JGBP24BEH5CT General Electric Range - Instructions

This web site is awesome!!! their forum told me what part i needed, and they shipped it out, super fast, i couldn't hardly believe it! I tried using the Sears Parts web site for my "kenmore" oven and that was a joke, seriously! no more kenmore for me, thanks. It took this site to figure out that i really had a G.E. with a kenmore name on it.
I found out that even though the old ignitor glows well, it may not pull enough amps to open the gas valve.
First i disconnected the two wires on the gas safety valve that lead to the ignitor. These are accessed after taking the bottom drawer out. Then using a nut driver, i took out the two screws holding the bottom of the burner tube. Then inside the oven, i took out the racks and then the two screws in the back on the bottom. Then took out the bottom plate. I removed the one screw on the front of the burner tube, and removed the burner tube with the ignitor attached. I cut the wires off the old ignitor and attached them to the new ignitor with the supplied ceramic wire nuts. I attached the new ignitor to the burner tube and put everything back together. The bottom screws on the burner tube were very difficult for me to reach. Almost impossible to get both hands there to do the job.

First shut down electric power to oven. remove
oven racks and botton tray. Removed boiler rack and door. Next unscrew 2 bolts holding igniter. remove nuts or cap for two white electric wires.
installed new igniter, hooked backup wires. replaces racks and tray and that was it, job done.

Opened the back and installed the new one. The only problem was pealing the paper of the old one that shows the labels. Strongly recommend to buy that part also. The job will be more neat.

Straight forward as per instructions. Removed old igniter, replaced and tested new one and it worked. However, the gas oven would not turn of. Valve may be defective. Knob control is not stripped and turned to full stop. Troubleshooting continues. Part(s) and instructions worked perfectly.

Simply took out old burners replaced them with new burners, no tools needed.

It was easy. I removed the guts. Removed the heat deflector (one nut). Then removed the igniter and the cover over the wires in order to unplug the wires so I could work with attaching the new part on top of the counter. Replaced everything and it worked great. When the old igniter did not work, the gas valve would not let the gas into the oven, Once replaced, you can here the gas flow in and ignite. Repair man wanted $65 to show up and $175 for part and labor. I paid $77 for the part and did it myself. I do not consider myself handy.

Simply removed old burners. Placed leveling nuts in place. Replaced new burners in place.

Two set screws in rear; removed easily with a screwdriver. Old oven floor lifted out easily; new oven floor dropped in just as easily; set screws re-installed. Done. Pleasantly surprised at how easy this went.

Removed grills, oven bottom, heat deflector, and the two igniter mounting screws. Pulled out igniter, removed two wire twist caps and old igniter. Cut off ragged ends of wires coming from the stove side and re-stripped the wire ends. Attached oven side wires to new igniter wires using new twist caps. Reassembled everything in reverse order. Tested oven operation to ensure that the gas ignited promptly. (It did).

They turned out to be 1/4 inch hex head screws. Only after soaking with penetrating oil could we budge them. There must be a special tool to loosen them on the back side where there is no room to get a socket on them and since they are in the heated part of the oven they are almost welded in. We were successful, but could only get one screw back in. So never use your oven with the door left open as I did if you do not want to repeat what happened to me.

Removed the two screws that hold the oven bottom to expose the glow element. Also removed the lower draw to get to the connections. The job was only complicated by getting to the two bolts holding the glow plug to the oven frame. Getting them off and getting the new plug on was not easy with standard tools. There was not a lot of room to work the hex bolts and i wound up cutting the old unit out and attaching the bolts to the frame and cutting slots in the new unit so I could slot it in. That worked. The glow plug was the problem and the oven came right on.

PULL RANGE OUT FROM WALL & ALSO REMOVED OVEN DOOR BY SLIDING UP. WORKING FROM INSIDE OVEN & ALSO BEHIND I REPLACED PART . ALWAYS " UNPLUG " RANGE BEFORE YOU START.

Unplugged the oven. First i removed the 2 screws from the pan at the bottom of the oven and took the pan out. Next i took out the drawer underneath and took the screws out of the pans below to get to the ignitor. Unscrewed the ignitor and cut the wires below it to splice the new ignitor on. Spliced the two sets of wires and put the ceramic wire nuts on. Replaced the top and bottom pans and put the drawer back. plugged the oven back in and started the oven right up. Pretty easy.

Go to utube videos for this are there

I removed the bottom pan and then removed the flame extender to get access to the igniter. I removed the two screws and cut the wires. I then wired the new igniter and used the ceramic wire nuts that came with the part. After that I installed the igniter. It was very easy to do this repair.