JBC27BY2 General Electric Range - Instructions

Removed old burner, plugged in new burner. Turned on electric and everything worked fine. I was concerned that I would not be able to get the correct burner since my stove is approximately 30 years old and General Electric no longer stocks replacement parts. The new surface element was manufactured by General Electric and had the correct replacement number on the package. Thanks Part Select.

After checking at local appliance stores and unable to find the bunner I went online looking. I found this site and there it was. I ordered it, received it within two days, took the old one out and the new one in. As my granddaughter says, "easy peasy lemon squeeze". It took all of five seconds and I'm cooking again.

Unplugged the burner unit. Removed the existing drip pan. Installed new drip pan in place & re-plugged the burner unit.

Remove the front panel, at which time the spring loaded door slammed closed while the paned and handle were in my hand. Fortunately I had a star bit to fit the screw holding the door and panel together.The parts should come with 2 screws since the part has holes for 2. note: the factory installed handle only had 1 screw in each side.

Simply slide stove away from wall and unplug. Remove the center back plate on the rear of the stove, Open oven slide new element into rear of oven, snap into place. Return to rear of oven. slide wire connectors onto oven element prongs, replace center cover, make sure oven is turned off, plug stove back in and slide back into place. Open oven and turn on. allow element to heat up. Once the element has heated and the new burns off. Turn off the oven and replace the racks, This entire process took maybe 5 minutes.

it was hard to figure out the instructions from A switch to B switch to my switch. The first switch was no good the second one was good. prayer book didn't hurt.thank

(Turn off the Power) Pull stove out, remove the 2 screws that holds switch in place, remove one wire at a time and install on new switch. Slip switch in replace 2 screws. Snap off about 3/4 of the shaft cut down plastic insert for knob, install knob turn on power and it works.

I flipped breaker off for electic and confirmed that power to the stove was off. I removed the 2 screws holding the control unit in place. Carefully removed all knobs and buttons and pryed the cover for the control unit off. I then removed old part, removed the wired and clipped wires to the new unit. Put cover back on - has some difficulty getting the panel back in place to line up the screws. But after a couple of attempts, was able to line up unit and put screws in place to secure. Replaced all knobs. Turn breaker back on and cooked lunch. Very easy job. Most difficult part was getting panel back in position. I would watch alignment more carefully before I removed in next time. Easy home repair for Women...not sure about my man?

This is twin oven range with controls at side of upper oven. Control panel was fastened with screws at top and bottom. Range has built-in hood at top which had to be disassembled to reach top screw. Once had access to top screw, eaisly removed control panel and replaced control. New control had identical connections as old control so only had to install it, break shaft to correct length, and use proper shaft adapter for knob. Remounted control panel and range worked perfectly. This would have been a very quick job except for having to deal with the built-in range hood.

It wasn't so much the repair that was needed as how impressed I was with the fast delivery. Without a fourth burner & a holiday weekend coming up I was in desperate need of my element. I ordered it around 1:00 pm on a friday & it was delivered the next day before noon! Very impressed with the ease of ordering & receiving. Thanks again.

unplugged and installed

I removed the face of the range back. I did not need to remove the three screws in the back like I thought - just the two torx in the front panel. 2) I lifted the clock face assembly out and up. 3) Look at the very simple wiring. Mine had white and red wire coming out of the "power block". 4) I looked at the old circuit board to see which is line and which was neutral. There was no designation. 5) i removed existing wires. 6) I unscrewed the old clock from its moorings, and saved screws. 7) I made sure the up/down orientation of the new clock was the same as the old one. There is an "up" word on the new circuit board, but with the clock upside down, make sure the buttons are correct. BTW, I had to affix the new clockl/timer cover plate onto the replacement clock, using that "up" word on the new circuit board to orient it. 8) I attached the Red wire to the Line connector on the new circuit board, and the White wire to the prong labelled neutral. 9) I used the old screws to secure the new clock to the range back. 19) There was an extension wire included with the new clock. I did not need to use it. 11) I wrestled the clock/timer back into the range itself, using the two torx I removed to secure it. 11) The new buttons on the left (Timer and Clock) are reversed, so now the Timer is the top butting and the bottom now sets the clock. 12) I do not like the feel and action of the new buttons. They are very stiff, and not particularly easy to push.

Good directions

The original controls were different for the small burners and the large burners. The replacement part fits all. Before removing wires, pay attention to writing on new and old control and replace 1 at a time. The hardest part was being sure to cut the knob stem to the correct length. Control works well.

I removed the two screws in the oven door with a T-15 screwdriver and pulled the inside frame away from the front glass. At which time I hear something came loose it was the oven door spacers, got back on the web site to see were they went from the parts list and put it back together in no time.