JCB909SL5SS General Electric Range - Instructions

Unplugged the Range and removed the two screws holding down the cook top. You do not need to remove the vent chamber at the rear of the range since the top lifts up about 4 inches. This should be enough room to get your hand onto the plug going to the door switch. Pull off the plug and remove the swich. Pop in the new one, put on the plug, reinstall the two screws and you are done!

Read the thread on "burnt smell" and DO NOT assume it is a burned out element. Follow your nose!!

Very easy to remove the parts and to reassemble

Pulled out the range from the wall and unplugged it. (A good time to clean up the cabinet sides & floor.) Found the 2 screws under the cooktop by opening the oven door. Removed the screws and raised the cooktop -- it's hinged in the back. Propped up the cooktop with a spare piece of lumber. (I would have expected to find a fold-out rod to prop it up -- a suggestion to GE.) Noted the positions of the 4 spade lug connectors and removed them gently with a pair of needlenose pliers. Removed the 2 screws from the clips holding the element in place & removed the element. Installation was the exact reverse: clips, spade lugs, front screws. (Then I removed the blue masking tape I had put over the burner knob so we wouldn't try to use the burner while I was waiting for the part to arrive.) Plugged it in & pushed it back in place. Good to go! 30 minutes including the surprise cleanup.

Performed repair using a video for reference.

Took the oven door off and removed the inner door panel, put new glass assembly part in and reassembled. The hard part was getting the door hinges locked back into place.

Just note the wire colors and match them where they go on the new control, remove and replace 7 screws and a zip tie and I was done.

Watched youtube video. Very easy to replace

recieved part the next day. looked different but I followed instructions and the part worked perfect.

Removed torx screws for door handle as well as torx screws for both hinges to separate the door halves to extract broken glass and to install new glass panel. Other reviews said not to remove hinge screws, however I had no problem reinstalling them.

First I removed the oven drawer. Verified that the support clips would rest correctly on rail, then review installation document with supports to locate alternate location for replacement supports. I did have to personally locate 2 fastners not provided with the supports ot complete installation. After installation, oven drawer opens and closes smoothly.

Removed screws holding temp sensor, pulled wire out from behind wall until found connector, disconnected old sensor.
Measured resistance of old sensor and compared with new sensor, they measured nearly the same. Installed the new sensor and tested the stove. Came up to temp ok. No problem since, about 2 weeks.

0. As a safety precaution, unplug the range or hit the relevant fuse breaker before you start. You might also want to grab a flashlight. Definitely do not try to do this while the oven is hot.
1. Pinch the wire over the light bulb cap to remove it. This is inside the oven at the back.
2. Pop off the hemispherical glass cap.
3. Unscrew the old light bulb, and screw the new light bulb in its place.
4. Put the cap back.
5. Secure the cap by putting the wire back in its slots on the cap.

No tools needed, the cap is just held in place with pressure from the wire.

Turn off breaker, disconnect electrical wiring, remove cooktop from courter top, turn over , remove switch.

My stove didn't seem to be getting enough power for the oven to heat up and the burners to get hot enough. When I checked the connection of the electric cord I found that one of the 3 terminals that the plug connects to was broken off. When the new part came I removed the old part by first disconnecting the 3 wires [black,white(ground),red] and then using a small but long 1/4 socket (that I found at Lowes)I removed the 2 screws that held the old part to the stove and the green screw under it holding the flat copper piece that also connects under the white ground wire of the part. I mounted the new piece on with the 2 1/4 screws. The new part comes with a piece of copper that is for grounding the part to the stove. When I compared it to the old part it was a little different. I first screwed the copper piece onto the stove (under the part) with the green screw then I screwed the white wire over the copper piece to the center terminal(you have to make the hole of the copper piece line up to the screw hole). I connected the other 2 wires and then connected the electric cord to the new terminal block and then put the back cover back on the stove and plugged it in. The clock came on I turned on the four burners they all got hot and red. I turned on the oven the element on the bottom got red I then turned on the broiler the top element got red. My stove is fixed.

replaced lights in refrigirator and freezer