J2S968KH3CC General Electric Range - Instructions

Tried GE onoine parts department first and ordered the wrong part, then tried the customer hotline and they referred me to the right part but didn't explain that the design had been modified (the drawings had not been updated). I found an explanation on Part Select AND the parts were cheaper. Part Select sent the part, the necessary screw, and an appropriate instruction manual. Each support took less than a minute to screw in with a socket wrench.

Just pulled out the old one and pushed in the new one. Very easy. I was afraid to run this self-cleaning oven until I installed the new gasket. It worked perfectly.

I unfastened the three 1/4" rear screws, then the two support screws on top. I pulled the old element out,( plenty of slack wire luckily). disconnected it from the bayonet-type connections, then attached the new element. I secured the new element using the 1/4" screws. Bingo!

A replacement Meat Probe did not correct the problem. Next replaced the Meat Probe Jack which corrected the problem. 1) To replace the Probe jack use 1/2" wrench to remove the nut and washer holding probe to a bracket on the top part of oven, just inside the oven door.
2) Unscrew two screws under the lip of the top burners, raise up the whole top, using a short stick to hold-up the top while you access the Probe Jack.
3) With your fingers gently follow 2-braded jack wires laying ontop of the insulation batting. The 2 wires run under the batting to the loose Jack. Carfully remove the old probe jack and install the new jack and secure with 1/2" wrench.
4. Pull stove out so you can get behind, unplug the stove and remove metal paneling covering back of control Panel. Locate the two braded wires running from front of oven over batting to a whole in rear oven wall, just below control panel. Replace new wires from the new meat probe jack, following the same route to back of stove. Carefully pull wires back and trace location to back of control panel. Unplug the old jack and replace the new wires, being careful not kink or fray the new wires. Replace back panel and plug in stove, lower and secure the 2 screws holding the burner top down. Check Probe on front of stove to make sure your getting a probe reading. Your done in a few minutes.

Disconnect the power to the oven at the main breaker panel. Open the oven door to the first stop (not all the way open) and pull straight up to remove the oven door from the hinge. Using a 1/4" drive ratchet with 1/2" extension with 1/4" socket, remove the 1/4" sheetmetal screw holding the temperature probe at the center of the broiler mounting plate. Remove the two 1/4" screws holding the broiler mounting plate. Remove the two 1/4" screws holding the broiler element at the ceiling of the oven. Pull the broiler element out from the back of the oven and there should be two electrical connectors at the back of the broiler element. Pull the electrical connectors off of element. Replace the element and re-install in reverse order.

Very simple. Remove one screw and carefully pull the sensor until you see the connection point. Remove the old one and snap the new one in and guide the wire back and reassemble the screw. Be sure to remove the oven door for easy access.

This door required a lot more screws to be removed in order to remove the inside window assembly. I counted a total of 19 screws. That is why the estimated time is 30-60 minutes.

- remove door from range following the basic guide to removing any range door.
- place door on work surface with the outside facing down.
- remove three 1/4 socket screws from bottom and two star screws on top.
- Flip door over, remove outer door panel and set aside.
- There will be a separate pane of glass that needs to be removed. Remove 1/4 socket screws holding glass and set aside.
- Slide door over your work surface edge so you can remove the star screws holding the door hinges (from underneath). You could flip the door over but the door would have to be flipped back once the hinges were removed.
- Remove the remaining 1/4 screws holding the aluminum shielding.
- Remove the shielding being careful not to disturb the insulation around the window.
- Remove the damaged window. Take note of the writing and orientation on the aluminum window frame. (upper right if hinges were on the bottom)
- Set the new window in its place.
- Reverse the process by replacing the aluminum shield, hinges, than internal glass pane.
- Set outer door on top and holding everything together, flip door.
- Tighten the two star screws on top and the three 1/4 socket screws on the bottom.
- Replace door. Don't forget to lift up those hinge tabs before trying to close the door.
All done. Pat yourself on the back for a job well done.

had to remove the oven from the wall. once i realized that i had to take the side wall brackets off before removing the oven it was quite easy. then just had to remove oven door and slide the unit onto a chair while replacing the sensor. put it all back in and the wife was so happy to have her oven back she made me a batch of brownies. yum.

I pulled out the drawer and inserted the new support. This one inserts into the back of the drawer as opposed to the sides. I had ordered two of the replacements even though I only needed one and decided to replace both. I think it was a good move as the drawer works better than when we first got it. Just one simple screw made it complete.

I was pretty upset as the grate wobbled, so I went on line and looked for GE Profile parts. To my amazement, I found the little rubber feet quite easily, and within 2 days they were here at my home. I simply had to stick them in the holes; however, I noted that they did not fit real tight, so I removed them and shot a little glue on them, and they have been in place ever since. Thanks to you guys, I am a happy camper now!!!

Oven door must be removed briefly while old false bottom is slid out and replaced with new one. Oven door is easily replaced and oven is like new.

First I removed the 4 screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches. I removed the sensor and disconnected the connector.

Just like everyone else it was a simple r&r. However, when removing or installing wire clips I make it a habit to hold the ends with needle nose to prevent any: "snap!" ooops! However to prevent burning the element in the first place, it is strongly suggested to push that broil button twice so that it is set to low temp. It is too easy to use the high setting which will shorten the elements life by 40 - 60 %. Also, keep the oven door partially open when using the broiler. Like the manual tells you!!!

turned off power to oven; pulled out old bulb (unscrewed glass cover to access). Noted the direction of the electrical prongs when pulled bulb out... and inserted new bulb. Turned back on power to oven - bulb worked

Safety first * Unplugged 220 VAC from outlet. Removed shield cover screws with 1/4" hex nut driver (5 screws). Removed all 6 silver screws from terminal block with 1/4" nut driver, freeing all wires. Removed the green ground screw and ground bracket from center terminal. Cut away (using the drill) melted original terminal block plastic to access the 2 black 1/4" nuts holding original terminal block onto appliance. Discarded the original damaged terminal block. Attached the new terminal block, aligning the mounting holes and the terminal block the same way the original terminal block was lined up and re-used the black 1/4" nuts (original used because the replacement package did not include new black screws). I bought a new appliance cord, since the original cord overheated. Reattached all wires using the 6 new silver screws. Start with the middle terminal by attaching the appliance wires and the ground bracket. The ground must be attached to the bracket and the bracket bridges between the terminal block and the range body. Reattached shield cover. Plugged in appliance. Note: it doesn't matter which outside wire attaches to the outside terminals (both are hot), but the middle wire (neutral) must attach to the middle terminal. However, the ring terminal should be flush on the terminal block so you don't bend the ring.