JBP21BB1 General Electric Range - Instructions

Very easy repair, Pulled burner coil out, removed old burner bowl. Put in new burner bowl, plugged burner coil back in... easy as 1,2,3

Removed burner element and put in bowl

Watched a repairman do it the last time for $200.00. This time I unplugged the stove, unscrewed four screw nuts holding the upper rear cover, unplugged old wires, reconnected new ones, fed them thru to the front, attached them to the new block, screwed the block into place, replaced back cover, stuck the element into place, made my little brother plug it back in and turn it on first. It worked. Cost me $20.00 to do what the repairman did the last time. I also replaced the reflector pans. No-brainer.

Removed all surface elements, threw away old burner bowls, put the 3 older surface elements back in place and inserted the new element.

The burner bowls look great. Now I won't wait so long to replace.

Thanks.

very easy..pull out burner, slide new one in..like a plug.

none of the "replacement" burner bowls i found at
store like home depot/ bed bath and beyond and such didn't fit.. so much for universal sizing..

thank you parts select.

a very satisfied customer

After unplugging the range I took the rear sheet metal panel at the top off with a nut driver to expose the wiring connections. The next step was to remove the single screw holding the old part in place. (under the drip pan) Once free I snipped the old part from the wires and then taped the new female ends to the old wires with black electrical tape. From rear I carfully pulled the old wires through the back until I could reach the new wiring connections. Unplugged old, plugged in new and replaced the rear metal cover. Then I put the screw that holds the new block bracket in place, replaced drip pan, and burner. The final step was to plug the range back in and check to see if the burner worked. It did and I was done. Approx. 5 minutes

Pulled out burner and put new bowls in. Looks like a new stove!

Took 5 minutes to replace the 4 bowls. Ordered the bowls one day & they arrived the next day All went perfect.

1. Pull out range and unplug from socket.
2. Lift range lid.
3. Remove back panel. Loosen the 6 - 1/4" nuts, then lift up slightly, which compresses the "latch" at the top middle. Let down and panel comes off easily.
(Note: Do not remove wires yet)
4. Remove control knob from front panel by pulling gently, exposing 2 small tap screws
5. unscrew the 2 small tap screws, freeing the switch.
6. NOTE THE EXISTING WIRING! Each terminal has a letter. Take a photo or drawing for reference, because the new switch's post locations were not the same as the old.
7. In my case I had to replace the terminal block kit with a new one. (don't try the aftermarket one's at Home Depot...bad idea event though they say Hotpoint) so I ran those wires first. Easy removal of old, only one wire clip, then fish the wires through. Secure with tap screw at burner location.
8. Hook up the wires. The ones coming from the burner don't seem to matter which one goes to which post but make sure you're replacing them on the posts that the original were on. What I did was just unhook the old posts one at a time and find the corresponding letter on the new one.
9. Break off stem at length of old switch with pliers. make sure you find where off and on are on the switch. Orient the off at the top, then push through from back of range.
10. Screw the 2 tap screws in, securing the switch.
11. Place the orange retainer oriented with flat side the same as the knob, and push the knob back in place.
12. Close lid, replace back panel
13. Insert drip pan/burner into terminal block and secure in drip pan. If your burner plugs are corroded or exposed, replace the burner as it will short out.
14. Plug in to socket and test before pushing range back into place.

Turn the breaker off to the oven.Removed both wire racks,using a 1/4 nut driver unscrewed the old element.The flashlight was so I could see inside the oven.Having removed the two screws ,the old element came right out.With my needle nose pliers removed the wires one at a time,replacing them on the new element as they came off.Replaced the two screws holding the element ,replace my wire rack, turned the breaker back on.As for the price for the part ,it was less than a service call from a repairman,which would not have included the part.

unplugged unit pulled it away from wall took off the backplates traced wire to plug replaced with part ordered very smooth operation. the most impressive thing to me was i ordered part on computer and it was at my door in 30 hours awesome.

Old gasket had become brittle. Was able to find the 22 yr old model and part on PartSelect (could not track it down on GE's site. Inner panel was removed with four screws. Old gasket came out. Installed new gasket making sure the bead fit into the groove provided in the door panel. Re-assembled. All is well. Thanks

First I made sure the power was off then I removed the back cover. I took the new switch in hand and took one wire at a time from the old switch and put them on the new switch. I removed the old switch and replaced it with the new one. Made test to be sure it worked. Replaced back cover, job finished.

Per the instructions included with part.

We had to buy star shaped screw driver bits to get the screws out. After that it was easy, unscrewed 2 screws, removed the old end pieces, and replaced with new end pieces and new screws. We used the original spacers and nuts. Repair was quick and easy. We found these same parts on the Sears website for $33 each. Here they were only $14 each.