JBP76WIY5 General Electric Range - Instructions

I had to call for a appointment for repair with GE Appliance because I thought then it . .was something electrical. The technician came out & checked everything out, turned out it was not electrical, The technician went out to his truck got a light bulb from his truck, put it in & it worked. It cost me $121.00 for trip charge from GE appliance for a light bulb that worked, your light bulbs were defective twice. Very disappointed with your products, cost me alot of money for a good light bulb thru GE appliance

I was very impressed how quickly the package arrived. I would you your company again. I found you with a google search.

1) Turn off power at circuit breaker panel
2) Slide out Range from wall
3) Unplug Range
4) Remove back panel and unplug electrical connections to socket
5) From front of oven, remove glass cover over old oven light bulb and remove flange that holds socket and bulb
6) Remove old socket from mounting flange and discard.
7) Place new socket into mounting flange
8) Screw mounting flange and new socket into the oven from front. Reattach electrical connections from back.
9) Screw in new light bulb from front
10) Replace existing glass cover over new light bulb and snap wire holder in place
11) Replace back panel
11) Plug in range
12) Slide range back to original position
13) Turn on power
Works like a charm! Thanks for having the parts after 30 years!

pulled my range out and cleaned the sides!!removed the screws...pulled out the element....re-connected the wires and reattached the element...HEY it actually Worked...I installed it during commercials!and I am 75!!everything was great and you delivered it by UPS in 2 days!

part arrived very quickly. removed the rear cover. removed the old control unit. installed the new(retro fit) unit using the supplied wiring sheet diagram. The whole operation took about 30 minutes. Works great. Thanks PartSelect.

Disconnect power. . . Remove control panel, pull wire connectors,[note location] remove old switch, install new, install wires, snip stem to length, set knob . . . Turn on power - works. [Note this is a live part even when not connected]

1. Bought replacement part said to replace old switch.
2. Pulled old switch out.
3. Replacement part did not match. Would have to take entire switch panel apart to change to this part.
4. Multiple-part instructions very poor. For my switch unreadable.
5. Old part was "push to turn". New part was not.
6. Knob did not fit new switch. Old shaft was "D" shaped. New is square.
7. Gave up. Need to call repair shop.
8. Hope this helps.

The first thing was to watch U-Tube . The replacement burner was being
replaced in a GE glass top range. Exter tools were required than depicted
in the U-Tube project. The project overall was not dificult for me however I was a general contracter for over 25 years

The initial symptom involved the heating elements turning off and on rapidly once high temperatures were reached. After cycling power to the range this went away for a few weeks. When the symptom reappeared, it involved the oven-on light turning on and off, even when the oven control was in the off position. This persisted after a power-cycle so I decided to replace the control board. The actual repair was quite easy. The hardest part was removing the sheet with the button labels from the old unit (I ended up inserting a knife and twisting it to separate the adhesive, which is only around the edges) and fixing it to the new unit in the proper position. The latter would have been much easier if I had realized up front that there are handy guide ridges against which to align it! Like another person whose repair story I read, the existing wire colors were not all an exact match. However each connector's function was clearly labeled on the PCB of the old board, so I had no trouble matching them up (line voltage was red, not black, and broil was blue, not purple). The only other difficulty I encountered was that the old yellow bake wire had a plastic guard on the connector and this did not fit in the appropriate hole on the new unit. I merely pried the guard off with a small screwdriver and used the bare spade-connector, which fit in the hole nicely. There was a small amount of exposed wire left, so i wrapped it in electrical tape although I doubt that was necessary.

I removed the oven door by unlocking the hinges and pulling out. Set on workbench (with towel/pad) and removed handle, four screws, then bottom and inside panel screws, then one nut to finally be able to get at the inner glass insert. Removed insulation and then took an extra hour to really clean all surfaces (middle glass was quite greasy due to inner glass being broken for a while. Reassembly wasn't bad, but took a while to figure out that the two thin 2" red spacers belonged around the two handle screws. This was tough to figure out as they come off when taking the handle off, but you can't see them, so didn't know where they came from! Anyway, if you're just a bit handy, you can do this job.

First shut the power to the stove,then had to slide the stove out so I could get at the back to remove the panel screws.Once you have the back off remove the knob on the front.Under the knob is 2 phillips screws that you need to remove.Next I took the new switch and matched up the wires to the old switch.Reinstall is the reverse.Once the switch is in place you must remove the excess shaft to match the length of the old one.This is done with the use of 2 pliers,you grasp the shaft with both pliers and snap it off where you need it.The kit comes with spacers so you have got to match up the right one so the switch is solid on the shaft.This finishes the project,next turn the power back on and check that all is working ok.Job finished.

the first end cap broke when I tried to tighten the screws, the end cap holes were too small, Thirty some dollars down the drain. Drilled out the second end cap before I tighten the screws, worked fine. Make sure you drill out the holes of the end caps or they will split out and you lose your money. There are no warnings about this problem.

New one a little different ,but it was marked for wiring!
Had to install upside down because wires would not reach right side up!
Had to pull back side of knob out and turn 180 degrees and glue in knob, so knob would be right side up!
Works fine! Now all burners work again!

I removed the back to gain access to the control board. Then I unplugged each wire on the old control and plugged it in on the new control - one at a time. Then removed the old control, removed the face from the old control and put it on the new one. Next I installed the new control and replaced the back. Job completed - oven works great.

Replace part an wires