JBP66BY5AD General Electric Range - Instructions

Turned the wire protector to the side. Turned out the old bulb and replaced it with the new. Turned the wire protector back in place and I'm like new.

First of all I did this repair because the wire to the burner shorted out. I did the wire portion first - only then did I know I needed the switch kit. (The burner was operating while my old swithch was OFF). The first (wire replacement) repair took about 10 minutes - I followed the guidance on this web-site. The second repair (The switch) took about 20 minutes. The switch ws not the same as the original. Just be careful to mark each wire as you remove them from the old switch's posts. The posts on the switch are marked and you need to place them on the like-marked corresponding posts on the new switch. All is well, my burner is operational.

Your "virtual repairman" was fantastic. I would have purchased the wrong part without trhe diagnostic service. It said that 53% of the time the infinite switch was the problem. In my case it was 100%. Why I put up with this problem for 6 years I will never know.

Repair job was easy but longer than the 15 minutes that it said it would take.

I located and removed 2 sets of hex-head screws under the front lip of the cooktop, then lifted the entire cooktop to access the burner controls. Removed the wires and taped them, and took out the old control after removing 2 phillips head screws. Installed replacement part easily. Only tricky part is that the various shaft adapters don't quite work with my knob. I'll fix it completely with a bit of epoxy and the adapters they sent.

1. The infinite switch had several knobs which would fit the switch shaft. Read the directions included with the switch in order to have the shaft fit the proper knob. You can break the shaft with two pairs of pliers. 2. Move the stove away from the wall and unplug it. 3. Remove the 1/4 screws from the back side of the stove and remove the back panel, exposing the switch. 4. Remove the wires one at a time and put them on the new switch. The terminals are L1, L2, P, H1 & H2. The Pilot (p) has a smaller terminal so you don't get it mixed up. Generally L1 is black, L1 is red, P is yellow, H1 and H2 can be blue, brown, yellow, orange or one of these colors striped on a white wire. 5. Remove the old switch from the stove and be sure to save the two mounting screws. 6. Position the new switch so that the side of the switch marked "top" is on top. 7. Install the screws on the new switch and put the knob on it. 8. Carefully test the burner. 9. Unplug the stove and put the back cover on.

Remove the front panel, at which time the spring loaded door slammed closed while the paned and handle were in my hand. Fortunately I had a star bit to fit the screw holding the door and panel together.The parts should come with 2 screws since the part has holes for 2. note: the factory installed handle only had 1 screw in each side.

it was hard to figure out the instructions from A switch to B switch to my switch. The first switch was no good the second one was good. prayer book didn't hurt.thank

The part was just like the old one and would have been an easy fix except our range suffered from a lighting hit. The clips had melted together. Called a dealer and asked about a new wiring harness. He said in those cases just cut the clip off and hard wire with wire clips,or firecrackers. We used wire nuts and taped all together and the oven works just great. Nothing is ever as easy as it should be.

The repair was easy except what caused it to break .Their was a missing screw on the door itself that was never put on or came off could not find old screw,once it was replaced new part was stronger than before.

I disassembled parts and panels from the oven door as needed to remove the handle end caps. It was not clear to me what the best disassembly method was, because I used a different method when assessing the problem as when I performed the actual part replacement. The quickest way is to take the top two screws on the inside oven panel loose, but leave them in their retainers. Remove the side trim screws on the plastic upper side pieces. Remove the four sheet metal screws on the bottom of the door, located the far right and left (two on each side). Carefully split the inner and outer oven panels to access the mounting screws for the oven handle. Replace the oven handle and reverse the disassembly process.

removed old handles and slid door apart align new handles and re-installed new handles. One person job.

The repair was quite simple. I pulled the range away from the wall. Removved 6 screws from the back panel with a nut driver. I the disconnected the wires from the clock control and then removed the 4 screws securing the control board. I loosened the faceplate from the old control with a hair dryer and removed it with a knife. I afixed the faceplate to the new control with two sided tape. Connected the wires to the new control and secured it with the 4 screws. The only problem one might have is the instructions referenced black and purple wires whereas mine were red and blue respectively. Reattached the back panel with the six screws and plugged the power plug back in. Moved the range back against the wall and tested the oven which tested perfectly. Note please disconnect power before proceeding with the installation of the new part.

Moved the range out and disconnected the power cord. Removed the back cover.Disconnected wires after labeling the them. Removed the unit from the range,Carefully removed the front decal and applied to the new unit. Installed the new unit into range and wired according to the instruction and put the covers back on. plugged back in and tested the range and everything functioned correctly.

I ordered the part on a Monday and Tuesday afternoon I received it! I went a route I often take first. I read the instructions of others before starting my job and opened the top of the range. There are two screws under the range top in front near the oven door, one on either side, that must be removed. After this I opened the top of the range and positioned a piece of 2X2 about 20 inches long at an angle to hold the top up while I worked on the burner. I then used my phone to take a close up picture of the old burner while in place in my range so I could refer to it when putting the new one in place. I then took a pair of needle nose pliers and pulled off the wiring, then removed lock washers under the burner and removed the old burner, being careful not to lose the washers and springs. I took the new burner and layed it along side the old one to see exactly how it would be placed under the glass cover. I replace the springs and lock washers then referred to my photo and replace all the wires to the burner as they had been. Then lowered the top in place and put the screws back in place. That was it. I'm a 67 year old female, if I can do this, anyone can!

Required new light lens for oven this type has five (5) of them; only the oven temp light lens was damaged. Ordered from Parts Select.com received item fast in seven days. removed rear guard plate, than oven temperture switch than slid the neon light switch off of the light lens.Lens is removed from the front panel. Installation is reverse order.