ECBP70SK2SS General Electric Range - Instructions

Some of the original TO-9 switches were fused by the heat. I made them functional again with a cutter on a rotary tool, but to make the repair properly, I ordered the new control unit and the faceplate graphics. Note the guide tabs at the bottom and right edges when replacing the graphics. Don't plan on reusing your old graphics (unless you are a wizard at removing the very strong adhesive).
To gain access to the part, remove the 2 screws (part 715) in the bottom of the control assembly with a stubby screwdriver. Using a nut driver, remove the two screws (part 1000) on the back at the corners, being careful not to drop them behind the oven. Pull out at the bottom, then move the whole unit toward you. Note the position of the wires. A digital photo can help here. Remove the wiring and 4 screws holding the clear plastic TO-9. Put the screws in the new unit in the same holes and rewire. Put the assembly in place top-first and align the screw holes. Finding the same thread placement for the lower screws can be tricky, so start them gently.

When we moved into our new home I discovered that the oven that came with the home did not have any racks in it. I ordered these racks because they said they were compatible with Hotpoint ovens. However, when the racks arrived they were just a tad too wide to easily slide in the oven. With a bit of force my husband was able to shove the racks in. Luckily I don't cook enough to care if they are moved again because I don't think they'll come out easily.

TURNED OFF CIRCUIT BREAKER FIRST. Pulled Stove from wall, Removed 5 screws to remove back plate. Unplugged 2 spade electrical connections. Unpluged temp. sensor plug. Opened oven door and removed 2 screws holding element to top of oven. removed screw holding temp probe to element. Installed the elment in the reverse order starting with the temp probe. when finished with install, I tested the unit before covering the back. I used a oven temp tester to make sure that when the element went out that the temp probe was not damaged. Everything checked out fine and I finished installing the back cover and putting stove in place. Cleaned up area and JOB DONE.

After replacing the dual element and still having a problem with the range, I started troubleshooting the switch. Fortunately, our range has 2 dual burners, and the switches are the same, so I was able to move the switch and see the problem follow the switch (also, using a VOM, I could tell there was a short in the switch).
Since I'd already replaced the element, I only had to work on the controls, which are very easy to access.
I carefully documented all the connections (took a couple of pictures as well), and swapping out the switch took almost no time.
Lesson learned - follow the manufacturer's requirement to use only cookware with a flat bottom. This tea kettle only sat flat around the outside edge. That caused both the element and switch to blow. The "hot cooktop" light stayed on constantly, even after the element was replaced.

Used a pliers to remove old bake element (2 nuts that none of our socket set would fit). Removed the back panel with screwdriver. Unattached bake element from wires. Then removed old element and put new element in, pulled new element wires through back and reattached to range. Screwed back in the oven with the pliers. Closed up the back panel with the screws.

unplug stove first...take back of stove off to get to burner switch remove wires colors coded.. get new switch put wires on the same way.plug stove in test burner...very simple to replace.and save $$$$$$$$

First I shut off power to the unit. Then I removed the oven shelves. Next, I removed the two screws that hold the element in place using a socket ratchet. Then I carefully pulled the element out a few inches. I had some clothes pins with me because I read how some people had problems with the wire leads slipping back into the unit insulation. When the terminals and wire leads were exposed, I clamped the clothes pins on the wires between the leads and the oven wall so the wires could not be pulled back into the wall. Then I disconnected the wires from the old element. Next, I connected the new element to the wires, removed the clothes pins and gently nudge the element terminals back into the oven wall. Then I put the screws back to secure the element. Finally, I turn the power on and set the oven to 400 degrees. When I saw the element get red hot in a couple of minutes, I knew it was fixed. I've used it several times since then.

Unplug stove first. Raised the stove top and propped up useing wooden spoon and wife assistance holding up. Pay attention to spot brackets hand to top. Removed sheet metal screws from bracket clamp holding burner in place. Removed one extension bracket from old burner and transfeered to new burner. Removeing one bracket clamp allows the other one to act like a hinge and make for easy removal and replacement. Back of burner had corresponding numbers which made it easy to replace brackets in same place as old. I carefully take one electrical wire at a time from old burner and transfeered to the new burner. Replaced burner same way it came off.

Turn off power to oven,remove two screws holding element in place,pull element forward approx. 1" and unplug wires,remove element. Install new element in reverse order of above.

Removed the old element with a nut diver and put the new one in. Very simple instalation.

Amazingly the part arrived in just two days...

My T-Bone steaks are cooked just the way I like them again.

MikeS, Birdsboro, PA

I unplugged the stove then took the oven racks out. Then I took a nutdriver and took out the 2 screws that held the Bake Element in place. Pulled the 2 prong's out of the oven and removed the wires from the tips. They pulled right off.
Took out the new Bake Element and reversed the process. Attached the 2 wires put the 2 prong's back into the holes and screwed the 2 holding screws back in. Plugged the Stove back in and turned her on. Doing it myself saved me $150.00.

Disconnect power, then remove racks from oven, locate heat sensor by the broiler element. Use ratchet with extension and correct socket to remove the bolt directly under the heat sensor, pull the sensor out till you see the plug, disconnect the plug and then connect new sensor to it push wire back thru and then rebolt the new sensor on, thats it...

took off cover, pulled all wires off switch, pushed wires on new switch, put cover back on. Whalaa..

1- opened oven door
2- unscrewed 2 screws underneath top with a socket wrench
3- unscrewed clips that held burner
4-used needle nose pliers to pull off wire clips off old burner
5- placed wires onto new burner
6- opened clips to make it easier to reinsert burner
7-reattached burner
8-Replaced top

The hardest part was unscrewing the 2 screws that held the top in place due to the position of the screws

After reading all the repair stories I knew that their wasn't any extra wire when the old element is removed. Well, even with that knowlage one of the wires came loose and slipped back in. Fortunately I was able to remove a panel in back and push it back through. I was afraid I would have to take off the whole back but instead there is a panel covering the wire running down the center of the oven. After removing 5 screws with the same nut driver as the one for the coils I had it done in minutes. I had no problem and I am NOT a 'do it yourselfer'. Oh, did I mention I ordered the part on Friday and received it on Saturday standard shipping? Pays to live the next state over from the place shipping it.