JB910KK1CC General Electric Range - Instructions

I thought it was the burner thermostat, so I replaced the burner unit. By coincidence, the ceramic outer portion of the burner was cracked in two places, but otherwise intact. That was not the problem, though since the new burner did the same thing as the old one. Then I new it was the Infinite Control Switch, so I ordered it. Replacing it was easy. I turned off the cooktop circuit breaker and made sure no power was going to it. It is powered by 240 volts so you need to be very careful to turn off the power before doing any servicing on it. I then carefully pried up the glass cooktop and lifted it out, so it wouldn't break. By taking off the control knobs, and removing several small Phillips head screws all around the metal cooktop frame and just under the edge of the glass cooktop, I could lift the glass top off from the cooktop, and place it on some newspaper so it didn't get broken. It is important to keep the rest of the cooktop upright. The burners are not fastened down, and only gravity holds them in place. They normally sit on two springloaded pins, one on each side, and the weight of the glasstop pushes them down to their proper setting. So don't mess with them, and make sure each side remains on the two pins after you're done and before putting the glasstop back on. As for the switch, you need to remove two small 1/4 inch metal screws (a socket is very handy for this), one on each side of a metal framework that holds all the switches. After removing that framework, I carefully turned it over and found the correct switch for the burner that wasn't working. In my case, it was the closest right hand burner, which is also the biggest and has the option of having a big, small or both elements turned on, depending on how you turn the control switch. I then carefully pulled off each wire lead, with a needlenose plier to avoid damaging them, and immediately put each wire onto the corresponding same connection on the new switch. Take a close look at the wires on the old switch to make sure you plug them into the same connectors on the new switch. It's pretty straightforward. There may have been one or two small screws holding the switch onto the framework, but I don't recall right now. It was very easy to see how to remove and then reattach it. Then reverse the above steps and reinstall the cooktop, turn on the power and you should be in business!

Pull oven out away from the wall, unplugged from outlet, removed center cover by removing 5 sheet metal screws. disconnected thermostat sensor from control cable. Opened oven door and removed screw that holds thermostat sensor. Pulled thermostat sensor out replaced with new sensor. Plugged sensor in to control cable. Replace panel and screws. Then my wife made me clean the oven. I recommend making the repair when your wife is not home.

0. As a safety precaution, unplug the range or hit the relevant fuse breaker before you start. You might also want to grab a flashlight. Definitely do not try to do this while the oven is hot.
1. Pinch the wire over the light bulb cap to remove it. This is inside the oven at the back.
2. Pop off the hemispherical glass cap.
3. Unscrew the old light bulb, and screw the new light bulb in its place.
4. Put the cap back.
5. Secure the cap by putting the wire back in its slots on the cap.

No tools needed, the cap is just held in place with pressure from the wire.

replaced lights in refrigirator and freezer

it went well as compared to getting a new ~~800$ cooktop and ~~150 to install, I took a shot for 30$ bucks and it worked great!! problem solved and great support ! !! thanks for all your help

Not only did we (my wife did help) replace the dual element but afterwards we realized the control switch was not functioning properly and so that was replaced as well, and now our appliance works as intended. Also the instructions, are helpful as well. We used care not to force or over tighten anything and with two sets of eyes and the extra hands everything went much better. Anything that was removed was noted as to it's location and replaced .

Turned the wire protector to the side. Turned out the old bulb and replaced it with the new. Turned the wire protector back in place and I'm like new.

Easy

This one is simple. unscrew a portion of the door, install the spacer and screw back together. Worked well.

Really easy. Part came in rapid time and was the right part. Went on web and got instructions with video how to install.

I watched a video of a similar model to familiarize myself with the required steps needed. I opened the back and disconnected the power cord and ground wires connected to the removable socket I then removed the lightbulb and removable socket from the oven interior side. I then removed the defective light socket cup and replaced it with the part I purchased. After replacing the removable socket and lightbulb, the bracket holding the light cover functioned perfectly with the new light socket cup. Final steps were to reconnect the power and ground wires to the removable socket. I then replaced the back cover over the light socket cup area. One word of advise. Be very careful when removing and reconnecting the cables to the removable light socket.

Remove the top back panel to expose the switch. Remove the switch knob & mounting bezel and then unscrew the 2 mounting screws from the front. Replace the wires one by one and follow the enclosed directions in the event that this is an upgrade for an older switch. Remount the switch from the front and replace the back panel.

Take off 6 screws of back cover of the range, unplug the white wire. Go to the inside of oven, pull out racks. At the top of the oven is your Broiler element, in the center you will see a rod sticking out with one screw holding it in place. Take out screw and pull temperature sensor out toward you. Reverse steps to put it back together.

This item worked as described. I paid more for this 'oem' probe than the generic 1 because i didn't want to chance it not working as others have reported.
- works great. tested it....snaps in, reads correctly, snaps out.

PULL RANGE OUT FROM WALL & ALSO REMOVED OVEN DOOR BY SLIDING UP. WORKING FROM INSIDE OVEN & ALSO BEHIND I REPLACED PART . ALWAYS " UNPLUG " RANGE BEFORE YOU START.