J765*01 General Electric Range - Instructions

No. 1 thing I did is I unplugged power supply to oven, second- unscrewed two screws that was holding cover plate and removed cover plate with a set of pliers, pulled element out and unscrewed two screw with power wires and installed new element, tightened screws and re-installed cover plate, tested oven turning on oven and in a few seconds element got hot, job done!

First I turned off the breaker to the oven,
then I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. I placed the new element in the oven, reconnected the wiring and replaced the two screws in the mounting bracket. I reset the breaker and turned the oven on to about 450 degrees for 30 minutes to burn off the new smell of the element. This job was very easy and I saved about $100 from paying a service to do it.

The customer service at PartSelect.com is wonderful. They assisted me to located a part for a 40 year old oven. Took only a few minutes to take the old one out and put the new one in. Process was pretty self explanitory.

The bake element in my 17 year old GE free standing electric range became defective. This element has 2 terminals -- black (240V) and white (neutral). While removing the element from the range, a 2nd black wire was pulled out of the back of the oven. This wire had a bare terminal connection and apparently had been loose behind the oven shell for all these 17 years. Inspection of this wire showed it carried 115V. I wrapped this wire with electrical tape and reinserted it into the insulation behind the oven shell.

The hardest part was working in the oven.

Turn off power
Open Oven Door, remove racks
Remove two mounting screws with nut driver.
Slide the element out to expose the wire connections.
Remove the screws and pull the element out.
Place the new element in oven.
Clamp on to each of the terminals with vice grips to keep from bending the element and install the screws.
Slide the element back into place and put the two mounting screws back in.

Put the racks back in and turn on the power and test. You may get a little smoke off the new coil.

Like I said the hardest part is leaning into the oven to attach the screws, do not sit on the oven door.

unplugged oven. removed oven racks.Disconnected old unit. Installed new unit. Very very simple

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. Then I replaced it with the new element that took only two days to arrive and that was without paying extra express shipping fees. It couldn't have been easier. I didn't even wait for my husband to come home and install it. I had an oven-baked meal ready when he got home. I was very satisfied.

Turned power off to oven. Unscrewed back plate exposing wires connected to heating element. It was difficult to unscrew the connections between them as it was hard to reach in because the oven door was in the way, but i finally succeeded. Unscrewed the bracket holding the burned out element and then attached the wires to the new element. Attached the bracket and I turned on the power. I then tested the oven and it worked.

I removed the burner, then the chrome dish. The nuts for the wires were rusted to the terminals, so I had to break the module apart and grind the nuts off.After that the new module went fine.

Turned off circuit. Unscrewed old element. Connected new element and screwed it in. Worked like a charm. It shipped very quickly. Could not be more satisfied; total repair: $30 and prevented me from buying a new oven; satisfaction: priceless.

Element was easy to remove two screws and unplug it. New element didn't have the same prongs and brace was different. Added ends to plug with screws supplied drilled new holes in oven back for brace. Works fine for a repair by a 65 year old woman.

Shut off power, Removed and disconnected element, connected and mounted new element!

The removal- replacement problem basically involves the shortness of the connector wires to the terminals. Because the burner is close to the top there is little room to use a screwdriver. The old unit used metal screws. The new came with open threaded holes in the terminals with two threaded screws. Used a small 1/4" ratchet which worked OK, but had to carefully bend the ends of the terminals to allow me to lower the element to an angle that would all room for ratchet action. (All design engineers should first have to work in maintenance before going to drawing board!)

S. Cooke, Houston Texas

My sons helped with that. They had to use a pliers to remove the old screws (did not have to notches). After that they they removed the element. Then the wires had to be disconnected (after we unplug the oven from the main power source. Then the wires were connected to the new heating unit. We only got one screw in so far will work on getting the second one in when they return tomorrow. I did turn on the oven and it works!!!

Thank you to the nice young man that helped me on the phone.

Open oven door about 3 inches - then holding on the door on either side - pull up and door slides off - put it aside - this is to make it easy for you to work inside oven compartment - at rear of oven where the element goes into the back wall - there are two nuts to remove - I did not have a nut drive so used a pliers (GE could have put slots in the nuts so one would just need a screwdriver) - pull element forward - there are wires attached to the 2 ends of the element - remove with screw driver - element is off - get new part from PartSelect -(and must say pleased with their service) - and reverse above procedure.