JB900CD1CC General Electric Range - Instructions

I watched a video of a similar model to familiarize myself with the required steps needed. I opened the back and disconnected the power cord and ground wires connected to the removable socket I then removed the lightbulb and removable socket from the oven interior side. I then removed the defective light socket cup and replaced it with the part I purchased. After replacing the removable socket and lightbulb, the bracket holding the light cover functioned perfectly with the new light socket cup. Final steps were to reconnect the power and ground wires to the removable socket. I then replaced the back cover over the light socket cup area. One word of advise. Be very careful when removing and reconnecting the cables to the removable light socket.

Removed old switch, put metal jumper from old switch to new one and connected wires to the new one . Reinstalled. Works great.

unscrew and disconnect the old unit. Connect and screw in the new unit

PULL RANGE OUT FROM WALL & ALSO REMOVED OVEN DOOR BY SLIDING UP. WORKING FROM INSIDE OVEN & ALSO BEHIND I REPLACED PART . ALWAYS " UNPLUG " RANGE BEFORE YOU START.

The cooktop is just set in the counter with no fasteners. I shut off the power and lifted the unit out. Ten small screws held the top to the body. After removal, I took a picture to have a wiring reference. I disconnected five wires with push-on terminals, then removed two Tinnerman nuts with needle-nose pliers. The failed burner was free to remove. There were two mounting ears on the bottom of the burner at positions 12 and 48 as stamped on the bottom. I transferred the mounting ears to the new burner, one screw each. I then positioned the new burner and secured with the two Tinnerman nuts, replaced the five wires, screwed the top back on and slipped the unit into the counter. Done.

My friend's husband came over to help. I mentioned that after unscrewing the old bake assembly unit, we would have to capture the wires or they would slip into the back. Before he even had the screws undone, the wires did, indeed, slip into the back. He then removed the back panel and retrieved the wires, pushed them back through the insulation and clipped each of them onto the back assembly. However, the wire clips kept slipping off so he eventually had to criimp the clips to keep them tight on the ends of the bake assembly. That troubled me; what if in the future one of those clips comes loose while the oven is in use? Any suggestions on how to keep these connectors on tightly?

Remove the top back panel to expose the switch. Remove the switch knob & mounting bezel and then unscrew the 2 mounting screws from the front. Replace the wires one by one and follow the enclosed directions in the event that this is an upgrade for an older switch. Remount the switch from the front and replace the back panel.

Easy

Really easy even i could do it , it was a little fiddly and the wires disappeared into the back of the oven , i easily removed the rear panel and pushed the wires back thru and connected them , turned the breaker back on and sparks !!
removed the rear panel again in 2 mins and saw that the wires were touching the oven frame and had shorted out , it wasnt a problem moved them slightly, reconnected them to the element tightened them up , put breaker on and Done , took about 45 mins but i could of been done in 30 with a little more care in the beginning of the job EASY !

The repair went very well. The second repair comnt to remove the hinge screws was a good correction from the first description. I had to go to that parts diagram to realize that the the two metal sleaves were insulation spacers for the two top screws.

Got door off no problem used screw drive to release locks and lifted door off. Took 3 1//4 screws out the 2 3" long screws out to separate door half's took screws of hinges and then8 1/4 inch screws of sheet metal that covered window. Replaced window and reverse what I did taking apart. Still having trouble getting 1 hinge to connect to stove. Help would be appreciated.

First, my husband removed the two screws that hold in the element. Unfortunately, my GE Spectra oven had extremely short wires. That was the only thing that made it somewhat difficult. So, he pulled the element out as far as he safely could, replaced it with the new one. No problem! As I said, the only thing that made it difficult was the short wires supplied by GE. The part came from PartSelect.com with no problems. I would definitely use this website again to order parts.

The unit has two spring clips that hold it in place. Also two screws that hold the element to the clips. It comes apart ok but doesn't go back as easy. I didn't remove the top as there was room to work from under it.

My daughter held the top down against a wooden dowl i was using as a prop rod . My wife held the unit in place . I finally got the clips back on and the screws back in . Centered the unit , transfered the wires , and it works perfect . Only three people and 30 min.

Thank you PartSelect for all your help !!

First unplug the unit from the outlet. Then remove the rear cover, covering the electrical wires. Disconnect the hot /ground wires from the element leads. Then open the oven door and use the nut driver to remove the inner screws to release the bake element. Insert new element and replace all screws and electrical leads. You're all done!

First I unplugged the stove. Then I removed the two screws inside the oven to remove the heating element. For safety purposes I removed the back panel from the stove also to get a complete view of what I was getting into. That was just 5 more screws and the panel came off and exposed what the heating element was plugged into. Very easy to unplug and reconnect, install the back panel then install the two screws for the heating element and it works just fine.