JCB710DM2WW General Electric Range - Instructions

With circuit breaker off, I opened the oven door and removed the two mounting hex-head screws that held the cooking element at the rear of the oven. I pulled the oven away from the wall and unplugged the unit's 220 volt power cord from the wall. I removed the rear cover panel by removing five hex-head screws that held the panel in place. I sought out the wires that connected to the oven element and pulled the tabs from the failed element. I moved to the front of the stove to remove the old element. As the contact ends of the element are curved up, I needed to lift the front of the old element up to an approximate angle of 45 degrees before I was able to remove it from the oven. I then placed the new element into the mounting holes, again with the front of the element raised at an angle. Its insertion was easily performed. I replaced the main element mounting screws at the rear of the oven. I went to the rear of stove again and reconnected the power tabs to the element contacts. I repositioned the rear cover panel and replaced the five hex-head screws to secure it into place. The main power was reconnected to the power outlet and carefully slid the stove back into position. Circuit power was reset and the oven tested successfully.

Pull the old one put in the new one ... took about 20 minutes

Removed back panel screws, removed back panel, removed screws of the control board, remove control board, heated glue and tore off plastic face plate, placed face plate on new control board, installed new control board, moved wires from old control board to new control board, test out oven, reinstalled back panel

My oven bake element melted one day. I had my husband replace it and for a short while it worked. Then it quit but then our broil element would not shut off. My husband said that it might be the heat sensor. We checked here in town and that element cost over $80. Since we have order from Parts Select before we decide to do so again. When we received the heat sensor my husband replaced it taking out the original heat sensor. This did not work as the broil element still would not turn off. I call the repair man and I found out that the initial melt down of the bake element also effected the main circut board that had to e replaced.

Scary when stove burner comes on by itself, was turning breaker off for safety! GE website not helpful at all. PartSelect website enabled diagnosis of problem and then provided easy source for replacement switch. PartSelect has schematics: all I had to do is unscrew the back of control panel, unscrew offending infinite switch, hook up replacement switch same way, put panel back and done. GE service call starts at $80 and then who knows what kinda $$$? Did repair myself: cost just $38. Yay!

Removed the broken socket, and replaced with new one.

First turned off power at breaker box. Pulled stove out to remove the half dozen hex screws on the back panel.(some nuts were stripped)Removed old oven sensor inside oven held by one hex screw and replaced it with the new part. Oven works great now! Repair job was done by husband Mike.

The repair took Less than 20 Mins. So easy anyone that is handy should be able to do this with ease. And PartSelect is great to order from Order was placed on a Weekend and order was at my home on Tues! Thats a one day shipping and it was a ground shipment!!! Great Job PartSelect!!!!!! Mark

Disconnect power, then remove racks from oven, locate heat sensor by the broiler element. Use ratchet with extension and correct socket to remove the bolt directly under the heat sensor, pull the sensor out till you see the plug, disconnect the plug and then connect new sensor to it push wire back thru and then rebolt the new sensor on, thats it...

Ordered the part, turned off the circuit breaker, test to see that power is off, take a 5/16” nut driver, and remove the 2 screws under the front of the stove top, then lift the top up and hold it up with an old 2x4 about 24” long. All the connections are plug and play, so I took some needle nose pliers, to pull all 5 wires off of the burner. Then all that’s left to do is remove 3 spring clips. That was easily done by inserting a flat screwdriver into the back of each clip and pry them out. It ended up being a very easy fix. There is Utube videos to show you how to do it.

Some of the original TO-9 switches were fused by the heat. I made them functional again with a cutter on a rotary tool, but to make the repair properly, I ordered the new control unit and the faceplate graphics. Note the guide tabs at the bottom and right edges when replacing the graphics. Don't plan on reusing your old graphics (unless you are a wizard at removing the very strong adhesive).
To gain access to the part, remove the 2 screws (part 715) in the bottom of the control assembly with a stubby screwdriver. Using a nut driver, remove the two screws (part 1000) on the back at the corners, being careful not to drop them behind the oven. Pull out at the bottom, then move the whole unit toward you. Note the position of the wires. A digital photo can help here. Remove the wiring and 4 screws holding the clear plastic TO-9. Put the screws in the new unit in the same holes and rewire. Put the assembly in place top-first and align the screw holes. Finding the same thread placement for the lower screws can be tricky, so start them gently.

When we moved into our new home I discovered that the oven that came with the home did not have any racks in it. I ordered these racks because they said they were compatible with Hotpoint ovens. However, when the racks arrived they were just a tad too wide to easily slide in the oven. With a bit of force my husband was able to shove the racks in. Luckily I don't cook enough to care if they are moved again because I don't think they'll come out easily.

Tried GE onoine parts department first and ordered the wrong part, then tried the customer hotline and they referred me to the right part but didn't explain that the design had been modified (the drawings had not been updated). I found an explanation on Part Select AND the parts were cheaper. Part Select sent the part, the necessary screw, and an appropriate instruction manual. Each support took less than a minute to screw in with a socket wrench.

Used a pliers to remove old bake element (2 nuts that none of our socket set would fit). Removed the back panel with screwdriver. Unattached bake element from wires. Then removed old element and put new element in, pulled new element wires through back and reattached to range. Screwed back in the oven with the pliers. Closed up the back panel with the screws.

I changed out the sensor and still same problem. Change out Thermosat and still same problem.
I call the help number and emailed the help but I got nothing but have to many calls because of the virus situation.
Still need help.
I’m an electrician and I don’t want to call a service technician and pay that big bill.
Can anyone there help me out, if so please call.
Ike Stanton
678-525-6644