JBP21WB1 General Electric Range - Instructions

Unplugged oven. Pulled out from wall and removed backside access panel. Unplugged 2 stake-on connectors connected to element. From front side of oven, removed fan guard using 1/4 inch nutdriver. Gained access to and removed two screws holding in element. Pulled element out. For installation, reverse process.

unplug it and plug the new one in

unpluged unit then removed back panel unpluged element then took the two screws out took old element out replaced with new one put screws back plug element back in put back panel on pluged it in and started baking home made chocolate chip cookies

standard procedure, very simple

removed the end caps from the stove panel, unscrewed the back, unscrewed the old switch, CAREFULLY noting which wire went to which terminal, removed the wires.
Reversed the process. took a little longer because I felt compelled to do a thorough cleaning while I was there.

I unhooked the main power cord, unhooked the worn out block terminal cut the tape that was holding all the wires together. Removed the back panel and followed the wires unhooked the 2 wires and installed the new block terminal. Tied all the wires back, attached the back panel and plugged the power cord back into the outlet. i tested the burner to see if it was working. The burner is working great, instructions were easy to follow and my wife is happy. Thank you

I UNPLUGGED THE WIRE, ASSEMBLE THE BURNER ELEMENT KITS
LIFTED UP THE SURFACE BURNER PANEL,
OPENED THE BACK RANGE COVER,
UNSCREW THE NUT HOLDING THE BURNER CONNECTOR, DISCONNECT THE REPLACEMENT WIRES ON THE BACK PANEL
TRACE THE NEW WIRES CLIPS TO THE BACK PANEL & TIGHTEN THEM WITH EXISTING NUTS
SCREW THE OTHER ENDS BACK WITH NUT HOLDING THE BURNER CONNECTOR

After watching the video and ordering the parts and searching for the right size socket (which took most of the time) and finding medical tape as I had no electrical tape I took of the back unhooked the terminals and following the wires to determine which ones needed to be replaced I followed the video instructions on reverse as my son had spliced new terminal blocks into the old wires I taped each new wire to the one it was replacing and pulled it through the back of the stove and into the front attached the new wires to the new block and pushed the clips on the other end of the wires to the knob boxes. I rolled up the excess wire and taped it securely with medical tape so it wouldn't unravel and be in the way when I reattached the back shield on the stove. After I repeated the process for the second terminal (I had two that kept shorting out) I reassembled the stove plugged it back into the wall and used both burners that night to cook dinner! I have had no problems with those burners since then. Really if you watch the video first and follow the instructions you should have no problems. It is really quite simple if someone hasn't tried to repair the problems without replacing the wires. Splicing new blocks into old wires just doesn't work. If I have this problem again, which I hope I don't, I will be confident in my ability to fix the problem myself. Thank you parts select for repair video and the parts.

I looked for a new terminal locally, but no one had s terminal that would fit a 40-year old range. I went on line to PartSelect and could not find my model range, so I looked through all the terminals listed on the website (about 500) but found only one that was close to mine. Mounting holes did not match, but it had 3 connectors with 220 capability, so I ordered it. I requested express shipping by UPS and thought I paid for the extra charge. When I got notification of shipment. I saw it was via ground. It went from Louisville to Jacksonville to Clearwater, FL. I ordered it on Thursday night and received it the following Tuesday night. Meanwhile, we had no stove to cook on. When the part came, it took two days to get the contractor back to our condo. He drilled new holes on the mounting box and jerry-rigged the wiring to make it fit. The range is now working, but I was disappointed in the delay in shipping which I agreed to express shipping.

I followed the instructions on the video, the only thing they left out is where the wires go through to the back of the stove being that there are sharp edges. A role of glass tape would have been handy to replace the old tape. Thanks for asking, I hope this helps someone else.

PULL RANGE OUT FROM WALL & ALSO REMOVED OVEN DOOR BY SLIDING UP. WORKING FROM INSIDE OVEN & ALSO BEHIND I REPLACED PART . ALWAYS " UNPLUG " RANGE BEFORE YOU START.

While I appreciate all the various parts available from PartSelect, I was disappointed that the only heater element that was approximately the right size and shape for my wall oven had push-on prongs. My original was screw-on.

Thus, I had to (very) carefully drill through the somewhat thick metal tabs to get screws into them. This meant holding the tabs with a pliers while I drilled them out to make sure that I did not break off the tab. Then, I increased the hole size by using increasing diameter drill bits. I let the screws self-tap, but again this was done carefully to avoid breaking off the tabs. Finally, I found that the part of the new heater element going through the back wall of the oven was an inch or so longer than the original. This did not seem to cause a problem of overheating outside the oven. At least not so far!

Easy

Removed burners and existing drip bowls and installed new drip bowls and existing burners took approximately 15 minutes

Of course the first thing is to turn off the breaker, Unplug the appliance, pull the two electric feed wires off the old element. Then remove the four screws that hold the fan guard in, After that the two screws that held the Bake Element in place. Then reverse the process to install the New Element. Took about twenty mins. from start to finish. Just Like New. And thanks to Parts Select for their prompt service, Had the new part in two business days.