JCS968BF3BB General Electric Range - Instructions

Shut the power off at the electric box.Disconnected coil from roof clips.Pulled wire connection from back wall. Disconnected wire clips, connected new unit.Clipped to roof and turned on" Working fine".

Followed the example picture on the part bag. Anyone could do this, incredibly easy. Took about 4 minutes to install both sides.

Followed directions from Rodney of Erath La. Directions were perfect and helped me to decide to under take this job. Job took a little longer spending some time to clean the glass top on both sides and around the counter top where it mounts. The actual repair time was quick and easy thanks to Rodney. Price of the part was reasonable and delivery got here quick. Will deal with parts select again! Carl from Florida

The actual repair was relatively easy but access to the area in the oven made it a little difficult. Just unscrew 5 screws with a nut driver, unplug the old element, plug in the new element and reinstall the 5 screws. The only thing that made this repair difficult was being able to reach the connectors where you plug in the new element. They are loose wire connectors that don't reach very far out of the element receptacle. It was difficult to hold the end of the connector and plug in the new element because the oven door is in your way. Maybe it is easier if you take the oven door off first?

Simply removed drawer and lined up the newsupports. Made sure the guide pin was lined up and installed with single screw

First of all, the sensor had the proper ohm reading...at ambient temperatures. I suspected the sensor because it would jump in large degree increments over 200°F. From what I read online, the only other part that would cause this was a faulty circuit board. I opted to try the $20 part first vs. the $200 part. It worked. One screw on the back top of the inside is all that holds the sensor in. Pull the wires out and you will find a quick-disconnect. New part had the same connector (thank you). Thread the wires back through the hole and replace the screw. Works like a champion (verified with an independent thermometer. That is all she wrote. I only wish I purchased two, since they don't last that long... 4 years...or so. I just bought the house built in 2007 and empty for a year... and it took 45 minutes to cook a pizza, and even then the bottom dough was light. A house without an oven is like a hot dog without mustard!

Followed directions that I found on the internet and it was easy to remove the old burner and replace it with the one I ordered from you. There was no problems at all.

Repair was very easy - less than a few minutes - just had to screw in 2 screws to the new drawer supports.

The age of the system resulted in the cook top being heavily stuck by food-stuff to the range surface. The result was a twisting of the top when breaking it free. It caused the cooktop (a $500+ part) to crack diagonally across the whole surface. Thus ended the quick do-it-yourself process, and out to buy a new range. Parts-select was very good about the return process of the un-used and un-opened burner element.

This was a wall mounted oven. Turned off breaker. Pulled panel off by removing 6 screws. Pulled connectors off old switch. Removed old switch. Just a friction fit. I used my jack knife to get it moving. Pushed in the new switch and connected wires. (just push on tabs) Put panel back together and turned on breaker. Done, easy.

The part arrived much sooner than I anticipated. The job was a little harder and took a little longer for me because I'm not good at repairing things. I usually have to call someone. However, I followed the step by step instructions that were provided both on the website and with the mailed item and had no problems. The instructions were clear and easy to follow. The tools needed were very basic - all of which I had on hand. If I could do it - anyone can.

Took about 15 minutes to take the old one off and put the new one on. Not difficult at all.

I was attempting to replace the broiler element on the oven, but I discovered that the wiring may be the actual problem. I suggest before you order parts for a broiler repair, that you test the wires to ensure that you have continuity. I will have to trace the wires back to the source (the other element works fine) and see if I can find the problem with the current. I will keep the broiler element I ordered until I can confirm that the old element works.

pull out defective seal with pliers clean area and press new seal into place making sure the spring clips on seal are completely inserted into door slots push ends of seal into holes in bottom of door

Turned off the power at the breaker. Then I lifted the cooktop by pressing up from the bottom, while my wife slid two boards over the recess. I lowered the cooktop onto the boards, removed 12 screws around the perimeter of the case and carefully lifted the glass top and placed it on a towel on the DR table. (remove the control knobs first) removed the wires leading to the infinite control, marking which color when where, removed the two screws holding the infinite control, and replaced the old with the new. Reattached the wires, replaced the cooktop, replaced the screws, held it up while my wife removed the boards and then carefully lowered the cooktop into the recess. Attached the knobs, flipped the breaker back on and turned control to hi. It worked!