J2S968BH2BB General Electric Range - Instructions

turned off power to oven; pulled out old bulb (unscrewed glass cover to access). Noted the direction of the electrical prongs when pulled bulb out... and inserted new bulb. Turned back on power to oven - bulb worked

I was pretty upset as the grate wobbled, so I went on line and looked for GE Profile parts. To my amazement, I found the little rubber feet quite easily, and within 2 days they were here at my home. I simply had to stick them in the holes; however, I noted that they did not fit real tight, so I removed them and shot a little glue on them, and they have been in place ever since. Thanks to you guys, I am a happy camper now!!!

Very easy to remove the parts and to reassemble

I'm well past ninety and my sweet daughter inserted the tiny prongs. I was delighted to find a place that had the bulbs. Thank goodness for the internet ! (I'm not too old for that)

I checked various sites on the net and decided that the temperature sensor was the problem. The GE price for the replacement part was about $105, most of the other sites offered the sensor in the $70 range. PartSelect $12.95 When the part arrived, I removed a small self taping screw, pulled the high temperature wire connector into the oven space, disconnected the quick disconnect fitting, attached the new temperature sensor, pushed the connecting wire into its hole, replaced the screw and that was it. I probably saved about $200 in parts and labor over what a local repairman would have charged. Oh yes!! I first disconnected the power at the breaker box. Very important.

Took the oven door off and removed the inner door panel, put new glass assembly part in and reassembled. The hard part was getting the door hinges locked back into place.

Use screwdriver to pull down tab on both hinges. Good hind on door and as you lower to full open door will come off. Pull old bottom, insert new bottom and put door back in slots. Close and then reopen to first position and push tabs back up to lock position

First I removed two screws holding head in place and carefully lifted assembly up using flat screwdriver. I separated old igniter from feed wire with gentle pull. I reversed assembly after cleaning old gasket residue. torque screws back in place after cleaning with small ss wire brsh in dremel tool. Tighten in steps to firm light touch. I used new gashket and ignitor.

recieved part the next day. looked different but I followed instructions and the part worked perfect.

First I removed the oven drawer. Verified that the support clips would rest correctly on rail, then review installation document with supports to locate alternate location for replacement supports. I did have to personally locate 2 fastners not provided with the supports ot complete installation. After installation, oven drawer opens and closes smoothly.

Removed torx screws for door handle as well as torx screws for both hinges to separate the door halves to extract broken glass and to install new glass panel. Other reviews said not to remove hinge screws, however I had no problem reinstalling them.

Sensor is in rear and on top ov oven. What could be a 10" job took 45". My problem was the oven door was diffinately in the way. Also I wear bifocals which makes me tilt head to see nuts. I felt like a contortionist. HINT: remove door and give yourself some room to work.

My stove didn't seem to be getting enough power for the oven to heat up and the burners to get hot enough. When I checked the connection of the electric cord I found that one of the 3 terminals that the plug connects to was broken off. When the new part came I removed the old part by first disconnecting the 3 wires [black,white(ground),red] and then using a small but long 1/4 socket (that I found at Lowes)I removed the 2 screws that held the old part to the stove and the green screw under it holding the flat copper piece that also connects under the white ground wire of the part. I mounted the new piece on with the 2 1/4 screws. The new part comes with a piece of copper that is for grounding the part to the stove. When I compared it to the old part it was a little different. I first screwed the copper piece onto the stove (under the part) with the green screw then I screwed the white wire over the copper piece to the center terminal(you have to make the hole of the copper piece line up to the screw hole). I connected the other 2 wires and then connected the electric cord to the new terminal block and then put the back cover back on the stove and plugged it in. The clock came on I turned on the four burners they all got hot and red. I turned on the oven the element on the bottom got red I then turned on the broiler the top element got red. My stove is fixed.

REMOVED 2 SCREWS AND LOWERED LIGHT ASSEMBLY. UNPLUGGED THE OLD ONE, AND REPLACED IT WITH THE ITEM SENT TO ME

1) Shut off power to oven
2) Removed oven door using snap down hinges on door
3) Removed 4-phillips head screws holding the oven frame to cabinets
4) Pulled oven out of cabinet and set it on stool in front of opening
5) Remove 2-hex screws holding metal shield covering the electrical wiring on back of oven
6) Unplugged bad thermostat connector
7) Removed the single hex screw holding thermostat inside the oven
8) Pulled the thermostat and lead wire from oven
9) Fed the new thermostat wire into inside back of oven
10) Reverse steps 1-7