructions given to me in the package and all went well. I cut the old wires off the burnt terminal block, stripped the wires, installed the wire nuts with the shrink rap, installed the new terminal block and burner. The new burner is working great! Thanks

I simply replaced the element. HOWEVER, the most wonderful parts of this repair...Because of the pictures and closeups and descriptions I knew exactly 'what' to order! And I had the replacement in less than 24 hours. I can do some home repairs but this company provided such detailed information AND speed of delivery...that this was a no-fuss fix. I'll definitely stop by to buy, again. Thanks!

I couldn't find the oven model number so I just looked at the shapes from partselect.com. This would have been fine except I didn't know my Kenmore model had 4" leads so the one I ordered were only 2". I had to return the first element but the process to do this was FAST and EASY. With help I found the model number and had the correct part shipped. It took less than 5 minutes to install. It took longer to mop and clean behind the oven that hadn't seen the light of day in 10 years.

Using a nut driver, I removed the two screws holding the baking element to the firewall of the oven. I then pulled the baking element out exposing the two wires connected to it. I then used the same nutdriver to remove the nuts and detached the old element. I then connected the new element to the wires, pushed the wires inside the firewall and reattached the element to the firewall of the oven.
The time it took was literally a few minutes. Works like a new oven!

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires, then i connect the new element and and replaced the screwes that held it in very simple and I must say Part select was very fast at getting me the correct part the first time , they have earned a spot in my Favorite list

Removed oven door by holding sides and pulling upward. It's easy to remove and replace. Removed shelves by sliding back and up, then out. Removed two hex nuts with socket wrench. They are on back wall of oven and secure element to that wall. I then pulled element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two leads.

I put new element in, reconnected two leads, replace two hex nuts and was done.

Turn off power to stove at circuit breaker before starting.

Couldn't be a much simpler repair. You pull the old element off by removing two screws. Then you slide the old element toward you several inches and remove the two screws holding the wires that are attached to the old element. To replace, just do everything in reverse. One cautionary measure, even though the oven is off, there is still a small amount of electricity going to the element. Turn the stove off at the circuit breaker, or unplug the stove before you attempt the repair.

Absolutely no tools required for this task. Simply align the prongs to the female portion on the stove top. Carefully push in until the element is in place then line up with the drip pan slot. No instructions are necessary!!