JB905KH4CC General Electric Range - Instructions

Installed the new brackets at the back of the drawer with the 2 screws provided. The new rear mount design is much better than than the old side mount.

Easy

Unplugged the power supply. Took off the cover on the back of the unit. Unplugged the wires to the broiler element. Removed the bolts(4) holding the element inside the oven. Removed the temprature sensor from element and took it out. Put it all back the way it came out. Worked great. Took 25 minutes.

The repair was so simple. First i killed the circuit breaker then removed five screws upluged element from contacts and removed the element plugged new element into the contacts popped the screws back and was done.

Gizmo = Bake Element held in place with 2 bolts inside of oven. Removing them only difficult because they are so deep in oven. I did not have the correct size nut driver so I started with my socket wrench then switched to putting the correct size socket on the end of a long screwdriver. After removing the 2 bolts fund element did not slide out easily so went to back of stove and removed a metal protective cover. Found electrical lines secured to the ends of the element. Had someone hold element while I pulled each of the 2 loose - at which time bake element fell loose. Put new one in by reversing the process. That night wife set stove to Clean - and said best it has been cleaned in years.

Ordered the bake element part from partselect.com. When the part arrived I removed the 2 6mm screws from the element, I used two clips to hold the wires in place so that they didn't receed back into the stove. I installed the bake element, installed the two scews ans was done. It took all of 10minutes.

Lily in Florida

I too made the mistake of cleaning the oven with the shelves in place. It doesn't really harm them...but they turn a tarnished brown color...they look dirty. These replacement shelves were a perfect match. Pricing was reasonable, communication was terrific and shipping was super fast. Happy camper here :-)

First, disconnect electrical power to the stove by turning the main fuse to the off position. Confirm that there is no electrical power in the stove. The ceramic top is held by 10 screws that are closest to the ceramic surface. Other screws hold other parts of the stove and not need to be touched when opening the stove. Once the ceramic surface is off there is access to the burners and the various lights and switches. It is important to determine whether it is the burner that is defective or the switch. Inasmuch as the switch has many moving parts, the switch is more likely to be the defective part. Check the switch by gaining access to the switch connections. There is a metal frame held by two screws on each side in the outside of the stove (same area where the initial 10 screws were removed to separate the ceramic surface). Remove these screws and flip the switch assembly so all the wires and cables are accessible. I checked the switch with a continuity tester and by trial and error determined that there were two connections that in all the remainder three switches had continuity when the switch was in the on position while the suspect switch did not. Replaced the suspect switch by pulling the wires and replacing them in identical positions in the new switch (a smartphone camera became very useful to remind me were exactly each cable's connection was). Restore power by turning the fuse to the on position. Check that the burner lights up. If not, change the burner as well. Same simple procedure of disconnecting and connecting cables to the burner). Make sure to disconnect power before working on the burner. Replace the screws that hold the switch assembly. Replace the ceramic top. Replace the screws. Set stove back in its hole. Reset fuse. Total time: 35 mins. Total cost: Approx $25.00 (switch + delivery). Quoted repair by local appliance repair service: $487.50. No contest. Next project is to fix a leaky water dispenser in the refrigerator.

Opened the box removed old element with socket put new one in tightened and voila ?? Just in time for thanksgiving ??

I just removed the drawer and installed the rear supports as instructed on paper included with the part.

I didn't know anything about this repair, other than I was replacing a part, so it never occurred to me that I needed to make sure there was no power to the oven. When I pulled the element out, there was a large spark. I flipped the breaker off, then finished the R&R.

Make sure you turn power off at the breaker, then replace the element.

Tim

opened oven door and removed two 1/4 " screws from range top. lifted range top and propped open like a car hood with a 1" diam dowel rod. marked on new element the wire color locations from old element and removed wires. removed the two small screws and clips that hold the element to the range top and removed element. Matched where the mounting screws locate to the new element. Installed new element in reverse order.

1.Disconnect the power cord. 2.Remove two screws pull the element out. 3.Disconnect the wires attach to element. 4. Install the new element connecting the wires. 5. Align element with holes and tighten screws. 6. Plug in power cord and begin to cook.

Removed the rear panel from the Range using the nut driver. pulled the terminal wires off the back of the heating element. Double checked if there was continuity across the heating element terminals before removing the element. If there is none, its bad. remove the two screws inside the oven holding the element in place. Once free, lift the front of the element to about 30 degrees and pull towards you. Insert the new element in the reverse manner then secure it using the two screws. Push the terminal wires onto the terminals on the back of the element and reinstall the rear panel.

My son did it by using pliers. He took out the screws that held the element in and pulled it out and used the pliers to pull the wires out of the old one and snapped the new one in . put it back together. about 5 minutes.