JB968SH4SS General Electric Range - Instructions

First, disconnect electrical power to the stove by turning the main fuse to the off position. Confirm that there is no electrical power in the stove. The ceramic top is held by 10 screws that are closest to the ceramic surface. Other screws hold other parts of the stove and not need to be touched when opening the stove. Once the ceramic surface is off there is access to the burners and the various lights and switches. It is important to determine whether it is the burner that is defective or the switch. Inasmuch as the switch has many moving parts, the switch is more likely to be the defective part. Check the switch by gaining access to the switch connections. There is a metal frame held by two screws on each side in the outside of the stove (same area where the initial 10 screws were removed to separate the ceramic surface). Remove these screws and flip the switch assembly so all the wires and cables are accessible. I checked the switch with a continuity tester and by trial and error determined that there were two connections that in all the remainder three switches had continuity when the switch was in the on position while the suspect switch did not. Replaced the suspect switch by pulling the wires and replacing them in identical positions in the new switch (a smartphone camera became very useful to remind me were exactly each cable's connection was). Restore power by turning the fuse to the on position. Check that the burner lights up. If not, change the burner as well. Same simple procedure of disconnecting and connecting cables to the burner). Make sure to disconnect power before working on the burner. Replace the screws that hold the switch assembly. Replace the ceramic top. Replace the screws. Set stove back in its hole. Reset fuse. Total time: 35 mins. Total cost: Approx $25.00 (switch + delivery). Quoted repair by local appliance repair service: $487.50. No contest. Next project is to fix a leaky water dispenser in the refrigerator.

Pulled the old one off (very easy), used popsickle stick to push first end in slot, aligned pins, pushed them in the holes and pushed other end in the slot.

Turned off power. Opened range door, removed 2 screws that held top in place. Took a photo of the existing wiring for reference. Removed old burner. Be careful with spacers & springs. If dropped, they will be hard to locate in the insulation. Replaced wiring connectors & verified proper location with photo. Closed cover, replaced 2 screws & turned on circuit breaker.

Removed old switch, put metal jumper from old switch to new one and connected wires to the new one . Reinstalled. Works great.

Easy

I ordered a new burner assuming As is turns out: nothing wrong with the burner.

turn off the power at the breaker first

remove the 2 screws under the 'lip' of the stove top (open the oven door to get to them)

prop up the stove top on the cardboard box the part came in

pull off the wires one by one and attach to the new burner OR record where each wire goes first

remove the old burner (2 screws) and attach the new burner

screw down the stove top

try the burner - when it does not work flip the power breaker back on and then try again

bask in the joy, admiration and wonder directed your way by various family members

Got door off no problem used screw drive to release locks and lifted door off. Took 3 1//4 screws out the 2 3" long screws out to separate door half's took screws of hinges and then8 1/4 inch screws of sheet metal that covered window. Replaced window and reverse what I did taking apart. Still having trouble getting 1 hinge to connect to stove. Help would be appreciated.

Removed fasteners holding door assembly together. Cleaned out broken glass. Placed new glass frame. Reinstalled fasteners

The repair went very well. The second repair comnt to remove the hinge screws was a good correction from the first description. I had to go to that parts diagram to realize that the the two metal sleaves were insulation spacers for the two top screws.

popped the new one on!

As many people have encountered, my oven would not heat but the igniter would be bright orange and glow! Over time, the igniter wears and degrades causing oxidation to the surface. This cause the igniter to fail and operate at a lower current level, below 2.8 amps! Normal igniters operator over 3.0 to 3.1 amps. When is happens, a low current igniter does not have enough input to the control valve to tell the valve to open to allow gas to flow over the igniter to light the oven, thus heat the oven! This has got to be the NUMBER one reason for an oven not heating!

Dear PartSelect:

I am very impressed by your service and company. My order arrived in less than 24 hours. It was a perfect match and is currently in service. I am very satisfied with the entire experience and will use your company again.

I simply opened up the cooktop with a screwdriver and disconnected the wires to the affected burner. After the part arrived, I reconnected them. I had to swap over two brackets from the old burner, so don't throw it away until the new one arrives. It went back together very easily and worked immediately.

Matt Brennan

Locate breaker box and turn off breaker to stove. Removed the two screw in front that hold the top in place. Raised the top and supported it with the box the new burner came in. Removed two screws that held the burner in place and the 5 wires one at a time an installed them on the new burner. Put new burner in place and installed two mounting screws. Reinstalled the two screws in the front to hold the top in place then turned the breaker back on and tested burner. Worked great. Received part in 2 days.

Replaced it